Guess my Horsepower
#1
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Here are my mods. Asp 25% UD pulley, electric WP, Spec Aluminum flywheel, Ls6 intake with stock MAF and TB, whisper lid and k&n, 5 axis CNC ported 806's (flowed 286 Intake) milled .020, ls6 valves, ls6 springs, Howard's ASA cam (GMPP ASA cam nearly identical, they say lobes are slightly more aggressive). I'll be using stock GM head gaskets as well. As you read I'm taking as much free HP as I can. I only plan on spinning 6200rpm. So what do you think It will make? I wanted an engine that makes great under the curve tq/hp and and will keep gas mileage up. Compression on the motor should be 10.7-10.8:1
THIS IS my setup. No changing it, but if you have any tidbits to free up any more power let me know. What about aluminum 1.75 or 1.8 rockers? Given them a lot of thought just dont know how much more effective they will be for the $. They will increase lift etc. or maybe the trunnion upgrade... I appreciate any recommendations, oh and btw here are a list of prices i paid.
Heads= $240
Cam= $320 new
Valves = $100
Springs = $30
Stg 3 spec clutch and aluminum flywheel = $300
Ls1 lifters = $20 new
Ls2 hardened timing chain and new sprockets =$45 new
Asp UD pulley= $110 bolt included
Meizere Electric WP= $175
Ls6 intake= $250
Whisper lid= $35
PS LT headers= $175 new
Stainless 3" ORY= $140
3" cutout= $25 (I made my own electric cutout to fit)
I have spent about a year gathering and swapping parts to finally get all of this.
THIS IS my setup. No changing it, but if you have any tidbits to free up any more power let me know. What about aluminum 1.75 or 1.8 rockers? Given them a lot of thought just dont know how much more effective they will be for the $. They will increase lift etc. or maybe the trunnion upgrade... I appreciate any recommendations, oh and btw here are a list of prices i paid.
Heads= $240
Cam= $320 new
Valves = $100
Springs = $30
Stg 3 spec clutch and aluminum flywheel = $300
Ls1 lifters = $20 new
Ls2 hardened timing chain and new sprockets =$45 new
Asp UD pulley= $110 bolt included
Meizere Electric WP= $175
Ls6 intake= $250
Whisper lid= $35
PS LT headers= $175 new
Stainless 3" ORY= $140
3" cutout= $25 (I made my own electric cutout to fit)
I have spent about a year gathering and swapping parts to finally get all of this.
#4
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I agree !!!!
Also OP; you are asking alot from those LS6 springs as GM designed them
for the 204/218, .551/.547 cam. I know you have the lighter valves but your
cam is still bigger and higher ratio/aluminum rockers will add a bunch of weight
at the valve. Either trunion upgrade your stockers and pray for no valve float
or I'd strongly suggest 918 Comp springs, PAC, or PSI 1511
Also OP; you are asking alot from those LS6 springs as GM designed them
for the 204/218, .551/.547 cam. I know you have the lighter valves but your
cam is still bigger and higher ratio/aluminum rockers will add a bunch of weight
at the valve. Either trunion upgrade your stockers and pray for no valve float
or I'd strongly suggest 918 Comp springs, PAC, or PSI 1511
#7
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Whats with everyone hating on the ls6 springs and a .525 lift asa cam? This is what the asa ls3 uses and they spin 6500 all day.... And they use stock pushrods....
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#9
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They arent much different than the asa lobes. 226/236 still. I honestly think they "say" they are more aggressive but i measured both gmpp asa and howards lobes and couldnt tell them apart. Lol.
#13
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based on the assumed theory of "someone else runs these on ASA LS3s"......
How can you be so certain that these teams don't immediately swap out for
some PSI or PAC surface enhanced springs designed to shed oil faster and run
cooler in the brutal environment of sustained rpm style racing. I thought I saw
that you paid $30 bucks for your yellow springs ??? Are they even new ??? If
not what is the history of them ??? A valvetrain is a system of parts that
need to be matched in order to deliver reliable power over the rpm powerband
Just common sense that your new cam is bigger (not lift) but duration...and
the whole system feels the kick of a cam lobe with 20 deg. more of duration.
Being your new cam has less lift; even running a .030" shim will only increase
the seat pressure by about 10 lbs. and the open by 15 at most, however
there is simply no way to have the piece of mind without putting a performanc
spring in there.....
#16
I don't understand why some are looking for miracle. You take an engine that makes on average 315 to the wheels, swap in a cam and thinking the power is going to jump 100hp.
You need the support the mods to do it. You need to get the air in and out effectively and efficiently. You need headers, you need a good intake, a good throttle body, etc etc...
380 RWHP is pretty freaking good!! I have had old school small blocks at made 330 to the wheels and that was awesome street power. Some people think they need more power than they really do.
You need the support the mods to do it. You need to get the air in and out effectively and efficiently. You need headers, you need a good intake, a good throttle body, etc etc...
380 RWHP is pretty freaking good!! I have had old school small blocks at made 330 to the wheels and that was awesome street power. Some people think they need more power than they really do.
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Well i do have some good heads im putting on amongst all the bolt ons, not just a cam swap. Im going for maximum VE. But i dont want a radical high lift cam. I like the ASA and its tried and true. I just wanted to see what peole think it will make. I'm thinking it will prolly shock me. Cant wait for that under the curve power
#19
Well i do have some good heads im putting on amongst all the bolt ons, not just a cam swap. Im going for maximum VE. But i dont want a radical high lift cam. I like the ASA and its tried and true. I just wanted to see what peole think it will make. I'm thinking it will prolly shock me. Cant wait for that under the curve power
You're using a mild cam in comparison to whats out there
Bottom line, people can only guess and compare similar combinations, but there are also many other variables and rarely someone has the EXACT same combo as you do and has a dyno run and even than there are environmental conditions.
You could make less hp and you could make more. Even then dyno numbers are irrelevant. Its proven performance on the track and your satisfaction in the seat. Don't get wrapped around the axle on the #. Build your engine with what you have and hope for the best.