It is a open borla with the older style Kooks y pipe

 

Congrats man those are great numbers throught the drivetrain and listen to Ron he's the man.
put DHM Cutout in the y-pipe it will help for sure.

 

Hey Busa, if you still want to change intakes after you try everything else just let me know. I would try tuning it for race gas though and get a set of extensions made like cliff has on his car. I think the car makes damn good power and it is going to run great but i think there is more horsepower to be found with your set up. My car is a 423 w/ patriot stage 3 heads (11.75 to 1) , ported fast, 250/257 .628/.645 114 + 2 hyd roller, kooks 1 7/8~2 " headers w/ 3.5 merge, Texas speed true duals and my car made 540 rwhp and 497 rwtq through a 12 bolt w/ 4.10's, steel drive shaft on slicks. So i KNOW there is more power with your car to be found. good luck Charles

 

Thanks Charles. I appreciate the comments and the help.


Shawn

 

I reset the lash to .002-.004 cold. The compression for all cylinders was around 210 so there are no issues there. I have the video loading now. The quality is not great. It is raining out and the car was in the garage so a better video will come later. The exhaust is alot louder then the video. Maybe it will come across better after I am done loading it on to photobucket??

 

You guys can never accept dyno numbers for what they are. Always looking for a scape goat to say why some dyno numbers are low, oh its this, or oh its that, do this and i bet you will be xx amount better .. bullshit. Maybe they just seem low because your trying to compare it to a bunch of fake *** inflated dyno numbers thrown around on here like Jackson Pollocks paint.
That **** is strong man, you have real dyno numbers, and thats what counts.

 

VIDEO


http://s430.photobucket.com/albums/q...echeese011.flv

 

I dont think anyone intentionally wants to be a dick about commenting on the number. I for one think think that something is a tick off. That list of parts/compression/roller setup should make at the VERY least 580whp. I hope that its found. I would love to hear what the number does with a couple of header extension pipes. Throw the y-pipe in the garbage. I can tell you that I have a better 3"Y-4"I setup and it holds back my 416. And your 427 is trying to do alot more than my junk. Good luck with your efforts.

Brandon

 

I don't remember but, is your car speed density tuned? It looks like you still have a maf. There is some more power if your considering SD. SD is not recommended for climates that change a lot. Your interior is sweet. Love the gauges and looks of the interior.

 

Thanks guys. Brandon I agree with you as well. I was thinking 580 min, that is the number I have had in my head since I began the build and knowing the 9 inch would rob a bit but I still thought 580. I do think with the exhaust issue and race gas and some more timing it should easily do that. We will see here in a little bit.

 

It is not tuned for sd at the moment, that is something we could play with in the future.

 

Best of luck with everything. I know how you feel to want to get everything out of a motor. Why leave stones unturned ??

 

I too think something is off. I think overall the engine is being choked. Your heads are flowing around 350 cfm. A ported fast starts to kill that off roughly around 280ish cfm. I'd like to see some MAP sensor readings from your pulls.

I think the exhaust is giving you problems too. The cheapest option would to be dropping the exhaust, see what happens and go from there. The setup cliff has is nice. I think a nice merge like a flowmaster three to four inch would help a ton. You could put a four inch cutout right after that and I'm sure it would pick up.

 

Nice results. Wringing the last few out of it will take some 'spearminting'.

As stated before, the 'y' is def killing it. One thing to remember when looking at the MAP reading at WOT; an exhaust restriction will drop the Kpa. Get that fixed, or run it open header before worrying about the intake.

Where is the ICL? You may gain some up top by retarding it if it's in at 110.

Do you have flow numbers past .700?

Another JFYI, the graph is way too smooth for valve float. That **** shows up in the graph.

I also think there's bunch left in it with a high octane tune.

The way it just lays down is an airflow issue for sure. Get the 'y' off it, the maf and lid, tune it for SD, then let 'er eat. I could see another 30-40 with that combined with race gas and some timing.

 

Its always nice seeing one of the big names step in and offer advice, vs pointing out I'd have done this, that etc. I am sure your tips have pointed the OP in the right direction. We all appreciate ya. Keep up the good work.

 

The cam is a 110 +4. I do not have flow numbers past .700 I will have to get with LME and/or Trick Flow to be sure. I would like to play with the SD tune again with open headers and see what it likes. I am not real concerned with the intake just yet. I too feel there are some other things we can do to improve the setup. I really appreciate all your guys help.

 

I agree with Ed. Back the cam timing a little (to 110ICL) and run some higher octane fuel. Coach made best power on C12 with 30 degrees of timing at peak torque and 33 degrees at peak power. If you're only at 18 degrees, just think how much more you'd make with more octane and more timing.

 

i have a sheet metal intake on my car and i'm very happy with it on the street. I had a fast on mine and it choked the **** out of it, i switched to a sheet metal and it really woke up, i'm not sure on the actual gain because i changed a couple other things at the same time

your setup in no slouch though, that thing should be a blast to drive.


link to my dyno sheet and a video.

post 1 is dyno video
post 7 is the dyno sheet


https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...-608-rwhp.html

edit: just realized you posted in my thread.

 

I'd still love to see what she'd do with some race gas and more timing. That would tell you something and may point you in a direction.

 

Along with what Ed suggested, if you have E85 readily available, try a tank of that with MUCH more timing. LS7 heads usually make best power around 30-32 degrees timing.