CAM only F-body to take out a C6Z06!
12-11-2008, 04:56 PM
#21
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What do you guys think it would take to get some 125-128ish traps out of a F-body? T-56 or auto? I'd like some opinions on this.
What about a c6z? 125-128 is easy money for a stock c6z right?
What about a c6z? 125-128 is easy money for a stock c6z right?
12-11-2008, 05:01 PM
#22
With a properly set up heads, cam, torque conv and chassis combo, it is more than do-able.
We have more than one cam only customer with bolt-ons, converter and gears running low 11's on nittos in a 3300-3500lb F-bodies. We also have more than a few cam only GTOs running 11.00 to 11.20's in the 3500-3800lb range...
The main point is, these are all well thought out, sorted out combinations. With the right planning and execution, its not all that difficult.
Thanks,
Shane
We have more than one cam only customer with bolt-ons, converter and gears running low 11's on nittos in a 3300-3500lb F-bodies. We also have more than a few cam only GTOs running 11.00 to 11.20's in the 3500-3800lb range...
The main point is, these are all well thought out, sorted out combinations. With the right planning and execution, its not all that difficult.
Thanks,
Shane
12-11-2008, 07:58 PM
#25
You have a better chance from a dig on the street then from a roll. Not saying you couldn't beat it from a roll but even that race would have to be set from 1st gear to about 130mph, anything more than that and the Z could over take you in the top end because of the type of gears the f body would have.
All of that said if the F body is a 6 speed, lid, ported fast 90mm intake, race headers, cut out, MS4, Fly cut pistons with milled trick flow heads to yield 11.1 compression , 4.10 gearing, underdrive pulley, electric water pump, drag light wheels with a 325 50 15 mickey drag radial tire, I would put my money on the F body.
All of that said if the F body is a 6 speed, lid, ported fast 90mm intake, race headers, cut out, MS4, Fly cut pistons with milled trick flow heads to yield 11.1 compression , 4.10 gearing, underdrive pulley, electric water pump, drag light wheels with a 325 50 15 mickey drag radial tire, I would put my money on the F body.
12-11-2008, 10:14 PM
#26
I think the main variable that needs to be taken into consideration is the fact that not everyone is a pro driver. Take your run of the mill driver and it will not be that hard. I have driven a Z06 and its not an easy one to drive at WOT. From a dig I personally dont think it will be that hard. You just need a decent cam and be able to hook. I beat 2 Z06's at the track with my mods and a 100 shot. Stock rear and no stall. Just on a set of nittos. The best he could pull was a mid 12. Not everyone can pull 11's in their Z.
12-12-2008, 12:50 PM
#27
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To the OP whats the deal hear? Your talking about spending a LOT of $$$ is this a grudge race or what? Sorry just curious..... As for if you can take the Z06 I don't know most people on here know much more that I do ,but I would think that with a carefully set plan and parts that work with each other it could be done. H/C, gears, tires, and take care of the airflow on both ends and you could be making sick power. I'd pull the motor and start over from bare block. Get everything forged so you can spray big. Or like others have said go LSX.
12-12-2008, 04:44 PM
#33
I had a ridiculously long post typed up, but what it comes down to is that most people can't drive. I see C6Zs run 12s and 13s all day long at the track, embarassing anyone with an LS motor. Street/roll racing takes a lot of that away, but either way, a good driver in a lightly modded (mild H/C) F body powershifting like a proper American will take a rich ***** in a Z any day of the week. Its when you get someone like Ranger on the 'Vette forums driving against you that you've got a problem.
I've driven 3 C6Zs. Considering some of the stuff I've taken in them, if an F body rolled up against me on the street, he better be putting down AT LEAST 500 at the wheels if he wants a snowball's chance in hell of beating me, dig or roll.
I've driven 3 C6Zs. Considering some of the stuff I've taken in them, if an F body rolled up against me on the street, he better be putting down AT LEAST 500 at the wheels if he wants a snowball's chance in hell of beating me, dig or roll.
12-12-2008, 05:07 PM
#34
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Most of the c6zo6s I hav eseen with a desent driver run mid to high 11s in street trim on street tires. So a descent cam / bolt on fbody on nittos with a stall should be able to get it done. To those who say a heads and cam car can't get it need to look back into you combination. I had a regular set of 99 ls1 heads ported by patriot and a tqv3 with bolt ons and a 3800 converter and ran 11.50s on regular summitumo street tires.
12-12-2008, 06:15 PM
#35
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You need to go with a good cam only setup and then add a 150 shot for just those special occasions. Then it's by by Z06. At least when the bottle is full
12-12-2008, 07:07 PM
#36
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Its definitly doable,i beat one by a half a car from a roll not to long ago and im an auto with a PT4000..It surprized the **** out of me,i thought i would go down because of all the "Talk" on the intraweb about it being...Unbeatable..lol
12-12-2008, 09:07 PM
#37
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I raced one from a 50 roll in my nova on power tour this year. From 50 to about 130 he was bout a half a car back. My car is a tad lighter than a fbody but not as aerodynamic either. But he came around me pretty good up top. Like many others have said a GOOD working setup could easily do it. If your going from a dig your car better work... Make him catch you cause if hes already out in front your in trouble.
12-13-2008, 12:27 AM
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with times like these it'll be hard to beat!!
but i do think its doable.
how about instead of cam only, heads only car. i've seen a ls1 gto make some maaaaaassssive numbers with some AI heads
