After much internal struggling, I decided to go to a local shop (we know the guy there) and talk about buying a 12-bolt. BSM and I took a 1/2 day from work and both went down there and discussed exactly what I'd need and what I'd want. I was given an out the door quote and was going to hold off when the guy was going to throw in a couple of small incentives. I was still gonna wait but BSM pulled me aside and said that I could do it now or do it in the middle of the season when my 10-bolt breaks. It made sense and I've really been itching to put some MT drag radials in it and launch the ***** off it. I ended up ordering it and should get it around January 2nd.

I'm going to use the stock driveshaft until I decide to spray the car or use some kind of forced induction. I went with 4.10 gears and am hoping that between the better launch and the better gear ratio that I'll be able to put the car solidly in the 11.50 range.

I'll be working on the suspension next (I have a BMR torque arm and BMR lower control arms). At some poit in the future I'll get relocation brackets but I'm wondering if I need an adjustable panhard bar just to use the rear (before the LCA relocation brackets)?

Thanks and wish me luck!

 

MT doesn't recommend their DR's for stick cars but congrats on the Moser.
I have a Moser and it works very well but it does whine quite a bit.

 

Yea, It was a good time. Its nice dropping a Nut on a 12 bolt!!

I gotta take my rear to the same guy to have a ABS hole drilled and have a reluctor ring put in, 4.10 gears and have LS1 caliper backing plates put on. Before it goes in the T/A.

As for M/T I drove mine last night, they are like any other DR, not a real "slick: but its the stickiest out there.

 

i have m/t's for my stick car and they work excellent...i only run them to the track and back though, wouldnt recommend driving on them full time

 

I've launched my car with 255/50/16 MT DRs at 5000 rpm and lifted both of my 17" chrome ZR1s off the ground. I haven't had a chance to try even higher rpms but they showed no sign yet of breaking free. The trick is to not dump the clutch but ease off it VERY quickly and you will just take off.

 

I've seen people running 1.5 60' times with stick cars and MT radials so I'm not too worried about them hooking up. It does seem like the general consensus is that i'll need a stronger driveshaft even without nitrous.

 

Congrats on your purchase. I love my Moser, you just have to get used to the whine though. I keep my fluid changed in it, and take it to the track every week, never had a problem with it. 4-5k dumps at the light Just keep an eye on that stock tq arm, I already broke 2 of them (till I got my spohn) A good sujestion is to use lock washers on the 4 bolts with some lock tight to keep them from backing out. I usually check mine every other week just to be safe as well. Have fun with it.

rob

 

When ya get it Ron make SURE the bolts for the tq arm stay tight.. I get under my car with a ratchet/wrench all the time and check them. Knock on wood mine don't come loose, btu alot of people's do... just be forewarned of it.


Now, get some slicks on tha thing, and side step it as high as you dare... a driveshaft is a 100% needed item IMO, I'd get a steel one, or a big 3/5 inch alum one, don't mess around with a small one, you'll regret that in the long run.

Once you have that rear in, 11.5 should be attainable.. I look foreward to seeing the results.... should be good!

I do want a rematch too by the way once you get a kit on the car

 

Get that stock aluminum shaft out if you're running real sticky DR's and shooting for 11s. That thing will twist like a beer can. At least make sure you have a loop, because shredding the stocker is a distinct possibility.

 

The car has a BMR adjustible TQ arm and BMR DS loop. It just needs a stronger DS. As for the bolts I used what they gave me with Loctite Red, Never an issue. But should always be checked.

 

why dose MT not recommend m/t's for a stick car ?

 

Oh yea, and if you have a shop install the torque arm for you, make sure they put all four bolts in instead of just the bottom two or it will snap off on your way back from the shop.

 

Yeah, I'll be installing it myself, so I'll definitely heed all your advice. The whole reason to get it is not to have something break, so I don't want to half-*** it on my end, lol. Thanks for all the advice!

I have run an 11.9, but with a crappy 60' and a high mph. I will definitely get a stronger driveshaft before trying to kill the launch.

Jay, we'll definitely run it again, but it'll probably have to be without nitrous, because now that I blew all my money on the rear I won't be buying it fr a long while, lol.

 

They don't recommend then for stick car or transbrake cars because they shock the tires and break them loose. I would imagine the faster you are the more this would apply. I got 1.41 60's out of my MT DR's but not with out my share of breaking them loose at the line and they NEVER hooked off the transbrake once.
I've since went to slicks and have not really improved ,my 60' by much, 1.40 is my best now but I'm much more consistent and never spin now off the transbrake.

 

Not sure if it's gonna be a fair race with us both on motor.. I was thinking you on the bottle my car on motor.... you should be able to run a mid 10 with it once you put a 125 hit on it or so.. about where I should be on motor by the time you put a kit on your car.

I think motor to motor it's not really fair, I made almost 30 more rwhp thru a 6000 converter and a th400.

 

Sounds like the both of you should be on PINKS :rofl:

 

I don't think so.

 

pinks = gay

 

Good luck with the new rear. Mine SCREAMS and I broke some stuff in it. As far as the MT DRs I would go right to an ET street.

 

mine makes some good whine at highway speeds... kinda sounds liek an incar camera of a stock car during the warmup laps LOL... but I'd take that over a busting rear any day.