464 rwhp with a 224 cam and tsp 5.3 heads (Track update)
#64
hooking the car lowers et and raises mph as well... Its incredibly simple if you think about it... if you are spinning you are not using the power of the engine to increase your speed through contact with the pavement... for every inch of that 1/4 mile that you are not directly hooked to the ground you are loosing mph... and if you are taking naps between shifts you are also loosing time that could be gaining mph... that is why a car with dct vs one without will always mph higher if power levels and everything else are equal... if your seriously gonna argue against that you have not given it much thought at all
#65
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hooking the car lowers et and raises mph as well... Its incredibly simple if you think about it... if you are spinning you are not using the power of the engine to increase your speed through contact with the pavement... for every inch of that 1/4 mile that you are not directly hooked to the ground you are loosing mph... and if you are taking naps between shifts you are also loosing time that could be gaining mph... that is why a car with dct vs one without will always mph higher if power levels and everything else are equal... if your seriously gonna argue against that you have not given it much thought at all
Dead hook a car, MPH goes down along with ET. It's a known quantity, to everyone but you.
A bit of wheel spin means a better trap speed and a higher ET.
Carry on, you are wrong. Are you trying to prove you are smarter, or have you actually made a 1000 passes like I have down a drag strip?
Look at his timeslips, when the 60 foot significantly drops, so does his MPH.
I can't explain the physics of it, I just know it does what it does.
EDIT MPH is not calculated across the entire length of the track, only the last 60 or so feet I think...beam to beam.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 11-12-2014 at 09:50 PM.
#66
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Not saying specifically he lost 7 mph due to driving but you can see a significant difference in mph in a stick vette between drivers in the same car same day.
I have seen this many times.
You don't always get lower mph when you hook.
You can sometimes get a false high mph when you spin bad.
I have seen this many times.
You don't always get lower mph when you hook.
You can sometimes get a false high mph when you spin bad.
#67
Dead hook a car, MPH goes down along with ET. It's a known quantity, to everyone but you.
A bit of wheel spin means a better trap speed and a higher ET.
Carry on, you are wrong. Are you trying to prove you are smarter, or have you actually made a 1000 passes like I have down a drag strip?
Look at his timeslips, when the 60 foot significantly drops, so does his MPH.
I can't explain the physics of it, I just know it does what it does.
A bit of wheel spin means a better trap speed and a higher ET.
Carry on, you are wrong. Are you trying to prove you are smarter, or have you actually made a 1000 passes like I have down a drag strip?
Look at his timeslips, when the 60 foot significantly drops, so does his MPH.
I can't explain the physics of it, I just know it does what it does.
#68
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You should be trapping mid 120's or better with 464whp in good air. But remember alot has to do with driver experience and how/where you are shifting. Ideally you want to shift several hundred rpms above peak hp. You have to rev these motors to get them to really perform. But I understand that sometimes you can't for safety of the motor. It's not all about peak hp but power under the curve and your ability to apply that power to the track on a given day. So maybe your dyno numbers are a little high but you still need seat time to get it to perform. I'd make sure everything is mechanically sound and get back to the track. 10-20 hp here or there isn't going to make or break you. Make sure you have a good drag radial and pm me if you need launch tips or just ask.
I have the texas speed .675 eht springs.
#71
My 460whp c5 went low 11s, high 10s at mid 120s.
Also. On a drag radial with 1.8 60ft a would only trap 121 mph. Put a bias ply and 60 ft dropped to low 1.5s along with mph increasing to 126mph. There's too many variables to say what "will" happen. But spinning, in theory, definitely will cause lower trap speeds for reasons mentioned above. Acceleration is increase in rate of speed. If you're spinning the vehicle isn't accelerating as fast as it is if it's hooking
Also. On a drag radial with 1.8 60ft a would only trap 121 mph. Put a bias ply and 60 ft dropped to low 1.5s along with mph increasing to 126mph. There's too many variables to say what "will" happen. But spinning, in theory, definitely will cause lower trap speeds for reasons mentioned above. Acceleration is increase in rate of speed. If you're spinning the vehicle isn't accelerating as fast as it is if it's hooking
#72
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In my experience just a little spin will raise MPH. If I blow the tires off to hell and back it loses MPH and if I lift to make it stick it loses MPH.
My highest MPH ever was on a slightly hazing the tires 1.8x 60ft. It ran 1mph faster than the passes it hooked at 1.68-1.72.
My highest MPH ever was on a slightly hazing the tires 1.8x 60ft. It ran 1mph faster than the passes it hooked at 1.68-1.72.
#73
In my experience just a little spin will raise MPH. If I blow the tires off to hell and back it loses MPH and if I lift to make it stick it loses MPH.
My highest MPH ever was on a slightly hazing the tires 1.8x 60ft. It ran 1mph faster than the passes it hooked at 1.68-1.72.
My highest MPH ever was on a slightly hazing the tires 1.8x 60ft. It ran 1mph faster than the passes it hooked at 1.68-1.72.
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I don't have much track experience in a six speed car at all. I know I need a lot of work on the launch but I don't think my shifting is bad but I'm no Ranger. HP peaks at 6200 and I try to shift around 6500. I would need to data log it to see where I actually am hitting them though. I know I wasn't making 464 on the night of the runs but I do think it had to be close to it at the of the dyno tune. I think that because my friend had his six speed C5 tuned the same day I did by the same guy and he put down 385 rwhp with a 231/238 cam with bolt-ons and an ls6 intake and 488 with a 100 shot. I'm on a 305/35/18 mickey thompson so I have the tire I just need to work on the launch and figure out what the issue is with my car.
I have the texas speed .675 eht springs.
I have the texas speed .675 eht springs.
You should have a shift light that is set 2-300 rpms below the limiter.
I'd air that tire up to over 20psi and do a nice full burnout. Maybe try a 4000 rpm launch and see what happens. Keep raising launch rpm slowly( 200 rpms at a time until you start to spin) and your 60' should be decent by then.
As long as your car is mechanically sound and you can confirm that, then don't get caught up in the dyno numbers. You have a 10 second car if you can figure out how to launch it, and drive it down the track applying all the power to the ground.
You will need a good burnout which should put you in the 1.5x-1.6x range and shift it high in the rpm band. A lot to learn but seat time is your friend.
You can shoot me a pm anytime you have questions about 1/4 mile stuff. That goes for anyone on here.
#77
Cam and intake vs. Cubic Inches
We have tried every cam combo from the 224 to the MS4. Due to the limits of a 346 a larger intake then the 90 is a waste of money. The 102 may make a higher peak HP at max rpm, but will loose most of the TQ across the broadband. Most F Body's are heavy so they will benefit from increased TQ vs horsepower. The number 468 seams a bit high to me, but depending on how the dyno was calibrated there can be up to a 15% variance on every dyno. A lot of shops try to sell themselves based on high hp levels for next to no modifications done on the car. For the car to trap at 120 is actually accurate given the mods to the motor. The sixty foot times were high and if they could get dropped into the 1.6 range, I see no reason for that combo not to run into the mid 11's. We have tried several aftermarked heads on a stock block and have only picked up about 10 hp over well ported stock heads.
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We have tried every cam combo from the 224 to the MS4. [B]Due to the limits of a 346 a larger intake then the 90 is a waste of money. The 102 may make a higher peak HP at max rpm, but will loose most of the TQ across the broadband. [\b]Most F Body's are heavy so they will benefit from increased TQ vs horsepower. The number 468 seams a bit high to me, but depending on how the dyno was calibrated there can be up to a 15% variance on every dyno. A lot of shops try to sell themselves based on high hp levels for next to no modifications done on the car. For the car to trap at 120 is actually accurate given the mods to the motor. The sixty foot times were high and if they could get dropped into the 1.6 range, I see no reason for that combo not to run into the mid 11's. We have tried several aftermarked heads on a stock block and have only picked up about 10 hp over well ported stock heads.
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We have tried every cam combo from the 224 to the MS4. Due to the limits of a 346 a larger intake then the 90 is a waste of money. The 102 may make a higher peak HP at max rpm, but will loose most of the TQ across the broadband. Most F Body's are heavy so they will benefit from increased TQ vs horsepower. The number 468 seams a bit high to me, but depending on how the dyno was calibrated there can be up to a 15% variance on every dyno. A lot of shops try to sell themselves based on high hp levels for next to no modifications done on the car. For the car to trap at 120 is actually accurate given the mods to the motor. The sixty foot times were high and if they could get dropped into the 1.6 range, I see no reason for that combo not to run into the mid 11's. We have tried several aftermarked heads on a stock block and have only picked up about 10 hp over well ported stock heads.
Last edited by mchdg86; 11-16-2014 at 09:04 PM.
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Dead hook a car, MPH goes down along with ET. It's a known quantity, to everyone but you.
Look at his timeslips, when the 60 foot significantly drops, so does his MPH.
I can't explain the physics of it, I just know it does what it does.
EDIT MPH is not calculated across the entire length of the track, only the last 60 or so feet I think...beam to beam.
Look at his timeslips, when the 60 foot significantly drops, so does his MPH.
I can't explain the physics of it, I just know it does what it does.
EDIT MPH is not calculated across the entire length of the track, only the last 60 or so feet I think...beam to beam.
If you hook and the car does not bog the mph will go up not down. Bogging is where you loose mph not hooking. There is a difference but it shouldn't need to be explained.
His 60' in the video was horrible with bog, wheel hop and more bog, watch his video to see. You aren't the only one with drag strip experiences and I bet Rob has made more passes than all of us combined.
My Vette would lose a tenth and over 1 mph from a slight bog and I'm talking like .04 in the 60' causing this loss. His car is more than capable of 1.6 60's and if he drove it hard 1.5 60's and I guarantee based on what I saw in his video 3-4mph in the 1/8th mile with a lower 60'. There are a lot of variables to take into account than just hooking drops mph etc.
My first time out with my setup I only went 93mph. Next time out 97mph and next time out 101mph. Only 1/8th mile tracks were local so thats all I can compare. You know what also dropped substantially? My 60's and ET's. 7.4's, 7.20's, 7.0's all do to better driving and better launches. With your logic my mph should have went down since my ET's and 60's dropped. This was all within a 3 week span as well so the DA wasn't the culprit.
Last edited by blu1; 11-17-2014 at 06:49 AM.