stealth

Come on guys, everyone at this site drives a car that weighs about the same, 3300 to 3700 lbs. I can't find a slick that works for me and would like to know what slick the fast cars are using: MT 28x10.5-15W, or Hoosier or Goodyear, etc.

KTamez

Its not necessarily about the tire. Whats the suspension consist of? Torque Converter? Rear Gear? Power/Torque Peaks/Curves? Launch RPMs you've tried? Transmission?

There are way too many variables to just say put on Tire X and you should get traction.

Maybe the car needs to be calmed down on the launch. Let us know what ya got. Theres more to getting the car to hook then just tires, or even suspension.

stealth

T400 (2.48 low gear)
4500 stall
3.42 r/p
launch at ~3000 on transbrake
stock type suspension
QA1 front
AFCO Dbl Adj front
Spohn 4340 sway bar
Spohn torque arm

Z8'S

iTrader: (6)

Personally I think that you need to hit the tire ALOT harder than that!
At that rpm you are just getting the tire rolling instead of planting it.I have had a number of people try to launch a M6 and complain that it just spins , Well these guys are trying to launch at 2500-3500 rpm When they finally try much higher rpm's they are amazed that it sticks!
With my car we launch at 5700 rpm off the brake and it doesnt spin. I am running a 29x10 Hoosier Drag

Colonel

"Personally I think that you need to hit the tire ALOT harder than that!"

Perhaps you missed the "1300 rwtq, 925 rwhp (200 wet shot/15# boost) part of his sig?

Malicious

iTrader: (1)

Thats leaving with a helluva lotta torque =O

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

You need to run a wide tire.Personally,I think M/T are not that good,I love hoosiers.
You are making GOBS of torque.
What tires are you running?What pressure?
I think you should be hooking @ 3k because of the lower boost.Are you hitting the Nitrous on launch?
I think ARE is the only person running a W tire.(8.50's)

stealth

I have been running MT Drag 28x10.5-15W, w/14 psi. They worked good for the first few runs and then died. I understand that ARE is running the same size MT slick in the non-W, or soft sidewall.

I have been launching at 3000 and activating the NOS at 3500. I have a schnitz controller so I can bring the NOS in a any rate I want. The 4500 flash might be too much for my setup.

CHRISPY

ARE are running a NON "W" tire...

I think you might need a smaller converter. Say in the 3500-3800rpm range or so launching at around 3000-3500rpm off the brake.

What is your pinion angle? Do you have airbags in the rear? Spool in the car? How is track prep where you race? That makes a HUGE difference at your power level.

Cheers,
Chris

stealth

No, I'm runnin the MT Drag 28x10.5-15W tire, and I agree that 4500 is probably too much flash.

I have not tried air bags yet but the diff is spooled. Have tried various pinion angles. We are using a huge sway bar so the car does not twist. We just seem to overpower the tires.

The really frustrating aspect to the situation is that we just went through the motor, changed to 9/16 head studs, 8740 main studs, o-ring'd heads, receiver grooved block, etc., so can probably make 1200 rwhp now. I am a phone call away from mini-tubbing or back-halfing the car.

Colonel

I'm a Hoosier fan myself.

Weight distribution and suspension setup is key.

Guido

Dont do that!!

Call up madman

www.madmanandcoracing.com

He has the stock suspension cars hookin

KTamez

JMO, but you don't need more tire, just need a few tweaks to make the car work. The #1 item on a serious car at the strip is a Solid Rear sway Bar. Remember, you're dealing w/ (Putting flame suit on) a junk Single Ladder bar in the middle setup. Talk to any world class chassis builder, and the TA setup is a joke. Everything we throw at it is just a bandaid to "make it work".

That said you have alot of good parts, but the main thing I see is lack of a solid Rear Sway bar. Don't worry much about your pinion angle, that doesn't effect traction.
now your power/torque curves to make a true judgement on the converter, but I'd ***ume it s low rpm engine. Have any dyno graphs, preferrably on an engine dyno, but Chassis dyno would help too.

Also note that just as Chris (Z9s) said, it is possible that making the car launch HARDER will promote better traction. Every car and setup is different, so its just a matter of testing, testing and more Testing. Remember most of the cars at this level will never dead hook, all you're looking for is a controlled spin though.

Contact Jay Billingsley, Dan Wolfe, or Madman, and I'm sure they can help you get it sorted out.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I think that Znines' comment about planting the tires is getting lost.

I think the point he's making is that you never really hook the car it just keeps spinning.

I can also see that a 200 shot hitting at 3500 rpms is probably difficult to hook since you are hitting the car with a ton of torque but I would look beyond the tires as the culprit, it's probably a combo of chassis setup and maybe tuning the HP combo to work better off the line. I once saw a Stang grab 2 200 shot kits off the line, the rear tires practically exploded.

stealth

I'm using a 1 5/16" chrome moly rear sway bar and the car does not twist like it did before.

I will reprogram Schnitz to bring the NOS in gradually over the first few seconds. I also plan to call Billingsley on Monday to see if he can help.

I will change to either the soft version of the MT I'm using or the Hoosier, which I used last year on a car with less power.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Wade's car is running 28x10.5x15's I believe and he's hooking the car in the 1.3's.

I bet he's not running a lot of gear but he's hitting the tires with a lot of juice.

I know that some stangs run phat off the line to make them easier to hook, if they run leaner off the line the converter hits a ton harder.

stealth

Dave Diluca says Wade is running MT 28x10.5-15, non-W tire.

My car pulled both wheels and ran a 1.38 in Denver when my "W" tires were new.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Might want to have the spray come on later and then work it down.

Lots of folks have cut 1.4's and 1.3's without W tires which are illegal for a lot of racing classes, which is why Wade is not running them up there.

Z06PSI

iTrader: (33)

Wow.....my question is how do we get rid of the setup without back-halfing the car...????

mikey

iTrader: (6)

Can't speak for anyone else but I put the W's on when we were running the Nitrous 2 years ago. I'll switch to a true 10.5 sometime in the future but I spent alot of time tuning the suspension with the W and not too much motivation to do it again. End of last season, I cut a 1.29 60' with them. I may go to a 10.5 "S" to minimize the amount of chassis re-tune.