I would like to see more posts from the guys who are running 402 motors with an automatic transmission. The majority of the cars on this forum seem to be M6 cars. As a result you can learn quite allot from people who have a 402 coupled to an M6.

But what about us A4 guys?

For instance, with the M6 guys it�s common to see RWHP numbers above 500. But what�s typical for an A4 car? What cam sizes and converter sizes provide good drivability with an A4 while still producing great power? What are realistic expectations with an A4 and a 402?

Lets start posting some details in this thread so we can all get a gut check on realistic expectations. We'll need to list relevant information and to get things rolling I will start it off.

2004 C5 Coupe � 470 RWHP and 461 RWTQ
Here is what I did to get there and a brief description of what it�s like to drive the car.

- LS2 Block with the stock bore (SDPC Shortblock)
- Eagle Crank 4" stroke
- SCAT H-Beam Rods
- Diamond Dished Pistons -14cc Decked at +.010
- AFR 205 Heads Milled for 62cc Chambers (Works out to a 10.93-to-1 Compression Ratio)
- Cometic Head Gaskets .040 Thick
- Springs are as supplied by AFR (Same as Patriot Gold) but shimmed to 1.750
- Cam 234/238 & .598/.605 lift @ 114 LSA. Tony Mamo cam used in test 2&3 on his 383 project.
- Stock Rocker arms with 7.350 pushrods
- FAST 90mm Intake Ported by Tony, the first one he did by the way. (Other than his)
- 90mm GM LS2 Drive By Wire Throttle Body
- SVO 30# Injectors With The Fat One Over #7
- LG Long Tube Headers & Crossover with Random Cats & ZO6 Ti Cat Back
- UD Pulley
- Meziere Elect. Water Pump
- Stock Oil Pump With Shims On The Relief Spring (Redline 20w50)
- Doug DeWitts Direct Replacement Dual Core Radiator
- 4L65-E Level 3 Transmission Built By Gear Star (Thank you Dave Myers!)
- Yank SS3600 Converter
- DTE 3.73 Differential and Gears
- Dyno Runs made on Run Flats (Could have slipped a bit) I have Firehawk Wide Ovals Now
Assembled and Tuned by 21st Century Muscle Cars

Drivability:
In the summer heat at initial startup the idle can be a bit temperamental for about a minute or two, then it�s fine. I also need to leave the AC off until the engine warms up but that takes just a couple of minutes. In the winter the warm up obviously takes a little longer

At The Track:
The car does run extremely well when warm. Thus far I have had one opportunity to get out to the track but it was 1/8th. I run a CCW drag pack with the 26x11.5x16 ET Streets. My 60 was 1.54 and I ran a consistent 7.14 with a 2800 DA. However I was tagging the limiter on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Later I discovered my shift points were set at 6800, where they should be, but the rev limiter was also set at 6800. The limiter has since been changed to 7K but it's too hot for accurate track testing now.


Now tell us about your car and lets get some insight into what works with a 402 and an A4.

 

Your right this would be a good thread.I have a 99 c5 with 402 stroker 402 stroker from a and a corvette RPM built a4 3200 vig stall converter 373 getrag gears dte stut brace Elderbrock heads from west coast clyinder heads 245cc unported fast intake Katech 90mm throttle body 30 pound injectors dyna tech 1.75 headers and cat back borla 4 tip exshuast. 160 thermosat nx 150 dual noozle wet shot with trick window switch and a vararam cold air kit. ls1 edit. tune horsepower 472 torque 464 on motor on nitrous 562 horsepower and 570 torque.it was tuned in 100 degree heat with high humdity.took to the track in the heat it ran a best 11.20 @ 119 on motor on nitrous it ran a best of 10.56 @ 128.33 on nitrous i cant get it to hook out of the hole its spinning through the 60 ft.so i just ordered a set of qa1 shocks hope it helps.15000 dollars later and still have not ran better than the stock bottom end 346 .

 

I have 3 sets of numbers from my car. Which baseline do you want.
Mustang Dyno 458rwhp/407tq
Dynojet STD 496/447
Dynojet SAE 486/437
These numbers were while running cats, which I've since removed. I'm also waiting on a custom 90mm MAF since I'm maxing mine before I hit 5600 rpms.

I had it professionally tuned, and it's very drivable, but LOUD lol.

I believe I could have done better with 225cc heads instead of the 245's but live and learn. Check out my website in my sig for full buildup details.

 

Since most of us get our numbers on a Dynojet I would say use numbers from that Dyno and use the ones you think most accurately represent your car. You also need to tell us what combination of parts and services you used to get there.

If we just get numbers without knowing what produced them the information will be of little use.

 

SO NOBODY ELSE WANTS POST RESULTS KNOW THERE HAS TO BE MORE 402 A4 COMBOS OUT THERE.

 

This is exactly what I was talking about. There are dozens of guys on the forums talking about the setups they put together and the results they obtained with their M6 cars. But there are not enough automatics and our setups have to be very different from the M6 guys to be successful.

Come on guys lets help each other out here. Let others learn from your experience.

 

1998 coupe,tsp 403 440rwhp 420tq sy3500 converter best time11;5 @119mph

 

I have a 98 z28 A4 with a built transmission and a vig 3200 stall. The shortblock is a ls2 402 from sdpc. The block consists of a eagle 4" crank, crower rods, and
Diamond -14cc dished pistons. I am using afr 205 heads milled .030 for a 61cc chamber with .041 thick gaskets. The cam that I am using which I feel is hurting my numbers (especially my torque) is a tsp ms3 cam (237/242 .603"/.609" 113 degree) which is basically made for a max effort 346ci. block.

I am running all the usual bolt-ons: unported fast 90mm intake, nw tb, kooks 1 3/4 headers with catted y-pipe, gmmg exhaust, asp pulley, meziere electric wp, slp lid and 42lb svo injecters.

On cold starts the car starts up on the rough side and takes a few minutes to find a steady idol, but after that it is fine. I havn't got to the track yet because every time I was suppose to go it rained (got to love new england weather). Dyno numbers are 471 rwhp and 440 rwtq through 3.73's on street tires.

 

Now that is interesting because if you go back to my first post you will see that my numbers and yours are very close. We also have many of the same or similar parts. I too am concerned that my cam is a bit small but at the same time I dont want an idle that is so radical I can't drive the car out of the driveway without it stalling. I also want to be able to run the AC without a problem. I am still looking for the perfect cam.

 

Don't hold your breath because there are not than many out there. However there are a fair amount of 408/A4 combos putting down good track and dyno numbers.

 

Your cold start issues and driveability problems are not cam related but tune related. With a razor sharp driveability tune, you'd have stock-like manners, even when dead cold. If you are satisfied with your WOT dyno numbers, then you need to have someone work on the drive tune.

 

402, 403, 408, its all close enough for me.

 

Good info.

 

402 et 245 90\90 kooks 1 7\8 lts w\catted y through stock ws6 cat back 12:1 cam motion 257\267 A4 3200 12 bolt 4:11 477rhp\481rtq

 

Here's a run down on our car. I got it inspected today with flying colors. I did have to stick the MAF back on and alter the tune to make it happy, but it drives as good as it did with my little C1 cam. Our best ET is 10.39 with 1.38 60fts in +2400 DA air.

We have also dropped a little weight with front Strange brakes since those runs, but she's still a pig (I'm still talking about the car in case the wife is watching )

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/521967-finally-got-408-grocery-getter-dyno-results.html

I'm shooting for 9.9s all motor if the car holds up and the air quality is available.

 

Sweet!

 

How much does the car weigh?

 

How many of y'all had your converters locked when you dynoed? That can make a big difference.

Also, the exhaust can have alot to do with unlocking these big cube motors (I know, unrelated to the topic of A4 but just pointing out). I'm wondering if the common 3" catback is choking these big cube motors down...

Thats why I'm getting a dual cutout ypipe fabbed up soon...

 

FWIW- I run dual 3" cut-outs and it makes a big difference over the capped up dual dual street set up.

I don't know exactly what we weigh right now, but we should be right at 3520-3560#s.

The T-tops, stock SS hood, Power steering,etc doesn't help, but I'm not willing to sacrifice some of this stuff yet. The 80# iron block isn't helping either,but I knew that going into it and the durability is why I chose the trade off.

 

get em james, cant wait to check that dman car out, i live 5min away and still havent seen it,