New cam only dyno numbers
#22
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I noticed that as wel and i think its becasuse it gets the shafts and gears all slowed down and turning close to the same speed so they mesh better. but mine makes a load pop and shoots a nice flame as well.
#24
I had a pretty trick 2-step setup on my T/A. It used two relays to activate, step one was pushing in the clutch (clutch switch supplied +5v to relay system) then a momentary switch opened relay 1 which was tied into relay 2 to keep the system active. It worked in a fashion that once the clutch was released (clutch switch closed) it would deactivate the 2-step and wouldn't reactivate until both conditions were met again (clutch in plus momentary switch pressed).
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#mtc
In their diagram the "fused 12v+" is coming from the accessory block to one side of the clutch switch then into the relay setup. The momentary '(-) pulse' in their diagram was just a simple SPST grounded push button. Then going to the ignition box was their "Constant 12v(+) output" to activate the 2-step.
The only downside to this is I had to bridge the clutch safety switch leads to allow the car to start. So this would have allowed the car to start with the clutch out. You could setup another 'clutch switch' to keep the original in tact but I figured that I knew better than to crank the started without the clutch pressed in.
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#mtc
In their diagram the "fused 12v+" is coming from the accessory block to one side of the clutch switch then into the relay setup. The momentary '(-) pulse' in their diagram was just a simple SPST grounded push button. Then going to the ignition box was their "Constant 12v(+) output" to activate the 2-step.
The only downside to this is I had to bridge the clutch safety switch leads to allow the car to start. So this would have allowed the car to start with the clutch out. You could setup another 'clutch switch' to keep the original in tact but I figured that I knew better than to crank the started without the clutch pressed in.
#26
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I wouldn't rev it past 6600. That is valve float and you will break something with as violent a drop as that. If you are still using the Patriots, that is most likely the culprit. You are not reaching an airflow limit at that power level with a FAST intake. I've seen that curve many times and if you pull it past 6600 you will eventually break something until you get the problem corrected. I had the same problem on my personal car years back with a TRex. I tore up the tips of my valves shifting at 7200.
Shane
Shane
#29
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I agree with Shane, that is valve float. The kpa would have to drop to almost 90 for that much of a power decrease, and nothing in your intake tract would warrant that. What seat and open pressure are your springs you are running? Are they shimmed up? What rockers? I've played the valve float game a few times! Alot goes into it when you start turning one with an aggressive lobed stick.
#30
I wouldn't rev it past 6600. That is valve float and you will break something with as violent a drop as that. If you are still using the Patriots, that is most likely the culprit. You are not reaching an airflow limit at that power level with a FAST intake. I've seen that curve many times and if you pull it past 6600 you will eventually break something until you get the problem corrected. I had the same problem on my personal car years back with a TRex. I tore up the tips of my valves shifting at 7200.
Shane
Shane
I agree with Shane, that is valve float. The kpa would have to drop to almost 90 for that much of a power decrease, and nothing in your intake tract would warrant that. What seat and open pressure are your springs you are running? Are they shimmed up? What rockers? I've played the valve float game a few times! Alot goes into it when you start turning one with an aggressive lobed stick.
hate to see you smack a valve or wear your tips off them stems...
#31
Its the luntia spring kit, The retainer has a radius underside were my spring mic would fit. So I couldn't get it to settle right. But getto with calipers said 1.805ish installed (outer coil) I checked the springs when I got them (on a good digital spring gauge) but it was 6 months before and I couldn't find my notes were CB was. I only remembered I marked the 4 weakest ones I out them on a ext. But I haven't checked them now with the run time when they settled too. I should and see if I have room to shim them and tighten that up for any ocsaltion (sp?) harmonics.
Got the manton pushrods the other day, have a cold so haven't touched the car
Got the manton pushrods the other day, have a cold so haven't touched the car
#33
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Find out what height coil bind is and shim them within .050 of it. The Manton pushrods will help with any pushrod instability aslo. I don't think you have enough spring pressure though. The spring TEA runs on the Trick flow stuff is about as much as a stock lifter will tolerate. 160 seat and 450 open at 1.800. Spring Rate is important aslo. Comp has a new dual that is nice, PRC has a few different setups that are really nice, and the AFR 8019 is also more than capable. If a set of these doesn't control it, Ed needs to go back to the Spintron!
#34
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Find out what height coil bind is and shim them within .050 of it. The Manton pushrods will help with any pushrod instability aslo. I don't think you have enough spring pressure though. The spring TEA runs on the Trick flow stuff is about as much as a stock lifter will tolerate. 160 seat and 450 open at 1.800. Spring Rate is important aslo. Comp has a new dual that is nice, PRC has a few different setups that are really nice, and the AFR 8019 is also more than capable. If a set of these doesn't control it, Ed needs to go back to the Spintron!
Well said... Just don't go under .050" I like to say .060" so people don't get crazy... This isn't Pro Stock!
Shane
#35
Put the 11/32 matons in I got form shane.
Measured another new luntia spring kit I had dated form only a few months ago. There were noticeable different (size, and color). then the older kit I had on (same PN, but over a year ago date, springs were gold in color) I didnt have time to measure the pressure of the spring kit I had on my car before the shootout There installed tall at about 1.825, and would need a lot of shimns to get @ .05 CB. So much the seal would not seat over the guild.
The new Kit I dont remember the numbers right now, but they were more then other dual springs Ive tested. And I found my older patriot ti retainers (and big locks) fit the newer kit spring better then on older springs (why I didnt use them) And saved some weight. I think it was 16g for the patriot 21g for the luntia tool steel. And they installed closer at about 1.805. So I could tighten them up closed to CB with less shims. Got that done the day before leaving for Indy, didn't have time to dyno it. So jUst put the Prods in. But would like to do a back to back with normal 5/16 .08 set.
Got a new Et PB but not enough to move up on the cam only list, and the 60's are slow 1.49 1.52s I need new slicks. But it did go almost 130mph
129.89mph in a sunny warm day. I had heavy radials on the front and stock brakes, and suspension. Cars making some good power
Measured another new luntia spring kit I had dated form only a few months ago. There were noticeable different (size, and color). then the older kit I had on (same PN, but over a year ago date, springs were gold in color) I didnt have time to measure the pressure of the spring kit I had on my car before the shootout There installed tall at about 1.825, and would need a lot of shimns to get @ .05 CB. So much the seal would not seat over the guild.
The new Kit I dont remember the numbers right now, but they were more then other dual springs Ive tested. And I found my older patriot ti retainers (and big locks) fit the newer kit spring better then on older springs (why I didnt use them) And saved some weight. I think it was 16g for the patriot 21g for the luntia tool steel. And they installed closer at about 1.805. So I could tighten them up closed to CB with less shims. Got that done the day before leaving for Indy, didn't have time to dyno it. So jUst put the Prods in. But would like to do a back to back with normal 5/16 .08 set.
Got a new Et PB but not enough to move up on the cam only list, and the 60's are slow 1.49 1.52s I need new slicks. But it did go almost 130mph
129.89mph in a sunny warm day. I had heavy radials on the front and stock brakes, and suspension. Cars making some good power
#36
Numbers look promising bro. Get the valve train figured out, and stable. Get the car to transfer weight. Get some seat time and you will make it down the list. You are where I was a little bit ago. Get the 60's lined out. The ET will follow. I hope to be number 2 this weekend weather permitting. Made a few changes myself.
#39
No Problem bro.
I just got my new wheels and tires mounted on the car. Made it look more like a Race Car too. Made some changes to the suspension settings. Hoping to move up to #2 bare minimum this Saturday. After that is is on to pulling more weight out of the car.
Hopefully Tim Tosto will roll his car out and get in the hunt. The more the Merrier.
I just got my new wheels and tires mounted on the car. Made it look more like a Race Car too. Made some changes to the suspension settings. Hoping to move up to #2 bare minimum this Saturday. After that is is on to pulling more weight out of the car.
Hopefully Tim Tosto will roll his car out and get in the hunt. The more the Merrier.