mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

It will be about a year and a half before I can get the blower so I'll have plenty of time to run with the current setup. I'll try to remember to data log the runs so I can see exactly what I'm doing and get video from outside the car.

blu1

I would get a bias ply ET Street before going back out. Those MT Drag radials just aren't going to cut it for a hard launch.

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

Can I run a raidial tire on the front with those tires or do I need to run a bias ply up front also?

blu1

I ran a 275 street tire up front for about 40 passes and got squirrely twice around the 1/8th mile. I would recommend some skinnies with M&H front runners if you want the best setup. You can source some GTO spares and bore out the hub slightly and swap the tires for the most economical setups as well as one of the lighter ones. I ran that setup before I got my CCW's, they look funny without spacers but they work great!

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

3.42...yikes. Simple solution = a lot more power and 150mph traps. When I had 3.42s, I was still in first gear at 63mph. As for staying low in RPM...ARP or Katech rod-bolts are cheap and easy insurance. Also, if you're not willing to turn the RPM to get the big power numbers, don't waste any more money on heads.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Going with a blower? Then by all means run a much larger head with bigger chambers and really good flowing exhaust. Also, don't run a stock cam...that's silly. Run a blower specific cam with a wide LSA, plenty of intake duration and lift and a heapload of exhaust duration. Don't make the blower do all the work!

Goosecaddy05

yeah 3.42 on the m12 is gonna kill you on the 3-4 shift... needs 4.10 with that gearbox... a better setup would be the m6 with 3.42 if he wants to hit 124 in 3rd, but that takes 7k... other option if he doesnt want to spin high would be the m6 with 3.90... for my v i'm going with a rpm m6 with 3.73... will be perfect for my future goals

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

You only ran out to the 1/8 right?

I'm going with stock GM 317 heads. They are an LS6 head with a 72 cc combustion chamber. I probably will get an aftermarket cam since people think the 02+ LS6 cam is made of gold and I'm kind of leery of running a used cam anyway. Though it will more than likely be a small cam until I get a forged bottom end and can rev to 7000+ rpms. The bower won't be working very hard to make the power I'm comfortable with on a stock bottom end.

I would like to get a C6 Z06 tr6060 someday but there are things I want to do first. I would love to go to 3.73 gears but for some reason no one makes an aftermarket gear for the C6 Z06 rear end.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

I have a pair of 317s off my LQ4 sitting in the corner of my garage. They're in good shape except for one accessory bolt hole that was ripped out when some moron tried to use it was a lift point. They're boxed and ready to go, good seals, all valves, no springs...PM me a price.

And yes, get a different cam than the one you have or the stock Zo6 if you're going to run a blower.

blu1

Yes that is all I ran with the street tires up front. I would highly recommend getting skinnies up front when running bias plys. I was only going around 85-90 when it happened but sashaying/tracking of the rear end going that fast isn't very fun. I stayed in it because it was a 7.0 race and I was ahead but it was just about at that point where I needed to lift and let it correct itself.

I would recommend spending the small amount of money and doing the rod bolts. I did on mine and had my limiter set at 7400 although my shift points were between 7100-7200. I probably had 200+ passes and never had any motor issues revving that high but I also did a nice PAC beehive and comp titanium retainers to lighten up the valve-train to help prevent valve float. I had some nasty valve float running those RPM's with the heavy Patriot dual valve spring kit.

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the offer but I've already got a set of 317s sitting in my garage. I think I'm pretty set on a stock 02 ls6 cam until I forget the bottom end.

I'd love to get a drag pack with some bias plies but that's a lot of money for a set up that I'd only use three or four times a year. What about the 315/30/17 hoosier dr?

vetteboy2k

iTrader: (5)

For your current setup Id go short and narrower.

blu1

I would shy away from drag radials unless you are making a ton of runs on well prepped track, I would also go shorter than stock to help a little with gearing (they will hook with the right launch technique and track prep). They can lead to wheel hop and can break a ton of crap in the process. I would recommend the MT's which are cheaper and find some GTO spares. You might be lucky and get the setup already with front runners on them for about $300-350. Small price to pay for the gains you will see from the setup IMO.

squalor

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to bump a 5 month old thread but I have questions for mchdg86.
With everybody talking about your trap and peak HP, nobody asked how it cruised. Were you able to go through a parking lot at 1000 rpm without it bucking ? What RPM did the power seem to kick in. No mater how generous the dyno was, the graph looked like it could make torque early and have a broad power band.
If you go FI, what are you going to do with your 224/230 ? dibs ?

jleews6

iTrader: (2)

I didnt read the whole thread but from what I watched in the video you can hear why you MPH is down. Listen to it drag the motor down out of the powerband when you shift into high gear. It probably drops down to 4500 witch is probably close to 130 HP down from peak.

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

It bucks a bit in first gear under 1500 RPMs but everywhere in second and above is fine. It really comes alive at 4500 but it's still strong from about 3000 and up. I ended up buying a nitrous kit. It's a lot cheaper and easier to install lol. So I'll probably end up keeping the cam until stock bottom end either gives up or I replace it with a stroker.

That is a lovely side effect of the mn12 gearing. Every shift drops to 4500 shifting at 6500 RPMs. 1-3 isn't bad but the shift to 4th sucks lol. I so badly want to go back to the stock 2.66 first gear ratios.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

You also bogged the car out of the hole which lost all of its momentum. Meaning that pass was worthless for forming any kind of opinion on the performance of the car...still not bad for your first outing. I say the car has 123-124mph with a clean launch and hitting the shifts.

Goosecaddy05

Hey man i was just wondering how many miles you have on your springs? I think i read that they were the prc .675 ones? I've got the same ones on my heads

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

Yes they were the prc .675 springs. I put around 15k miles on them.

Goosecaddy05

Ok thanks, I'm going to check mine once i get to 15k. Hopefully thy are still in spec. There have been a few cases of them breaking really soon at around 10k. Its strange since they advertise them to have a life of 2.5 times as much as the average. I had patriot golds on a XE-R lobed cam for 20K with no probs before i sold the motor. But i highly doubt they will go 40k with my current cam even if my lobes are milder LSL intake and XE exhaust