Dyno Dynamics
I recently visited a shop with a dyno dynamics dyno and I was very disappointed. I've been in GM performance and tuning for years now and have gone personally on dyno tuning days everywhere between as far north as PA, as south as LA, and as west as KS. I've literally used several dynos between various dynojets and a couple of mustangs.
The vehicle I was tuning on this Dyno dynamics dyno was a box stock LS2 TBSS. I've done a ton of these as they are one of our niche markets and a personal favorite of myself. I know that a stock TBSS typically does between 288-310 rwhp depending on AWD/2WD and if the vehicle is a freak or not. This accounts for a reasonable amount of drivetrain loss.
You can imagine my surprise when I saw 244, 247, and a 255 whp number! I told the guy, listen.. I've done lots and lots of these and that number isn't right. He then goes on to tell me how inflated a dynojet number is. lets see...
250 (avg) /395 ~ 37% drive line loss
300 (avg) / 395 ~ 25% drive line loss
which seems more reasonable?
We all know that GM doesn't OVER rate engines. in fact I recently finished a LS2 destined for a boat on a superflow engine dyno. It dynoed 480 with a very small 222/222 cam. I don't think 400 even would be a problem with the stock cam

The kicker was the operator said "well what number would you like to see?" He then starts clicking up on the correction factor until the weather correction reads 1.14. Thats when it was time to go...
Not only did the dyno produce very low and unrealistic numbers the operator had the easy ability to alter the numbers. How honest is your tuner/dyno operator?
Unless you put the weather station of a dynojet in a oven you are getting a number. Theres no up arrow to click on the weather station!!!The rep later called me and tried to explain the numbers to me. This is ridiculous.. We all know its a tuning tool.. but if you step on a scale all your adult life and know your weight would you buy some random person trying to tell you your real weight is 50 pounds heavier?
Heres the bottom line..
The dynojets I've used have reasonably added up to a realistic or believable number.
The dynojets I've used have all been extremely consistant within themselves and very consistent between different dynos.. Say 3% worse possible case and typically 1-1.5% or less. (4-6 rwhp on a 400rwhp car)
Dynojet does not allow for any quick modifications to a correction factor.. Dyno dynamics is playing with fire letting their operators quickly skew or alter numbers.
I own a loading dyno jet. It has been fantastic and it meets all my tuning needs. I'm able to load test vehicles, do steady state loading and RPM/MPH holding etc. The dynojet has fantastic resolution (contradictory to what the local dyno dynamics rep told me) and superb repeatability. If my dynojet was AWD I wouldn't have needed to visit this dyno dynamics. I tell you I wish I had that 2 hours of my life and $75 back.
You could of tuned the TBSS on that and went on dynojet to see everything is fine and making good power, power you expect.
I heard they are awsome dyno's though, with the ability to adjust load.
Im not saying its reasonable (this one does sound lower than normal) Im saying they are underrated but you can still tune fine. #s dont mean anything.
IE My bros stock evo IX rated at 300hp. Made 245whp on dyno dynamics. After tuning and air intake we made 315whp. Other evos IX's that are stock dyno around 270whp on dynojets and 330+ tuned respectively.
hope this helps.
moral: yes it will read lower but you can tune fine. Sometimes better than dynojet, for turbo cars atleast that need to stimulate LOAD.
Im not saying its reasonable (this one does sound lower than normal) Im saying they are underrated but you can still tune fine. #s dont mean anything.
IE My bros stock evo IX rated at 300hp. Made 245whp on dyno dynamics. After tuning and air intake we made 315whp. Other evos IX's that are stock dyno around 270whp on dynojets and 330+ tuned respectively.
hope this helps.
moral: yes it will read lower but you can tune fine. Sometimes better than dynojet, for turbo cars atleast that need to stimulate LOAD.
Dynojets do have a loading option with a optional eddy current brake. I have one and its fantastic.
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What makes you so sure it isn't a statistical anomaly?
You're also comparing brand A to brand X i.e. different bathroom scales. You've also made an important observation, there is a difference in the algorithms between the two dynos.
I'd personally be more worried about the delta (difference) between your work pre and post tunning.
.02
Quite mobile too.
Dyno pack is cooler if u have the cash.
A dyno is just a tuning tool to help us see improvements in a tune. ANY dyno can be modified to make any numbers you want. It is purely a tool to make us see if we gain anything in real life. If on a dyno jet or any other dyno, if you see a gain, then you are good.
Real life drag strip is the real only way to see if your final settings make a difference.
AGAIN who cares what the dynos say or make from one to another. If im out tuning at a remote shop, and a guy makes 300 hp on his initial pull and i make changes and it goes to 330, then i made 30 more hp on the vehicle no matter what the dyno it is on. Point is, you gain 30. Who cares if one dyno shows 250 or shows 300. The customer should be happy because there was a definate gain.
(pardon the redneck comparison)
(pardon the redneck comparison)
I do have a question regarding the loading ability of dynojets and dyno dynamics. How do you determine the loads with this setup? Is it by information pertaining to the vehicle or just a load percentage that you manually control?
I know with my mustang dyno I enter information pertaining to the specific car on the rollers and the machine simulates the load for that car. I have the ability to manually control the load but how do I know what percent is correct.
We dynoed 3 cars on my DJ, and then later the same 3 cars on a DD.
One car dynoed right on.
One car dynoed higher on the DD than on my DJ.
The last car dynoed lower on the DD than on my DJ.
All of these cars have since then been dynoed on my DJ AGAIN, and ALL were within a couple % of the previous time on my DJ.
To me a dyno is a tool that needs to be more than anything REPEATABLE. And a dynojet is just that. I havent seen the same thing from the others. Maybe its operator error? Possibly, but that shouldnt be a factor. You shouldnt be able to, as the operator, cause higher or lower results. It should be an 'is what it is' situation.
As for tuning, and loading, I can do things with my 248 that most people say you cant do. Dont wanna give away and "trade secrets" but I will say I can load a car pretty good. I can dial in a VE table, that needs little adjustment if any once its on the street.
Just my .02, and thats about all it worth.....
We dynoed 3 cars on my DJ, and then later the same 3 cars on a DD.
One car dynoed right on.
One car dynoed higher on the DD than on my DJ.
The last car dynoed lower on the DD than on my DJ.
All of these cars have since then been dynoed on my DJ AGAIN, and ALL were within a couple % of the previous time on my DJ.
To me a dyno is a tool that needs to be more than anything REPEATABLE. And a dynojet is just that. I havent seen the same thing from the others. Maybe its operator error? Possibly, but that shouldnt be a factor. You shouldnt be able to, as the operator, cause higher or lower results. It should be an 'is what it is' situation.
As for tuning, and loading, I can do things with my 248 that most people say you cant do. Dont wanna give away and "trade secrets" but I will say I can load a car pretty good. I can dial in a VE table, that needs little adjustment if any once its on the street.
Just my .02, and thats about all it worth.....
Thats what I'm saying.. I literally stood right there and watched him move the number up and down.. Where is the honesty in that? First you have a ruler that doesn't measure real numbers (who says dynojet is inflated, the numbers come out to a normal and realistic loss) Then you say you can push the number up and down at the click of a mouse.
Now that ability is completely obvious becasue there was a shop with a DD that went out of business about a year ago. We have since baseline several from that shop 20-50rwhp lower than what thier "low reading" dd read.

I know tuning is just about seeing a gain.. but hell... I want a realistic number. That way you know if your doing good + you know if somethhing is wrong. Finally, I can't give that number to a customer.. no matter what I tell him he will think there is something wrong somewhere.





