CAM INSTALL, Advice please
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 188
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CAM INSTALL, Advice please Hey guys im getting ready to purchase a cam. I live in maryland but dont know of any place around here who would know the first thing about ls1's. Can you guys give me any info? The cam isnt to radical, what do i need to do to the motor, springs, pushrods, pistons, fuel pump ? how much will this all run me excluding the cam?
I would say you need a good set of dual valvesprings, titanium retainers, hardened spring seats, new valve stem seals. Also doing a LS6 oil pump is a good idea if your car is pre-01. You will need hardened chromoly pushrods most likely 7.350".
We have a bunch of packages available that includes tuning and installation. We have cams that is right along that lines of the cam you are looking for but are proven to make 415+ rwhp on stock 01-02 heads with headers.
Stage 3 Equalizer Cam Package
TTP "Equalizer" V.3 Camshaft
Crane Dual Springs, Spring Seats, Titanium Retainers, Valve Stem Seals
TTP Custom Chromoly Hardened Pushrods
Double Roller Timing Chain
Synthetic Oil/Filter Change
All gaskets/bolts necessary
Installation
LS1 Edit Full Custom Dyno Tuning
= $2074.95 + Tax
We have a bunch of packages available that includes tuning and installation. We have cams that is right along that lines of the cam you are looking for but are proven to make 415+ rwhp on stock 01-02 heads with headers.
Stage 3 Equalizer Cam Package
TTP "Equalizer" V.3 Camshaft
Crane Dual Springs, Spring Seats, Titanium Retainers, Valve Stem Seals
TTP Custom Chromoly Hardened Pushrods
Double Roller Timing Chain
Synthetic Oil/Filter Change
All gaskets/bolts necessary
Installation
LS1 Edit Full Custom Dyno Tuning
= $2074.95 + Tax
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 221
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From: Pawcatuck, CT
That's a really big cam.
Are you really sure what you're getting yourself into with one of those? You could daily drive it, but it won't idle well, you won't have much down low (powerband will probably start somewhere around 3,500-4,000,) you're going to need a pretty big stall if you have an automatic, a set of 3.73s/4.10s and a stronger clutch if you have a manual, you'll probably get about 8-10mpg, and just to get started you're going to need a decent amount of dyno time and a good tuner to get it dialed in.
I'd recommend going with something smaller on a daily driven street car.
Are you really sure what you're getting yourself into with one of those? You could daily drive it, but it won't idle well, you won't have much down low (powerband will probably start somewhere around 3,500-4,000,) you're going to need a pretty big stall if you have an automatic, a set of 3.73s/4.10s and a stronger clutch if you have a manual, you'll probably get about 8-10mpg, and just to get started you're going to need a decent amount of dyno time and a good tuner to get it dialed in.
I'd recommend going with something smaller on a daily driven street car.
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Are u running a 6sp...
Thats a big cam bro and a big split,its gonna peak 6500+
Matt hit the nail on the head..Follow his opinion on the required parts and you'll be fine but IMO thats going to need a good tuner to idle correctly both hot/cold starts and cruise.
Thats a big cam bro and a big split,its gonna peak 6500+
Matt hit the nail on the head..Follow his opinion on the required parts and you'll be fine but IMO thats going to need a good tuner to idle correctly both hot/cold starts and cruise.
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Like everyone said, If you didn't want a radical cam you certainly have one. I agree with what everyone is saying. If I were you I would definitely look for a good strong valvetrain to handle that amount of lift. You will probably spend an additional $1000.00 for that. I think your big worry is going to be drivability. You might as well find a tuner that has a dyno also. You are really going to need a deep calibrating software and someone with some know how to tune that cam. I would expect tuning and dyno time to run $850.00 or more. Good luck with your swap.
I'm not sure if a vavletrain will run you $1k, sounds a bit high. I'm trying to decide what the final goal of my car is going to be so I can pick a cam right now. My ears want me to go BIG or go home (I crave a real lumpy idle), but I like to drive my car more than some do. I'm just wondering how quickly the valvetrain will wear (I suppose that's where the 1k vavletrain comes into play).
You went with a cam that seems pretty big even to ones I was considering. Was there a reason you went with this cam?
You went with a cam that seems pretty big even to ones I was considering. Was there a reason you went with this cam?
You'll need springs and hardened pushrods for that as far as valvetrain is concerned. I'd stay with the stock rockers because rollers have heavy tips and adds mass for high RPM stuff. I'd definately go double-springs on that personally. The PRC's probably go for about $280. They'll come with all the spring-type stuff you'll need. Pushrods for probably ~$120 or so. I'd also get a better timing chain, I think the LS2 chains aren't too expensive (I'll guess $100.) and are a direct replacement part. Depending on the year of your car you'll need a better oil pump which will probably be around $100. Dyno tune for probably $500.
That would come to $1100 if you did the installation yourself. I'm not saying that that isn't a massive cam... You'd probably have to put ARP rod bolts to spin high enough to really reach the power it makes.
I dunno, I think for the average person's daily driver something in the 220-230 range would probably be suitable, though I've heard of lots of people (including me) enjoying bigger cams in their DD's. Mine right now is a 222/222 .556/.556 112LSA. It's a baby cam for sure, but it makes pretty decent power and it's very tolerable in stop and go traffic. I'd look for somebody that could take you for a ride in their cam-only car and see how you like their stuff if you could. Otherwise its just guesswork until you put the thing in there. Even if other people can explain it to you, you won't really understand until about 2 months after the install what they were talking about (when the 'new cam' smile wears off, haha)
That would come to $1100 if you did the installation yourself. I'm not saying that that isn't a massive cam... You'd probably have to put ARP rod bolts to spin high enough to really reach the power it makes.
I dunno, I think for the average person's daily driver something in the 220-230 range would probably be suitable, though I've heard of lots of people (including me) enjoying bigger cams in their DD's. Mine right now is a 222/222 .556/.556 112LSA. It's a baby cam for sure, but it makes pretty decent power and it's very tolerable in stop and go traffic. I'd look for somebody that could take you for a ride in their cam-only car and see how you like their stuff if you could. Otherwise its just guesswork until you put the thing in there. Even if other people can explain it to you, you won't really understand until about 2 months after the install what they were talking about (when the 'new cam' smile wears off, haha)
I figured $1000.00 based on new beehive type springs, pushrods, rockers, titanium retainers and superlocks. 280 + 120 + 500 + 25 + 16 = $941.00
I reused the stock 1.7:1 rockers on mine. So if you minus the $500 you can get it down to $441.00
Tuning is alot harder to put a number on. I figured $850.00 assuming there isn't any software platform in place. If you send your PCM to Tbyrne they can do the Wester's custom tuning for $500.00. I would get some sessions of dyno time after and tweaking to account for relearn. +/-$300.00 (2 sessions)
Larger injectors could be an expense of +/-$325 based on a set of 36# injectors.
Anyone that has done a cam swap also knows there is a miscellaneous expense lol!
Assuming you are doing the work yourself, there is always some tool or something you don't have to do the cam swap. This includes anything from buying a valve spring tool, to thread lock, to replacement coolant, to a pulley puller lol!
I reused the stock 1.7:1 rockers on mine. So if you minus the $500 you can get it down to $441.00
Tuning is alot harder to put a number on. I figured $850.00 assuming there isn't any software platform in place. If you send your PCM to Tbyrne they can do the Wester's custom tuning for $500.00. I would get some sessions of dyno time after and tweaking to account for relearn. +/-$300.00 (2 sessions)
Larger injectors could be an expense of +/-$325 based on a set of 36# injectors.
Anyone that has done a cam swap also knows there is a miscellaneous expense lol!
Assuming you are doing the work yourself, there is always some tool or something you don't have to do the cam swap. This includes anything from buying a valve spring tool, to thread lock, to replacement coolant, to a pulley puller lol!
Last edited by zo6vetteman2003; May 3, 2005 at 06:15 PM.
Originally Posted by zo6vetteman2003
Tuning is alot harder to put a number on. I figured $850.00 assuming there isn't any software platform in place.
I totally agree though, there were a few unexpected costs I hadn't planned for. Always allow for those little 'oh ****, I forgot to buy ..."
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 188
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Comp Cams XER lobe
234/246 598/613 113LSA
i have decided since i already purchased it that im gonna go ahead and be radical
my nitrous will be in the mail soon so once i get oth items, im gonna save a couple pay checks, buy my valve train stuff, my window switch, bottle heater, fuel pressure switch, and purge valve. then ill save for another month and start having it all installed, even though its gona be a daily driver i think it will be quite sick when im done and i look forward to owning a couple of trashtalkers in the area
234/246 598/613 113LSA
i have decided since i already purchased it that im gonna go ahead and be radical
my nitrous will be in the mail soon so once i get oth items, im gonna save a couple pay checks, buy my valve train stuff, my window switch, bottle heater, fuel pressure switch, and purge valve. then ill save for another month and start having it all installed, even though its gona be a daily driver i think it will be quite sick when im done and i look forward to owning a couple of trashtalkers in the area
Originally Posted by CamTom12
Just curious what that means... I just hooked my HPTuners up to the diag port and started tuning. I assume the stuff the tuners have is even more powerful than mine. I don't understand what you're saying.
I totally agree though, there were a few unexpected costs I hadn't planned for. Always allow for those little 'oh ****, I forgot to buy ..."
I totally agree though, there were a few unexpected costs I hadn't planned for. Always allow for those little 'oh ****, I forgot to buy ..."
Originally Posted by DriveFastAlways
Comp Cams XER lobe
234/246 598/613 113LSA
i have decided since i already purchased it that im gonna go ahead and be radical
my nitrous will be in the mail soon so once i get oth items, im gonna save a couple pay checks, buy my valve train stuff, my window switch, bottle heater, fuel pressure switch, and purge valve. then ill save for another month and start having it all installed, even though its gona be a daily driver i think it will be quite sick when im done and i look forward to owning a couple of trashtalkers in the area
234/246 598/613 113LSA
i have decided since i already purchased it that im gonna go ahead and be radical
my nitrous will be in the mail soon so once i get oth items, im gonna save a couple pay checks, buy my valve train stuff, my window switch, bottle heater, fuel pressure switch, and purge valve. then ill save for another month and start having it all installed, even though its gona be a daily driver i think it will be quite sick when im done and i look forward to owning a couple of trashtalkers in the area
The valve then falls into the cylinder, breaks off and ruptures your piston head, while getting chewed up against the cylinder wall and other valve. Your clearence is tight to begin with, so be careful with the dot to dot alignment lol! I just think that if you didn't know that cam size was going to be radical, then you won't be happy with it as a daily driver, not to be an a$$, just an opinion. As for the nitrous, the stock pistons are good for just over 500hp and are known to have ring failures.......burnt pistons in these applications so be careful. Is that enough gloom and doom? 
I'm just saying take each step very carefully. I can't tell you how many of these types of applications I've seen go bad because of lack of attention to detail. Are you doing the install yourself or are you having a shop do the work? Don't forget to buy the oil pump spring shim from SLP and a good aftermarket timing chain set.
Last edited by zo6vetteman2003; May 5, 2005 at 04:29 AM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 188
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Originally Posted by zo6vetteman2003
I still shake my head at that cam size. I know with mine, 228/230 needed some major tuning to get it to idle good and run right. I'm on the edge of radical, but daily drivability I have. I called Comp and let them select my cam based on what mods. I had and type driving I intended on doing. I think you are going to be in for one bucking, stalling, surging unbelievable ride if you don't get someone that really knows what the hell they are doing, take my word for it. The amount of lift is also an issue because .613" is alot and there are piston to valve clearence issues that come into play. That is enough lift where if you don't pay attention to that valvetrain durability and geometry, you may break a valvespring. That is a catostrophic failure. The valve then falls into the cylinder, breaks off and ruptures your piston head, while getting chewed up against the cylinder wall and other valve. Your clearence is tight to begin with, so be careful with the dot to dot alignment lol! I just think that if you didn't know that cam size was going to be radical, then you won't be happy with it as a daily driver, not to be an a$$, just an opinion. As for the nitrous, the stock pistons are good for just over 500hp and are known to have ring failures.......burnt pistons in these applications so be careful. Is that enough gloom and doom?
I'm just saying take each step very carefully. I can't tell you how many of these types of applications I've seen go bad because of lack of attention to detail. Are you doing the install yourself or are you having a shop do the work? Don't forget to buy the oil pump spring shim from SLP and a good aftermarket timing chain set.
The valve then falls into the cylinder, breaks off and ruptures your piston head, while getting chewed up against the cylinder wall and other valve. Your clearence is tight to begin with, so be careful with the dot to dot alignment lol! I just think that if you didn't know that cam size was going to be radical, then you won't be happy with it as a daily driver, not to be an a$$, just an opinion. As for the nitrous, the stock pistons are good for just over 500hp and are known to have ring failures.......burnt pistons in these applications so be careful. Is that enough gloom and doom? I'm just saying take each step very carefully. I can't tell you how many of these types of applications I've seen go bad because of lack of attention to detail. Are you doing the install yourself or are you having a shop do the work? Don't forget to buy the oil pump spring shim from SLP and a good aftermarket timing chain set.
Almost deffinitley going to have a shop do it, that way when they **** it up they can fix it for free lol. Also i will do more research and make sure i beef up my valvetrain nicely,what kind of clearance issues will i have? I will also look for someone who knows there stuff to tune it.