dan i sent you a pm...

look **** breaks, its dons business with dan, they will work it out. Everyone stay out of it now, its not helping. Dons not even around to post here. Let this thread die. Dan and don will talk and figure it out..period

Thanks

 

yes Mike

 

thanks

 

I miss all the fun

Ok, 10lb spring is in the wastegate. Hook lower vacuum line (on wastegate)directly to the intake. Leave top line off. E-boost say's not to hook up the vacuum line off the intake because they want you to tune around the boost drop by hooking the vacuum off the turbo.The problem is that your custom intercooler plainly sucks.It will boost drop alot of PSI like, start at 15lbs and near redline will drop to 8lbs.We hook it off the intake to make sure the boost stays at the set pressure at the motor(Mikes,Matt ect are all the same)

Now, the voltage regulator is mounted right where Aeromotive said to mount it and where we at the shop figured was the best spot.It was the cleanest part of the truck that had no salt or anything after we drove it and after the other shop drove it. It is litterally mounted under the bed of the truck infront of the gas tank in (what I thought)was a perfect spot.Obviously it got nailed with water or the pump itself got submerged and killed the controller.(the pump is in a crappy spot-right in the weather). Now,I wouldn't mount it in the truck because the controller is loud,will bring electrical noise and probly gets real hot. There is a very easy way to bypass it with a relay.If it is hooked up without the relay like it was when we got it then it WILL melt the wiring(since it already started when we first got the truck from the other shop ussing 14 gauge wire to feed it)

As for the tune.I know it doesn't need anymore major tuning that would indicate a slow vehicle.At 8lbs it was running 18 degree's of timing,14lbs it runs 12 degree's with A/F around 11-1 to 11.8-1 throughout those ranges. The truck will feel slow at 8lbs when you are use to 14lbs. I figure 8lbs is 550rwhp and 14 is probly 700-750rwhp.
The truck stalling indicates probly a vacuum leak or the TB set screw backed itself out(it was missing when we got the truck because it fell out but we used some light locktite)I would start with turning that screw 1/2 turn clockwise with the engine off and try it.
The tranny settings were not touched.It does shift early but not that bad.I really don't like unlocked converters while cruising on a big heavy vehicle.Even Dans truck lugging at part throttle would kill my Avalanche in a race.So it's not really that slow.

I'm done for now

 

ok, thursday i will again pull the bitch into the garage. not sure what to do about the fuel pump regulator since it's dead. I have the pump wired up and it works. The thin red wire that was hooked to the PWR tab is now hooked to the hot side of the pump. That's all i had to do. i unhooked the BAT wire alltogether for now. i'm 99% sure that thin red wire is tapped right into the stock fuel pump wire of the pcm. **edit, i just remembered that aeromotive said to use a relay too. no idea what that means or how to hook one up. would greatly appreciate a little help on that one**

I'll move those hoses around as described in the first part of your post. My assumption is that this will bypass the eboost2? Fine by me. seems pointless anyway. this will at least give me time to read and understand how the boost controller works. Then, I'll be able to clear any saved info in the conroller and set it up properly. **edit, won't my boost gauge NOT work if i do this? where will it read boost from?**

The vac leak. hmm, i'll adjust the set screw and see what happens. hopefully that will be the problem. If it's not, then what? i've read that spraying carb cleaner (or ether) around the intake etc is one way to find a leak. I'm not real keen on doing this though. What about the EGR valve? I also read that a clogged or damaged egr valve could cause the exact same problems. Would i be wise to bring it to a local garage to have them to a vacuum leak test with a fogger or something? there is a shop 1/2 mile away.

lastly, the tranny settings are clearly just my personal preference. I spent a long, long time getting them the way i like them with my last setup. it's nothing you did wrong, obviously. i want the line pressure to be so high that the front tires come off the ground when it shifts, lol. its sooo good for the drivetrain too, lol.

As stated before, Don is my ******* hero for taking on this mess of a truck. It ran tit when i first got it back. All I want to do is get back to that.

 

be advices...your a turbo now...the tranny setting will not be the same as the super charger settings, also your at alot higher power..be real careful with how you set them. You could kill that tranny fast

 

Dan I agree with Mike. I think that once you get your truck running smoothly, the way you want it, you should deffinitally do some small, but effective tranny upgrades. Especially if you want to run with a high line pressure that you are acustom too.

 

will do. i was mostly joking. i just pulled the big pig into the garage a few min ago. barely made it that far. time to follow the instructions above and cross my fingers. lol

 

I will say a prayer for you tonight Dan....

 

lol, thanks. i didn't start it up yet cause allie's sleeping. i'll fire it up again tomorrow morning.

also, i'm not real clear on the whole relay thingy. 85 86 87 30 What goes to what?

 

I don't have a relay infront of me but I'll try.

Battery goes to 87
pump goes to 86
These 2 above are the switched wires

ignition wire(the old pump feed you are ussing) to 30
and the ground to the other terminal which I didn't think is 85 but might be.
These 2 are the coil (relay control) which is marked --II-- on the relay.

So,the truck doesn't even start and run? Or do you slap it in gear as soon as it starts (big no no)

Also,that truck is not loud.You must live in a retirement community

 

of course it starts and runs, but, stumbles like a mo fo. how long should i let it idle before putting it in gear? especially when it's -10 outside.

i'm going to fire it up this very moment. i'll give you a call in a bit. thanks brotha

 

I would give it at least 3 minutes to warm up on a normal day. When it is -10*....give it like 10 minutes before you start jammin gears.

 

even if its warm out the camaro sits for 3 minutes or so, i like the idle to settle and the o2 to be at stoich 14.7

 

wow, i had not a clue i needed to let it idle for that long. i was going like 30sec or so. see, not a turbo guy, lol. YET

 

and i also let it idle for that long before i shut it off, so i dont seize the turbo...AGAIN....

 

OK, here's the verdict. I followed the detailed instruction laid out by mr kinder including the very important part about letting the turbo warm up before driving the truck (oops, totally had not a clue about that part before today). All is well. The pump is still way too god damn loud, but that's my fault for buying it. I'm definately not used to driving a turbo vehicle, especially not a 6500lb turbo vehicle. I need to make some adjustments to the tranny settings.

otherwise, i'm 99% sure everything is okay. for now, lol

 

Glad you got it worked out Dan.

 

Thats great news!!!

 

nice dude! Don will take care of ya!