Looking for Brevard shop to turn off p1133 and p1153
#1
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I've talked to 1 local shop on the phone, and shown up twice, had a short, and one indepth discussion about the codes. The owner, imho, just isnt interested. The look he gives me, and all the runaround about doing it. Is this really a bigger deal then some people say in the tuning forum ? Car runs fine for the most part, it needs a full tune, but when those codes start throwing, it starts running crappy.
They are happening quicker the "cleaner" I get things. I have improved exhaust, done full seafoam treatment, cleaned MAF, recharged K&N, had trans flushed and filled, new filter, changed to 0w 30 oil, and a new fuel filter! Each time I fix something, then reset PCM with fuses, it runs better for a while. Got brand new O2 sensors, this morning, the Bosch ones, heated, rear vette ones.
Really ran great after that. By the time I drove to Merrit Isl and back (located in Rockledge), I had the light again, and performance differences.
Any tuners or other shop owners shed some light on why someone would be so resistant to me asking to have those 2 specific codes turned off, even after I explained what I have learned from here, and how car behaves before and after codes pop ? It sounds like this is the best way to deal with it, I have had exhaust checked for leaks as well. He mentioned about tuning the tables so everything would work correctly, I stated I dont have that kind of $$ right now, but I would like you to shut those 2 codes down. He wanted to talk to his LS1 guy. Owner mostly deals with imports, therein lies the rub ? I don't get it.
Or is he right ?
If you are a local shop, brevard county, shoot me a PM, lets work something out![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
Chewie
They are happening quicker the "cleaner" I get things. I have improved exhaust, done full seafoam treatment, cleaned MAF, recharged K&N, had trans flushed and filled, new filter, changed to 0w 30 oil, and a new fuel filter! Each time I fix something, then reset PCM with fuses, it runs better for a while. Got brand new O2 sensors, this morning, the Bosch ones, heated, rear vette ones.
Really ran great after that. By the time I drove to Merrit Isl and back (located in Rockledge), I had the light again, and performance differences.
Any tuners or other shop owners shed some light on why someone would be so resistant to me asking to have those 2 specific codes turned off, even after I explained what I have learned from here, and how car behaves before and after codes pop ? It sounds like this is the best way to deal with it, I have had exhaust checked for leaks as well. He mentioned about tuning the tables so everything would work correctly, I stated I dont have that kind of $$ right now, but I would like you to shut those 2 codes down. He wanted to talk to his LS1 guy. Owner mostly deals with imports, therein lies the rub ? I don't get it.
Or is he right ?
If you are a local shop, brevard county, shoot me a PM, lets work something out
![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
Chewie
Last edited by ChewieFL; 10-30-2008 at 02:06 PM. Reason: edited out name of shop
#2
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Emissions tampering is a good way to lose
your livelihood, for a legit shop. Sooner or
later you'll either be found out or ratted out.
That's why you are getting no love at shops
that operate on the up-and-up. And why
you don't "help" your "underground shop"
buddy by putting his name on the street.
Performance shops make an exception for
"race vehicles for off-road use" but if you
show up in an obvious daily driver they are
taking a $10K risk for a $400 paycheck.
Then all it takes is one pissed off customer
or competitor and there goes your bass
boat.
your livelihood, for a legit shop. Sooner or
later you'll either be found out or ratted out.
That's why you are getting no love at shops
that operate on the up-and-up. And why
you don't "help" your "underground shop"
buddy by putting his name on the street.
Performance shops make an exception for
"race vehicles for off-road use" but if you
show up in an obvious daily driver they are
taking a $10K risk for a $400 paycheck.
Then all it takes is one pissed off customer
or competitor and there goes your bass
boat.
#5
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1133 and 1153 are not the source of your performance problem and "turning" them off is not going to make your problem go away.
A good shop won't blindly re-affirm a customer's theory-they should be looking out for your best interest by being able to diagnose and offer a solid remedy in a reasonable amount of time.
From your post, if your car runs better after a pcm reset via pulling fuses then that tells me you are re-setting the fuel trims and probably have a leak and or bad airflow measurement sensor, (MAF or MAP).
A good shop won't blindly re-affirm a customer's theory-they should be looking out for your best interest by being able to diagnose and offer a solid remedy in a reasonable amount of time.
From your post, if your car runs better after a pcm reset via pulling fuses then that tells me you are re-setting the fuel trims and probably have a leak and or bad airflow measurement sensor, (MAF or MAP).
#6
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Argh. I see your point Doc. Wouldn't I get a code for MAF ? The car does have 90K on it so perhaps MAF is crapping out. I had thought it tune related, since every time I improve something, "it" (whatever it is) gets better, then worse.
One thing it does correctly and well, is idle. Always. I thought that ruled out a vaccum leak, so, perhaps I should look into a new MAF.
Thanks for the PM's all, I might need the MAF first.
Chewie
One thing it does correctly and well, is idle. Always. I thought that ruled out a vaccum leak, so, perhaps I should look into a new MAF.
Thanks for the PM's all, I might need the MAF first.
Chewie
#7
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1133 and 1153 are not the source of your performance problem and "turning" them off is not going to make your problem go away.
A good shop won't blindly re-affirm a customer's theory-they should be looking out for your best interest by being able to diagnose and offer a solid remedy in a reasonable amount of time.
From your post, if your car runs better after a pcm reset via pulling fuses then that tells me you are re-setting the fuel trims and probably have a leak and or bad airflow measurement sensor, (MAF or MAP).
A good shop won't blindly re-affirm a customer's theory-they should be looking out for your best interest by being able to diagnose and offer a solid remedy in a reasonable amount of time.
From your post, if your car runs better after a pcm reset via pulling fuses then that tells me you are re-setting the fuel trims and probably have a leak and or bad airflow measurement sensor, (MAF or MAP).
Sounds like you are telling me I have a different situation, where I have a prexisting problem, or perhaps a simultaneous one ? I really need to learn whats up exactly before I throw mroe $$ at it. Im about tapped out, I can only work 6 days a week
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Chewie
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I think you may have multiple problems, and
resetting the obvious codes with a fuse-pull
is also resetting stuff like fuel trims. Which
may or may not be entirely a sensor problem.
Though running well untrimmed and bad after
time, says the base tune is not-terrible and
is being driven worse by bogus feedback.
That is back to the sensors and related stuff
like exhaust heat.
Anyway, it does seem like you want more than
lights out, it needs time in the saddle looking
for strays. Your time and tools, or someone
else's.
resetting the obvious codes with a fuse-pull
is also resetting stuff like fuel trims. Which
may or may not be entirely a sensor problem.
Though running well untrimmed and bad after
time, says the base tune is not-terrible and
is being driven worse by bogus feedback.
That is back to the sensors and related stuff
like exhaust heat.
Anyway, it does seem like you want more than
lights out, it needs time in the saddle looking
for strays. Your time and tools, or someone
else's.
#9
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Thats the way to fix it right. Agreed. I talked again with the local shop, and firstly I apologized for my crankiness. I am going to work with them and a tuner that comes over from Orlando for the full dyno tune. However ...
Need the underlying problems diagnosed first.
Time and tools. I have time, but no tools.
Forum members I am willling to pay for your time and expertise, I have some parts available for trade, like an SLP Line Lock kit, boxed unopened, 2 stock 16" wheels from a WS6, some firearms related things as well (21 and up only).
Oh, and cash![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
If you have a wideband scanner, (and its necessary to use it), I can get an extra bung put in (which side/location ?).
Looking for someone with the tools to diagnose. I have heard "a good scan" with data log, will tell me a great deal, as long as the problem which is intermittent actually happens while driving.
I am down to MAF, MAP, Alternator, Battery, PCM, for causes.
PM me or post directly. Thanks again for the responses so far, pardon the 'tude if you feel I was throwing one around, just overwhelmed at the moment.
Chewie
Need the underlying problems diagnosed first.
Time and tools. I have time, but no tools.
Forum members I am willling to pay for your time and expertise, I have some parts available for trade, like an SLP Line Lock kit, boxed unopened, 2 stock 16" wheels from a WS6, some firearms related things as well (21 and up only).
Oh, and cash
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
If you have a wideband scanner, (and its necessary to use it), I can get an extra bung put in (which side/location ?).
Looking for someone with the tools to diagnose. I have heard "a good scan" with data log, will tell me a great deal, as long as the problem which is intermittent actually happens while driving.
I am down to MAF, MAP, Alternator, Battery, PCM, for causes.
PM me or post directly. Thanks again for the responses so far, pardon the 'tude if you feel I was throwing one around, just overwhelmed at the moment.
Chewie
#10
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Thanks for the help thus far. Did some driving tests, plugged/unplugged MAF, got some interesting results. Posting up in PCM forum, linking back here and my Newbie Tech thread.
Chewie
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1#post10399231
Chewie
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1#post10399231