TEA Stg. 2.5 LS6 heads/G5X3 cam makes 447rwhp/400rwtq today
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Originally Posted by Damian
No offense to you Verbs, or TEA but those #'s are very low considering the 2.5 LS6 head and that size cam along with the LSX. Even through a 12 bolt you should be knocking down 450-460 rwhp easily considering the mods done.
Sorry, just call 'em like I see 'em.
Sorry, just call 'em like I see 'em.
We all lose 10-15rwhp in Phoenix just from dynoing in 100 degree weather.
If I were to do something as simple as dyno in the winter and put on lighter 17x9.5 wheels, I guarantee I'd be dynoing around 470rwhp/420rwtq. Would you still be telling me my numbers are low? My wheel/tire combo is rediculously heavy. I don't think the 78mm LSX is a real power mod like you are making it out to be. How many people actually gained noticable power going from an LS6 intake to a 78mm LSX? If I had a 90mm LSX manifold then sure.
I'n not disappointed in the slightest. I could easily set the car up to be a dyno queen, slap on a 90mm intake, smaller wheels, dyno in winter, add an electric water pump, run 32 degrees of timing, put my aluminum flywheel and lighter driveshaft back on and probably be knocking on the door of 500rwhp through a 12 bolt. But I don't care to make dyno numbers as my car is no longer setup to be a street racer....it's setup for the track.
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Last edited by verbs; 09-17-2004 at 08:52 AM.
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
I know the CF aren't fully accurate, but do your dyno reported numbers reflect the SAE correction factor? What were the uncorrected numbers?
Strong combo. some forged motors seem to make a few ponies less too.
Strong combo. some forged motors seem to make a few ponies less too.
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I would NOT spray the motor below 3000rpm on the dyno. I would have the window switch at 3500-6300rpm depending on how high you want to rev out.
Hitting the bottle at 2000rpm is a bad idea
Chris
Hitting the bottle at 2000rpm is a bad idea
Chris
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Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
I would NOT spray the motor below 3000rpm on the dyno. I would have the window switch at 3500-6300rpm depending on how high you want to rev out.
Hitting the bottle at 2000rpm is a bad idea
Chris
Hitting the bottle at 2000rpm is a bad idea
Chris
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Originally Posted by Damian
No offense to you Verbs, or TEA but those #'s are very low considering the 2.5 LS6 head and that size cam along with the LSX. Even through a 12 bolt you should be knocking down 450-460 rwhp easily considering the mods done.
Sorry, just call 'em like I see 'em.
Sorry, just call 'em like I see 'em.
Man you must be blind then. Because theres alot more to it than you picked up on...... those are great #'s for the setup considering all factors...
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Originally Posted by C4VetteLS1
Man you must be blind then. Because theres alot more to it than you picked up on...... those are great #'s for the setup considering all factors...
Just stating the obvious. 447 is low for a 2.5 LS6 head and giant cam like that, 18's don't make that big of a damn difference over 17's.
Personally Verbs I think you should try swapping cams. No offense to LG, this is more of a formulation suggestion. I've done some of my own R&D lately and found that TEA heads like less of a split and/or single pattern cams over big huge splits. I think you'd make more HP and a ton more TQ tightening up the Duration & LSA a bit. It will raise your cylinder pressure also....Something to think about..
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Originally Posted by Damian
Im not blind. I see cars like his all the time with drag race drivetrains make equal (or a little less) power with 5.3L heads and small 228-232ish cams.
Just stating the obvious. 447 is low for a 2.5 LS6 head and giant cam like that, 18's don't make that big of a damn difference over 17's.
Personally Verbs I think you should try swapping cams. No offense to LG, this is more of a formulation suggestion. I've done some of my own R&D lately and found that TEA heads like less of a split and/or single pattern cams over big huge splits. I think you'd make more HP and a ton more TQ tightening up the Duration & LSA a bit. It will raise your cylinder pressure also....Something to think about..
Just stating the obvious. 447 is low for a 2.5 LS6 head and giant cam like that, 18's don't make that big of a damn difference over 17's.
Personally Verbs I think you should try swapping cams. No offense to LG, this is more of a formulation suggestion. I've done some of my own R&D lately and found that TEA heads like less of a split and/or single pattern cams over big huge splits. I think you'd make more HP and a ton more TQ tightening up the Duration & LSA a bit. It will raise your cylinder pressure also....Something to think about..
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I agree TEA heads like smaller splits, but nitrous seems to like bigger ones. I will be doing a lot of playing around with cams down the road anyway.
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So the correction factor increased the result 27hp ? That doesn't make any sense given how hot it was ... it would seem the other way around. I think the correction factors are at least roughly accurate so don't see why cooler weather is going to help you hit a bigger #.
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Originally Posted by jrp
i think what this really shows is how potent your old setup was.
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Originally Posted by Sunset01
So the correction factor increased the result 27hp ? That doesn't make any sense given how hot it was ... it would seem the other way around. I think the correction factors are at least roughly accurate so don't see why cooler weather is going to help you hit a bigger #.
Cooler weather always yields better dyno results than 100 degree weather, period. EVERYONE in Phoenix loses 10-15rwhp in the summer compared to winter. I've witnessed this happen on hundreds of cars for years.
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Originally Posted by verbs
I see where you're coming from, but again, after reading all the factors I listed above I figured we'd be on the same page.
We all lose 10-15rwhp in Phoenix just from dynoing in 100 degree weather.
If I were to do something as simple as dyno in the winter and put on lighter 17x9.5 wheels, I guarantee I'd be dynoing around 470rwhp/420rwtq. Would you still be telling me my numbers are low? My wheel/tire combo is rediculously heavy. I don't think the 78mm LSX is a real power mod like you are making it out to be. How many people actually gained noticable power going from an LS6 intake to a 78mm LSX? If I had a 90mm LSX manifold then sure.
I'n not disappointed in the slightest. I could easily set the car up to be a dyno queen, slap on a 90mm intake, smaller wheels, dyno in winter, add an electric water pump, run 32 degrees of timing, put my aluminum flywheel and lighter driveshaft back on and probably be knocking on the door of 500rwhp through a 12 bolt. But I don't care to make dyno numbers as my car is no longer setup to be a street racer....it's setup for the track.![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
We all lose 10-15rwhp in Phoenix just from dynoing in 100 degree weather.
If I were to do something as simple as dyno in the winter and put on lighter 17x9.5 wheels, I guarantee I'd be dynoing around 470rwhp/420rwtq. Would you still be telling me my numbers are low? My wheel/tire combo is rediculously heavy. I don't think the 78mm LSX is a real power mod like you are making it out to be. How many people actually gained noticable power going from an LS6 intake to a 78mm LSX? If I had a 90mm LSX manifold then sure.
I'n not disappointed in the slightest. I could easily set the car up to be a dyno queen, slap on a 90mm intake, smaller wheels, dyno in winter, add an electric water pump, run 32 degrees of timing, put my aluminum flywheel and lighter driveshaft back on and probably be knocking on the door of 500rwhp through a 12 bolt. But I don't care to make dyno numbers as my car is no longer setup to be a street racer....it's setup for the track.
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
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Sorry, my bad, brain was in reverse. 420 uncorrected makes sense in 100 deg. I know cooler weather makes better uncorrected #s.
Originally Posted by verbs
Very hot weather makes your uncorrected dyno #'s much worse than corrected. You are implyng that 100 degree weather should make me have better numbers than 70 degree weather....ask yourself this- why does every one run much faster times at the track in cooler weather than hotter weather? They're making more power.
Cooler weather always yields better dyno results than 100 degree weather, period. EVERYONE in Phoenix loses 10-15rwhp in the summer compared to winter. I've witnessed this happen on hundreds of cars for years.
Cooler weather always yields better dyno results than 100 degree weather, period. EVERYONE in Phoenix loses 10-15rwhp in the summer compared to winter. I've witnessed this happen on hundreds of cars for years.
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I don't know if I quite agree on the numbers being off, but I will agree with Damian on the split of the camshaft. The TEA heads with a nitrous port flow extremly better than almost all of the heads on the market. You have to take that into consideration when getting a cam with a larger split. If you were using other peoples heads with less exaust flow, then yes, the cam would help, espeacially on the juice, BUT, you made up the diffrence with the heads this time, so there would be no need to make up for it with the cam also. I think it will work, but I believe you are way over kill on the exaust. My set-up with the same heads will be mateed with a cam with 4 degrees of split for a nitrous friendly set-up. If I were going straight motor with these heads, I'd use 0* to 2* of split. It's my personal opinion that your Intake/exaust ratio, assuming the heads and cam, is in the upper 80's, prolly closer to 90%, which I believe would hurt more than help. JMHO from someone runnig a similar set-up.
On the weather note, hot humid air is less dense, thus allowing less air per cubic foot into the engine. When it is cold, there is more air per cubic foot getting into the engine, thus making more power, no matter what the correction factor. I think that's right.
On the weather note, hot humid air is less dense, thus allowing less air per cubic foot into the engine. When it is cold, there is more air per cubic foot getting into the engine, thus making more power, no matter what the correction factor. I think that's right.
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Originally Posted by Damian
No offense to you Verbs, or TEA but those #'s are very low considering the 2.5 LS6 head and that size cam along with the LSX. Even through a 12 bolt you should be knocking down 450-460 rwhp easily considering the mods done.
Sorry, just call 'em like I see 'em.
Sorry, just call 'em like I see 'em.
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