Granted my first time out at the 1/4 track, but I wasn't happy running mid 14's@103mph. 
track rant
Originally Posted by deanasdork
i'm a wuss when it comes to dumping.. because of the stock rear ****.
Without risk there is no reward.
OSW does suck as far as traction goes, especially when it's hot. I used Nitto DR's to hit my 11's on juice and 12's on motor. I had no problem with them. you just need alittle more practice. don't get discouraged. good luck.
I wouldn't dump the clutch, just do a fast slip.
That's how I ran 12.35 @ 113 MPH with a 1.78 60' with my bolt on full weight 3:73's 98 Z28 with a full tank of gas. The car dynoed 336 RWHP 348 RWTQ without a tune (only thing available at the time was Hypertech) Tires were 16" Nitto DR's.
Do an 8 second burnout at 5-6K rpm, roll straight to the line, bring the rpms to 4500-5000, as you let the clutch out add more throttle the clutch should be fully engaged and your foot should be to the floor within the first 5-8 feet of movement. If the car bogs bring the rpms up until you find what the car and track will tolerate.
If you want to be more consistent invest in a shiftlight. You want to have it come on 200 RPMs before you want to shift, by the time you see the light and actually shift should be no more than 200 RPM.
It takes practice and the inconsistent prep at OSW doesn't make it any easier.
When you have the $$$ get yourself a Moser 12 bolt and have Donny over at Advanced Driveline set it up, don't have it done by Moser. Then throw some slicks and skinnies on and side step the clutch at 7K........now that's a fun ride.
Good luck.
That's how I ran 12.35 @ 113 MPH with a 1.78 60' with my bolt on full weight 3:73's 98 Z28 with a full tank of gas. The car dynoed 336 RWHP 348 RWTQ without a tune (only thing available at the time was Hypertech) Tires were 16" Nitto DR's.
Do an 8 second burnout at 5-6K rpm, roll straight to the line, bring the rpms to 4500-5000, as you let the clutch out add more throttle the clutch should be fully engaged and your foot should be to the floor within the first 5-8 feet of movement. If the car bogs bring the rpms up until you find what the car and track will tolerate.
If you want to be more consistent invest in a shiftlight. You want to have it come on 200 RPMs before you want to shift, by the time you see the light and actually shift should be no more than 200 RPM.
It takes practice and the inconsistent prep at OSW doesn't make it any easier.
When you have the $$$ get yourself a Moser 12 bolt and have Donny over at Advanced Driveline set it up, don't have it done by Moser. Then throw some slicks and skinnies on and side step the clutch at 7K........now that's a fun ride.
Good luck.
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Get better on the tree, practice, practice, practice, it will help with ur 60. With those who think R/T has nothing to do with nuttin. R/T can determine whether you win or lose. Remember the clock starts when your green and if your sittin then your losin
Originally Posted by 3fingas
Get better on the tree, practice, practice, practice, it will help with ur 60. With those who think R/T has nothing to do with nuttin. R/T can determine whether you win or lose. Remember the clock starts when your green and if your sittin then your losin
so again R/T has nothing to do with nuttin, when it comes to ET. if you were bracket racing, then it plays a role. but ET, it makes NO DIFFERENCE.
Originally Posted by 3fingas
Get better on the tree, practice, practice, practice, it will help with ur 60. With those who think R/T has nothing to do with nuttin. R/T can determine whether you win or lose. Remember the clock starts when your green and if your sittin then your losin
sorry homes.
Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
maybe this is how its taught in da bronx, but the rest of the tracks across this country - R/T has NOTHING to do with your Elapsed Time or MPH.
sorry homes.
sorry homes.
Originally Posted by 3fingas
IMO Im sayin his r/t could be better. All it takes is practice.
Originally Posted by 3fingas
Get better on the tree, practice, practice, practice, it will help with ur 60.
I dont know where you people learned how to race, but its obvious you never made any money doin it. I understand that physicaly it has nothing to do with his et. However. if his (not the car) reaction is faster, he will be at wot faster. from his times vs. HP he should be quicker correct? Assuming he is in the grove and the car is hooking up. Sounds like he needs a lock.. Don't hate...Ejaculate!
Originally Posted by 3fingas
I dont know where you people learned how to race, but its obvious you never made any money doin it. I understand that physicaly it has nothing to do with his et. However. if his (not the car) reaction is faster, he will be at wot faster. from his times vs. HP he should be quicker correct? Assuming he is in the grove and the car is hooking up. Sounds like he needs a lock.. Don't hate...Ejaculate!
just for you. the two timeslips on the left. why did i go slower with a quicker RT? spend some time on the track.
Originally Posted by 3fingas
Get better on the tree, practice, practice, practice, it will help with ur 60. With those who think R/T has nothing to do with nuttin. R/T can determine whether you win or lose. Remember the clock starts when your green and if your sittin then your losin