More power, cam only setup
02-21-2012, 01:06 PM
#21
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Im not sure yet, I have to try some different things and see what if likes at the track. FYI with the streetsweeper cam I had before (236/240) I think it made peak power at 6500, and still made 420+ for a few hundred more rpm. You can look up the dyno graphs for the numbers. But it went faster with the shiftlight set at 6400. I moved it up like alot of people suggested but it went slower and lost MPH. Times in the sig, I had a ton of passes on that so I could try that.
So far went some 129's with this cam, best of 129.89 in the heat at indyLSX past year. I still had the shift light set kinda low still at 6400, because I didn't have time to dyno and see how it was over 6600rms. But it looks great now to shift higher so should go faster. Its still making about 440whp at 7K
I still want to add a vacum pump, that might be 10whp? Prop more like 7-8?
I can port my fast92 better, I just did it quick in maybe 30mins when I had it off testing intake a few years ago. I think going to a 102 or try the truck one too.
edit, Here is the dyno info when I 1st put this cam in and had it tuned.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...o-numbers.html
So far went some 129's with this cam, best of 129.89 in the heat at indyLSX past year. I still had the shift light set kinda low still at 6400, because I didn't have time to dyno and see how it was over 6600rms. But it looks great now to shift higher so should go faster. Its still making about 440whp at 7K
I still want to add a vacum pump, that might be 10whp? Prop more like 7-8?
I can port my fast92 better, I just did it quick in maybe 30mins when I had it off testing intake a few years ago. I think going to a 102 or try the truck one too.
edit, Here is the dyno info when I 1st put this cam in and had it tuned.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...o-numbers.html
I'm looking foward to see what you pickup from the vacuum pump.
02-21-2012, 01:48 PM
#22
Great example of a max effort setup with the right combination of parts. I see alot of people on here always stating "eh its not worth the x amount of power you'll gain" i always SMH when i read that, that obviously sets apart a properly running setup to an "okay" running setup. Good work!
02-22-2012, 12:33 PM
#24
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I've been following your threads for awhile, but never really noticed the MC in your sig pic. I could duplicate that shot with my cars. lol I just picked up a SOM 1994 (98-02 SS clone) and have a 4.3L TBI 86 MC too. It's so slow the 94 roller might outrun it.
Congrats on the awesome numbers. You just helped me decide not to spend money on a X pipe.
Congrats on the awesome numbers. You just helped me decide not to spend money on a X pipe.
02-23-2012, 01:38 PM
#27
For people Pm about this cam, I dont see it on the New Era site. But if you call them I'm sure you can get it. Lunati did it, but I dont have a PN you can just call them or summit and order it. The specs I'm not 100% sure on, the lobes are asymmetrical like ed was telling me. The front and the backside profiles are not the same. I remember waiting a little, ed had to check into it, to find who would do what he wanted. Comp couldn't IIRC. But the normal degree wheel isn't accurate to find centers or event,I think you have to have a digital cam doctor to profile the lobe. You can't just pick point like with a wheel, I tried and just got lost, lol 
I already flycut when I ran some ported heads with 58cc chambers. But put it in damaged mock up motor with a stock piston/rod/crank. It's really close PTV, it did turn over. But to close, I dont have my notes right here. I used light test spring, fixed solid stock lifter, and a indicator on the valve to map it fully. Around 10-12* I think?? was min PTV. Any other big cams that are close, and for the same basic layout any OHV engine dose. How the valve chases the piston opening and closing, not at max lift is the closest like people think. That and lift, its RIGHT on .383 every lobe. Stock rockers should be 1.70. But I found the more lift the more the difference of them being a cast body shows up. I bet some stocker guys know what mold and batch number rockers are more. But some are 1.70, some 1.68, some high 1.7x. This is with a solid lifter, lightweight test spring, and adjustable Prod set to zero. So you have some valve lifts .649 and some over .660, just a example. I didn't spend all the time to have the Prod locked with jam nuts, if they would fit even? Just unscrewed, to no lash installed under the tq stock rocker on the guild plate (with other rockers). And a running engine, is way different anyway.... Prod deflections, rocker deflections, heat. Anyway thats about all the real data I looked into.
I really liked the luntia cams, spec right on (lobe lift) Even other normal symmetrical big comps out there I've ran don't spec what the card says... 240/242, I get 241/244? Some Trexs are 250* ext. I really don't care that much into it, I'm not a cam guy. Ed dose that, and I just wanted LOL.... More power then I had with the streetsweeper and carry rpm more. With stock heads, and a FAST not have to rev it to 7500 and blow the motor up. Or need race valve train parts, that cost more then building a new motor would. And run good for a street driving all weather maff tune, I can just get in and drive. Mike is a really good tuner, not just doing LS1s. He told me a little about contracted for GM turning experiential fuels, and motor, drivetrain setups in this crazy secret huge money testing building they have local. I helped a little learning the VVT and DOD cams years ago when they 1st came out, so super lucky he can talk to ed about latest and greatest stuff.
He added some of the other lunati ones that came out recently, the voodoo, and the voodoo high lift ones I see the site. At .050 its about high 23X* intake lobe. The ext, is 24x* kinda like the, 60518 voodoo high lift,
286/290 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 235/239
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .651"/.651
LSA/ICL: 112/108 Valve Lash (Int/Exh):
RPM Range: 2400-7000 Includes: Cam Only
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.co...mart&Itemid=54
But I know the LSA should be tighter like the carb cams. That 60520 one?
http://www.lunatipower.com/Media/Doc...0LS%20Cams.pdf
I already flycut when I ran some ported heads with 58cc chambers. But put it in damaged mock up motor with a stock piston/rod/crank. It's really close PTV, it did turn over. But to close, I dont have my notes right here. I used light test spring, fixed solid stock lifter, and a indicator on the valve to map it fully. Around 10-12* I think?? was min PTV. Any other big cams that are close, and for the same basic layout any OHV engine dose. How the valve chases the piston opening and closing, not at max lift is the closest like people think. That and lift, its RIGHT on .383 every lobe. Stock rockers should be 1.70. But I found the more lift the more the difference of them being a cast body shows up. I bet some stocker guys know what mold and batch number rockers are more. But some are 1.70, some 1.68, some high 1.7x. This is with a solid lifter, lightweight test spring, and adjustable Prod set to zero. So you have some valve lifts .649 and some over .660, just a example. I didn't spend all the time to have the Prod locked with jam nuts, if they would fit even? Just unscrewed, to no lash installed under the tq stock rocker on the guild plate (with other rockers). And a running engine, is way different anyway.... Prod deflections, rocker deflections, heat. Anyway thats about all the real data I looked into.I really liked the luntia cams, spec right on (lobe lift) Even other normal symmetrical big comps out there I've ran don't spec what the card says... 240/242, I get 241/244? Some Trexs are 250* ext. I really don't care that much into it, I'm not a cam guy. Ed dose that, and I just wanted LOL.... More power then I had with the streetsweeper and carry rpm more. With stock heads, and a FAST not have to rev it to 7500 and blow the motor up. Or need race valve train parts, that cost more then building a new motor would. And run good for a street driving all weather maff tune, I can just get in and drive. Mike is a really good tuner, not just doing LS1s. He told me a little about contracted for GM turning experiential fuels, and motor, drivetrain setups in this crazy secret huge money testing building they have local. I helped a little learning the VVT and DOD cams years ago when they 1st came out, so super lucky he can talk to ed about latest and greatest stuff.
He added some of the other lunati ones that came out recently, the voodoo, and the voodoo high lift ones I see the site. At .050 its about high 23X* intake lobe. The ext, is 24x* kinda like the, 60518 voodoo high lift,
286/290 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 235/239
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .651"/.651
LSA/ICL: 112/108 Valve Lash (Int/Exh):
RPM Range: 2400-7000 Includes: Cam Only
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.co...mart&Itemid=54
But I know the LSA should be tighter like the carb cams. That 60520 one?
http://www.lunatipower.com/Media/Doc...0LS%20Cams.pdf
02-23-2012, 01:43 PM
#28
You'd be surprised what can be had from a stiffer (heavier) set of pushrods.
Here is a blurb from Manton's site:
source: http://www.mantonpushrods.com/Pushrod-Info.html
Here is a blurb from Manton's site:
source: http://www.mantonpushrods.com/Pushrod-Info.html
Ya, thats a great read. I've been told and learning valvetrain weights on the pushrod side don't matter that much. Its the valve side that dose.
02-24-2012, 02:42 PM
#32
ya Looks like I might have to get a 102 next, I can run that too for the AM worldcup too, and its OEM style for other classes.
Chris, this was my same parts, stock sealed airbox, sux2BU, paper filter, SLP lid (89-90mm outlet) GM truck maff (no screen) that 22* elbow for use, to the 92mm TB. Mikes told me and I saw the dyno pulls back to back on older setups like mine wen that new bigger lids came you they didn't gain anything, with the MAF and 92mm TB. But you cut your lid out I remeber bigger, whats maff and did you change to, and what did what?
Chris, this was my same parts, stock sealed airbox, sux2BU, paper filter, SLP lid (89-90mm outlet) GM truck maff (no screen) that 22* elbow for use, to the 92mm TB. Mikes told me and I saw the dyno pulls back to back on older setups like mine wen that new bigger lids came you they didn't gain anything, with the MAF and 92mm TB. But you cut your lid out I remeber bigger, whats maff and did you change to, and what did what?
02-24-2012, 08:26 PM
#35
Yeah you are exactly right Johnny little to no gain will be seen by switching the tb or descreened maf...the lid becomes the restriction...either 98-104mm FTP lids flow around the same size as a 85mm bellmouth...so to make use of the 102/102 setup you need to open up all restrictions to that size...even though the lid is called a 98mm or 102mm it necks down and is flattened out on the bottom side where it sits on the filter...
Long story short I gained 6rwhp going from a standard FTP 98mm lid to my custom 4" bellmouth lid on back to back pulls...both were done in SD tune and going through only my 92/92 setup...gains would be more on my 102/102 setup now
...
Also for what it is worth and squeezing out every last hp...try the XPR royal purple...worth a few hp too...alright no more leaking golden info haha jk
Long story short I gained 6rwhp going from a standard FTP 98mm lid to my custom 4" bellmouth lid on back to back pulls...both were done in SD tune and going through only my 92/92 setup...gains would be more on my 102/102 setup now
...Also for what it is worth and squeezing out every last hp...try the XPR royal purple...worth a few hp too
...alright no more leaking golden info haha jk 
02-25-2012, 02:09 PM
#37
At 7K the street sweeper was making 390whp thu the 2OTL, I never dynoed with the max power muffler exhaust setup this is. This new cam was making about 415 @7 (up 25) with the 2OTL, but this was not stable and months after. The current setup (max power muffler exhaust, better pushrods, lighter retainers) @7K is 435whp. That up 45whp
then the streetsweepers best.But its up a TON in the RPM range at the racetrack, gained RPMs.
I dont really care about looking into these paper numbers, Ive been more of making lots of track passes and tesing things. But its winter, looks like its over 420whp all the time now 5,500-7,200.
Yeah you are exactly right Johnny little to no gain will be seen by switching the tb or descreened maf...the lid becomes the restriction...either 98-104mm FTP lids flow around the same size as a 85mm bellmouth...so to make use of the 102/102 setup you need to open up all restrictions to that size...even though the lid is called a 98mm or 102mm it necks down and is flattened out on the bottom side where it sits on the filter...
Long story short I gained 6rwhp going from a standard FTP 98mm lid to my custom 4" bellmouth lid on back to back pulls...both were done in SD tune and going through only my 92/92 setup...gains would be more on my 102/102 setup now...
Also for what it is worth and squeezing out every last hp...try the XPR royal purple...worth a few hp too...alright no more leaking golden info haha jk
Long story short I gained 6rwhp going from a standard FTP 98mm lid to my custom 4" bellmouth lid on back to back pulls...both were done in SD tune and going through only my 92/92 setup...gains would be more on my 102/102 setup now
...Also for what it is worth and squeezing out every last hp...try the XPR royal purple...worth a few hp too
...alright no more leaking golden info haha jkhttp://www.neweraperformanceparts.co...d=49&Itemid=59
They CnC them alum, the shop makes them right there. I dont know if I can just have him weld one of those on a 10x mm alum tube, get the slot maf. If I can just plug into that and have him tube it with my 01 PCM, if it works like that. I don't know the new stuff that well, but looks the same and the other 10x maf?
I really want to keep a MAF and lid setup, I love just getting into the car and starting it. And not having to tune it, if its 90 outside or under 30 I drive it on clean roads.
I can get a SLP lid for like $100 new of a user one. I'm thinking I can do a long pie cut on the top of bottom of the neck. Heat gun/micro wave it, to re shape it spread it open more. So its 10x MM and plastic weld, or some good expoxy the pie-cut in. Ive seen some show guys make a SLP/blackwing lid that way, came out looking strong. I'm gona have to rasie the Next up for the LSXRT too
Or like you did run the tube in it, and I can have one of the inlet bellows welded on, and notched to fit like the OTR intake have.
1st pic is as cast lid. VV The 2nd hard to tell but is stretched open with the pie-cut added. you get the idea.
02-25-2012, 02:35 PM
#38
Not sure how to answer these, haha.
Its not a dumptruck, it's a lightwight 6speed car with 4.56 gears you can rev over 7K. From a stop I can let the clutch out slow, and get the car rolling without giving it any gas. If I had stock gears and the car was 3700 that woud suck to do. Most of the time I use some throttle anyway because then your "cruising" ? at the 900 rpm idle and it will pull - rump,rump,rump, with the cam lobe, but not stall or anything. Not the 2Krpm 6th gear bucking a 240-250 cam dose, I dont know why you would do that to be under 2,500 rpms anyway. You lean that the 1st time driving a big cam car.
Once it moving even 1mph 900rpm, going WOT its gona spin the tires bad. It will anytime in 1st 2nd and bonce off the limiter, even 3rd when the roads are cold on DRs. If you want to be a ricer haha. A rolling 4th pull from 4K up is will spin a little, but still pulls hard. Never really tested to see under that (3500) I have another gear to drop into, with the powerband to pull over 6500-7000 at use.
This is the only data I have for LOW RPM on this cam, I dont know if its good or not, lol looks like about 300wtq at 3K rpms
looks like about 300wtq at 3K rpms 270wtq at 2700, I would guess 250 @2500?
Last edited by studderin; 02-25-2012 at 02:42 PM.
