2002 WS6, M6 w/ AI Dart/RHS Heads and Tick Cam
#44
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First thing I would do is upgrade the intake system. The stock throttle body isn't helping you at all. Going to 1 7/8" longtubes will help you out seeing you're running true duals. I don't know much about the cam but your heads are capable of making good power with the right supporting mods. I went through this all last year with my build not making good power. I got rid of the BBK SSI intake and 85mm TB for a fast 92mm set up and had it retuned by Phil Smith after a shitty mail order tune from TSP. My car went from 390 rwhp to 426 rwhp with the stock maf. It made 443 with the stock maf in removed.
#45
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I agree with the headers. I will get a set of the 1 7/8 headers and ditch these smaller ones I have. It's the 2.5 inch collectors that's hurting me more than them being 1 3/4. As far as intake and TB goes, I will upgrade to a FAST setup, but it will be down the road. For right now, the focus is on the nitrous setup and install and as I get more money through my side business then I'll adress the intake/TB.
#46
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I agree with the headers. I will get a set of the 1 7/8 headers and ditch these smaller ones I have. It's the 2.5 inch collectors that's hurting me more than them being 1 3/4. As far as intake and TB goes, I will upgrade to a FAST setup, but it will be down the road. For right now, the focus is on the nitrous setup and install and as I get more money through my side business then I'll adress the intake/TB.
#47
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I'll be using the Leash single stage nitrous board to simplify the wiring process. I've also got a custom switch panel that has nitrous arm, purge, heater, bottle opener. The purge and arm wire right to the Leash board and the heater wires up to the heater and the opener wires up to the opener. The Leas nitrous board contains a built in relay. I'll also get a fuse block to mount in the glove box next to the Leash board so I can draw my 12v+ power from it. Leash provided me with a wiring diagram to use, which is pretty simple to follow.
#48
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I'll be using the Leash single stage nitrous board to simplify the wiring process. I've also got a custom switch panel that has nitrous arm, purge, heater, bottle opener. The purge and arm wire right to the Leash board and the heater wires up to the heater and the opener wires up to the opener. The Leas nitrous board contains a built in relay. I'll also get a fuse block to mount in the glove box next to the Leash board so I can draw my 12v+ power from it. Leash provided me with a wiring diagram to use, which is pretty simple to follow.
What did u tie ur fuse block to get ur 12v power from
Cause im def gonna go the route u went then tying wires everywhere like I've seen on other peoples setup.. I'm also new to this
#50
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I have not got the fuse block yet. The Big Dog fuse block from Leash is sold out, but they should have more in by the end of the week. I'm really not sure where I'll pull the 12v power from. I was under tbe assumption that the fuse block hooks up to the battery so when the key is turned, it will have power. I could be wrong though. Maybe others will chime in. I still need to do a lot more research.
#53
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No track times yet. Tune will be looked at before any WOT or track runs. If the wideband is correct, it's too lean and I don't want to blow it up. The turbo bug has bit me, so I'll likely be selling off all this stuff in lue of a turbo build. Before I do that, I will have the tune tweaked.
#56
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#57
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heres my results with the same cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...uild-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...uild-pics.html