Anyone in CFL good with wiring shorts?
04-03-2011, 09:04 AM
#1
Anyone in CFL good with wiring shorts? My engine sensor fuse regular blows every few days. On my car that circuit controls MAF, front & rear O2's and the reverse lockout solenoid. I do not have the rear O2's installed and the DTC's are disabled. I pulled the fuse and had continuity between the fuse socket and the MAF power connector on the MAF harness, so I don't think it's that. With the car on jack stands I can't see or feel any wiring problems on the other wiring.
Although I have a '98, I bought a used '99 Helms manual a few years back. It indicates for a multi-sensor fuse, you can somehow disconnect the sensor and use a DMM on the fuse block to detect which sensor is having the problem. I must be misunderstanding the verbage because that's not working for me. Any suggestions?
Although I have a '98, I bought a used '99 Helms manual a few years back. It indicates for a multi-sensor fuse, you can somehow disconnect the sensor and use a DMM on the fuse block to detect which sensor is having the problem. I must be misunderstanding the verbage because that's not working for me. Any suggestions?
04-03-2011, 09:37 AM
#2
pull fuse,disconnect everything on that circuit and take a reading to ground with VOM.
If youre lucky the fault is active and you can find it,if not be prepared for tracing wire route every inch to find a break or rub in insulation.
intermittent shorts are the hardest to find.
If youre lucky the fault is active and you can find it,if not be prepared for tracing wire route every inch to find a break or rub in insulation.
intermittent shorts are the hardest to find.
04-03-2011, 07:11 PM
#3
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While swapping out exhaust under my car I saw a lot
of cooked wires. It might be easiest to get under it
with a couple packs of that wire loom stuff and electrical
tape, and chase down the O2 sensor harnesses first.
If it's an intermittent touch between a burnt-insulation
O2 harness wire and the block / frame / coolant lines /
whatever, no amount of sitting-still diagnostic poking
is going to turn it up.
I would make a short list of all the sensors that depend
from ENG SEN, and hand chase them one by one from
the sensor back to the fuse block (or where it enters
a major bundle that looks clean, at least; nothing likely
to happen inside the main trunks if they are not breached).
I bet you find a bare spot somewhere.
Sometimes doing things the hard way is easiest.
of cooked wires. It might be easiest to get under it
with a couple packs of that wire loom stuff and electrical
tape, and chase down the O2 sensor harnesses first.
If it's an intermittent touch between a burnt-insulation
O2 harness wire and the block / frame / coolant lines /
whatever, no amount of sitting-still diagnostic poking
is going to turn it up.
I would make a short list of all the sensors that depend
from ENG SEN, and hand chase them one by one from
the sensor back to the fuse block (or where it enters
a major bundle that looks clean, at least; nothing likely
to happen inside the main trunks if they are not breached).
I bet you find a bare spot somewhere.
Sometimes doing things the hard way is easiest.
04-04-2011, 08:19 AM
#4
My engine sensor fuse regular blows every few days. On my car that circuit controls MAF, front & rear O2's and the reverse lockout solenoid. I do not have the rear O2's installed and the DTC's are disabled. I pulled the fuse and had continuity between the fuse socket and the MAF power connector on the MAF harness, so I don't think it's that. With the car on jack stands I can't see or feel any wiring problems on the other wiring.
Although I have a '98, I bought a used '99 Helms manual a few years back. It indicates for a multi-sensor fuse, you can somehow disconnect the sensor and use a DMM on the fuse block to detect which sensor is having the problem. I must be misunderstanding the verbage because that's not working for me. Any suggestions?
Although I have a '98, I bought a used '99 Helms manual a few years back. It indicates for a multi-sensor fuse, you can somehow disconnect the sensor and use a DMM on the fuse block to detect which sensor is having the problem. I must be misunderstanding the verbage because that's not working for me. Any suggestions?
Hey man how is your camaro with that LS3 motor? Get everything worked out?
04-04-2011, 10:00 AM
#5
Having a bit of a hard time with bucking below 2000RPM. Frost was assisting with the tuning, but the bucking wasn't showing up in the logs so he didn't know where to go with it from what I remember. I think he said others who did what I did got their bucking to go away with a MAF. He recommended and I bought a TSP 100MM MAF and installed it, then my LM-1 died and I bought a AFX wideband. While I was waiting for the AFX I started getting the fuse regularly. So now I have the parts, but I just keep replacing the fuse to try to get the bucking tuned out. O2's aren't cycling at all, so I'm not sure if that's the wiring or the sensors.
04-04-2011, 10:54 AM
#7
Rob did find a damaged O2 wire near on the passenger side about a month ago and I had Holler fix that. They didn't easily see any other damaged wires.
I don't recall anyone telling me that I had any messed up connectors found while they were working on the car. I asked Chris on 3/15 if he was interested in earning some money to find the shorts, and he didn't make any comments alluding to known problems the last times he had been under the car.
I don't recall anyone telling me that I had any messed up connectors found while they were working on the car. I asked Chris on 3/15 if he was interested in earning some money to find the shorts, and he didn't make any comments alluding to known problems the last times he had been under the car.
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04-04-2011, 12:58 PM
#8
Having a bit of a hard time with bucking below 2000RPM. Frost was assisting with the tuning, but the bucking wasn't showing up in the logs so he didn't know where to go with it from what I remember. I think he said others who did what I did got their bucking to go away with a MAF. He recommended and I bought a TSP 100MM MAF and installed it, then my LM-1 died and I bought a AFX wideband. While I was waiting for the AFX I started getting the fuse regularly. So now I have the parts, but I just keep replacing the fuse to try to get the bucking tuned out. O2's aren't cycling at all, so I'm not sure if that's the wiring or the sensors.
I had an LS3 swapped 98 car here the other week and thought about you.
It bucked badly down low fuel related. In OL running it at 14.0-14.2ish I could get rid of almost all of it. It was not airflow or timing related. When I put it in closed loop (even trying to move switch points) it just bucked. It just didn't seem to like the leaner nature of closed loop. I had a big H/C LS7 in a 2010 SS that was the same way and ended up having to leave the car OL MAF. It was smooth as butter and didn't have any mixture wander (like OLSD ont he older cars) but as soon as you enable CL, it was back to jerky.
04-12-2011, 07:51 AM
#9
Rob did find a damaged O2 wire near on the passenger side about a month ago and I had Holler fix that. They didn't easily see any other damaged wires.
I don't recall anyone telling me that I had any messed up connectors found while they were working on the car. I asked Chris on 3/15 if he was interested in earning some money to find the shorts, and he didn't make any comments alluding to known problems the last times he had been under the car.
I don't recall anyone telling me that I had any messed up connectors found while they were working on the car. I asked Chris on 3/15 if he was interested in earning some money to find the shorts, and he didn't make any comments alluding to known problems the last times he had been under the car.
