I just seized up my motor and depending on whether or not I have cylinder wall damage will depend on which direction I take. My LS2 block is already overbored at 4.035 so if it wont hone out, I will have to scrap the block. I will have some options at that point. Depending on what I can salvage of my stroker rotating assembly I may go turbo. I have a friend that is giving me a great deal on a PT88 that he ran for a short time on his Buick T-type. He was able to get a 9.0 1/4 mile out of it before he took it apart to go faster. So that's the back story.

I will start off by saying that I know very little about turbos. I have been doing lots of reading and trying to get myself edumacated on this stuff. I will definetly be going with truck manifolds. I know that backpressure is what lifts the heads and it isn't all that hard to do with our standard 4 bolts/cyl blocks. I see that many have run the PT88 behind a 408 w/ truck manifolds but is this ideal? Should I perhaps consider putting my 4" crank and 6.2" rods in a stock LS1 block that I have in my shop (my original 98' block) with a dished 3.9" piston in order to drop the cubes a little to 383 or so? Or am I better of buying an iron block?

My goals are about 900rwhp (8.8-9.0 in the 1/4) on high boost (race gas) and a pump gas friendly 700rwhp. I would like to achieve this goal with an air to air intercooler and maybe some meth inj down the road. I will be running Mamo ported AFR225's and either an epoxyd together ported FAST 90 or the new FiberTuned intake. I was thinking that for a cam I might use something like a Comp XER 238/234 with a 116 LSA or so opting for the reverse split due to the small flange and restrictive truck manifolds.

What is the most inexpensive option for fueling this thing? I currently have 42# injectors and a Racetronix plug and play pump in the back with stock fuel lines. I think that I will need 80# injectors and a second pump but can this be done inside the tank without sump'ing it? Can I buy injectors that wont require any kind of special controller?

I am going to do it with the stock PCM as I am already running the 3 bar speed density operating system from HPTuners. Although this will be my first crack at FI (tuning wise) I am very comfortable with the software.

My only other problem is that I run a Strange 60 rear end which, I think, will not allow me to gear down below the 3.73's that I am currently running.

Thanks for the input.

 

I think you can gear down to a 3.55 or 3.50 with the S60. I'm not 100% positive though. Good luck! Hopefully you'll be able to use those 325 M/T's my buddy just sold you sooner than later.

 

Just called Strange. I guess it is a 3-series so I can go down to a 3.54 gear. One problem solved.

 

Subscribed! I'm sort of new to turbocharging but 9's and 900rwhp seem's like a realistic goal with this turbo. I beleive there are a few people running this on the site if you do a search, I know PurEvl and SmokenHawk use this turbo. I was originally gonna use a TC78 for my 6.0l truck manifold build but after looking around I think the PT88 w/t4 flange would work better for my goals. From what I've read it looks like the t4 PT88 will work well on a 364-408ci motor and not run into as many backpressure issues as the 78 I had originally planned to use.

I know 60# injectors and a boost reference fuel pressure regulator have been pushed into the 900+rwhp, I'll have to dig around to see who was doing it, I'm not sure what pump setup they were on off the top of my head either may have been external. I think you'll be on or over the limit with the dual intank pumps and stock fuel lines running 900rwhp.

 

I found this write up for the dual intank pumps.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...ick-cheap.html
I will be doing this. Sounds like a boost refferenced fuel pressure regulator will be required. I know that in the Fbodies the regulator is in the tank and the return is back before the filter. Can you remove the regulator in the tank and put the referenced regulator inline between the tank and where it t's off? I have never seen one of these regulators (wonder if it's the same as the regultator on my Harris Speed Works dedicated fuel cell). I imagine that a vacuum line would have to be run back there so it might have a slow response? Not sure how that would work.

 

Yeah I've seen that write-up before, I'm gonna be going with a Lonnies dual pump kit saves me the head ache and I know it's done right, not a bad price either. I think you can just gut the stock regulator and leave it in there or pull the stock one out and run a new line where it previously was, then mount the new regulator up in the engine bay, run new line from the fpr to the rails and a vacuum line from the manifold or other vacuum source to the fpr.

Here's a thread with different fuel system setups post-pics-up-your-aftermarket-fuel-system you can see the fuel pressure regulator in most of them. Looks like the thread even show's you how to convert the stock fuel system to a return style.

 

With boost you should have a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure is raised not to increase fueling, but to make up for the increased pressure on the intake manifold end of the injector.

Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't all F-bodies return style???

 

Incorrect. With a boost regulated fuel pressure regulator,
the objective is to gain more fuel pressure to deliver more fuel as the boost go's up. If not then you are stuck with a preset fuel pressure and you will lean out on the higher rpm's and higher boost.This is why it is important to have adequate fuel pumps.I am sure the extra pressure helps on the end of the injector, but not the reason for the FPR.Preset at 50psi, then as the boost go's up to 10psi, you should have 60psi of fuel pressure. More power needs more fuel!

 

I made 920rwhp with the 60's!

 

mines a 402 with a pte88-47 and it hauls.But im sure a stock stroke would work well too.
Racetronix has those new 79lbers high impedance

 

Actually you're both correct lol.

The flow rate across the injector is determined by the pressure drop across the injector. As pressure builds on the manifold side, pressure must rise on the rail side to compensate and maintain *consistant* fueling. Maintaining the correct pressure drop allows to spray more fuel than boost building alone on the manifold side.

If you look at the IFR table, the flow rate rises with manifold vacuum, aka large pressure drop across the injector. Since we can't change the fuel pressure with the stock system, we have to have a chart to reference the changing fuel flowrate across the injector at different driving conditions (manifold pressure).

Increasing pressure with the same flow rate, or increasing the flow rate with the same pressure both demand more pump power. We increase both flow rate and pressure. We have a double whammy working against us when we try to fuel boosted cars. This is why we have to have such Chuck-Norris-esque fuel pumps.

 

That's interesting, my 50's ran out of steam at about 630RWHP (A4) and were at something like 130% duty cycle, now I have 75's lol.

 

i would say 300-380 cubs is what you want to be around fro that turbo, depending of coarse how high you want to rev your engine.
with my 347 i really need to rev it to 7500, with around 380 i would say you only would need to rev it around 6500, a 300 probably around 8500
i dont think there are any maps for that specific turbo, but looking at similar 88mm maps is seem like what you would want.
now with my 347 i can feel that it wants to be rev'ed around 7500, as the thing starts to scream.

 

I could be wrong but it is my understanding that blowers require a bit more fuel to acheive the same power numbers as a turbo setup. Has to do with efficiency and parasitic drag.

 

ill speak on this. I run a PT88 on a 293ci motor i shift around 7200 and have seen7600 a few times and the turbo does prefer the higher rpms, hits extremely hard around 4500rpms. This turbo deff screams up high

 

Did you just run higher pressure to compensate?

I have the HSW dedicated fuel cell for the nitrous. The regulator has a vacuum port. Could I take this thing apart and put the walbro in the tank with the other walbro that came with the racetronix and use the regulator for my return setup? I'll have to run -8 from the tank to the rails and return using the stock lines like mighty mouse. Then I just need the fittings, a filter (as the stock one will be deleted on the return side) and some fuel hose.

It sounds like more cubes = less rpms so it's not as hard on ****. Probably stick to the 408.

 

If you FPR has a vacuum port than yes. Hook a vacuum line to the port and the other end to the manifold.I had alot of fuel pressure to achieve those #'s.
Normal pressure was at appx.55-58psi, and then under boost it would go up to 76psi! Injectors are rated at factory psi, which I think is 42psi? So by adding 30more psi to it, it turned my 60's into something like 75lb. injectors.
I will say, my duty cycle was set on kill for this to work, and wasn't the safest, but it worked well for 2 year's!

 

Yep I thought you were the one that did but wasn't 100% sure.

 

Thanks for the info guys! I have formulated a plan of attack. I have a friend that is selling a stock 6.0 iron long block that is in good shape for very very cheap. I am going to pull my LS2 block out and put in the iron block. I will throw my AFR225's on it and it already has a stock 03 Z06 cam that will be good enough for now. I'll find some truck manifolds and get the build going around the PT88. I'll keep the boost down and work out all the bugs and buy all the supporting controllers and such. Once I'm ready to turn it up, I'll pull the motor and make it a forged 408. Who knows, by then I may be ready for a bigger turbo.

 

Good luck with the build, sounds just like mine minus the AFR's.