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LQ9 6.0L PT88 w/ Truck Manifolds in an FBody Build w/ Pics

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Old 06-27-2009, 07:21 PM
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FTI is bad ***, I'm sure that thing will rip.
Old 06-27-2009, 09:33 PM
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So how many of you kept glancing at your mig welder on the bench next to the computer after reading each page on this thread?... I sure as hell did
Old 07-25-2009, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by KurtRardin
So how many of you kept glancing at your mig welder on the bench next to the computer after reading each page on this thread?... I sure as hell did
I'll tell you the same thing I told my buddies that did all the welding for me. "It ain't gonna weld itself!"

Getting a little frustrated. Still haven't figured out where my boost went.



About 2 weeks ago I finally got around to pressurizing the cold side and try to hunt down my boost leak. Everything seemd tight. The only air that I was able to find escaping was around the injector orings. I found that the bolts that hold down the fuel rails were a little loose. Tightened it all up, took it for a blast and same ****. down 2 lbs on the spring and about 4-5 lbs on the manual controller.



To be clear, boost isn't falling off. Everything seems fine and behaving exactly the same as before. I am just not getting to the same boost levels with the same setup.



I decided to pop off the wastegate and inspect it. I found that the diaphragm had a small tear in it. The diaphragm that these cheap X02 Wastegates use is cheap garbage. I found out that you can use the much better diaphragm from a TiAL instead so I ordered one and put it in. Same ****. And now I think I have a vacuum leak because the car is idling about 100-150 rpm higher. I'm getting frustrated.
Old 07-25-2009, 12:47 PM
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are you still on stock valve springs?
Old 07-25-2009, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by eviltwin_1987
are you still on stock valve springs?
Stock everything in the long block except the push rods.
Old 07-25-2009, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I'll tell you the same thing I told my buddies that did all the welding for me. "It ain't gonna weld itself!"
I used my lincoln mig for the first time last weekend, and after about 30 minutes of welding I feel pretty confident in my ability to make an exhaust system. So, I guess I'm one step closer to building my own, lol. I might try a few simple exhaust mods to my car right now before I try building a turbo kit from scratch. Since I'd like to run a 4" down pipe to the rear in the future, I don't see the harm (or waste) in removing the 3" catback completely and running a 4" pipe over the axle (from my current 4" Y pipe) to a 4" muffler, like a magnaflow. Trying to fab up a 4" pipe to run over the axle out of premade mandrel bends is going to be pretty tricky in itself. Id say it would make for great practice for working in tight areas... plus I could use it later in my turbo build, so its not wasted work. And I supose it would improve the "right now" flow and sound
Old 07-25-2009, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
Stock everything in the long block except the push rods.
I'd be looking at your valve springs then.
Old 07-25-2009, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Camarod
I'd be looking at your valve springs then.
I know they should be changed but why would this symptom have anything to do with valve springs. I'm defintly not floating valves. It runs perfect. It's just making less boost on the mechanical gage and the MAP sensor.

Originally Posted by KurtRardin
I used my lincoln mig for the first time last weekend, and after about 30 minutes of welding I feel pretty confident in my ability to make an exhaust system. So, I guess I'm one step closer to building my own, lol. I might try a few simple exhaust mods to my car right now before I try building a turbo kit from scratch. Since I'd like to run a 4" down pipe to the rear in the future, I don't see the harm (or waste) in removing the 3" catback completely and running a 4" pipe over the axle (from my current 4" Y pipe) to a 4" muffler, like a magnaflow. Trying to fab up a 4" pipe to run over the axle out of premade mandrel bends is going to be pretty tricky in itself. Id say it would make for great practice for working in tight areas... plus I could use it later in my turbo build, so its not wasted work. And I supose it would improve the "right now" flow and sound
Single 4" flows well. It was not easy getting it out of the engine compartment.
Old 07-25-2009, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I know they should be changed but why would this symptom have anything to do with valve springs. I'm defintly not floating valves. It runs perfect. It's just making less boost on the mechanical gage and the MAP sensor.
It doesn't run perfect if your boost is leaving, which the valves could easily allow it to pass by if they aren't up to the task.
Old 07-25-2009, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
Single 4" flows well. It was not easy getting it out of the engine compartment.
You used the BMR Turbo K member, right? I plan on going with one of those so I might have a little better luck getting that thing out of the engine compartment and hooked into a 4" exhaust routed to the rear. I bet it would be hell to get a 4" pipe out without cutting a hole in the fender or bumper, lol.
Old 07-25-2009, 11:41 PM
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well i am hoping to get a 4" pipe with my stock k-member. i installed a set of spohn solid mounts and it free up some room

Old 07-26-2009, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I know they should be changed but why would this symptom have anything to do with valve springs. I'm defintly not floating valves. It runs perfect. It's just making less boost on the mechanical gage and the MAP sensor.
Stupid question, but are you positive the gauge is accurate?
Old 07-26-2009, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by The Beast
Stupid question, but are you positive the gauge is accurate?
He said the gauge and the map sensor read the same thing, so I'd say that it is good. But I suppose they both could be bad
Old 07-26-2009, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by The Beast
Stupid question, but are you positive the gauge is accurate?
Since the mechanical boost gage is reading the same as the 2 bar MAP sensor and one reads it from the front of the intake and the other from the back, I'd say that I am really down on boost. My butt meter agrees as well.

Originally Posted by 98Camarod
It doesn't run perfect if your boost is leaving, which the valves could easily allow it to pass by if they aren't up to the task.
But that would mean that they were floating and they aren't.
Old 07-26-2009, 12:34 PM
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Whats the KPA, before the loss of boost and after? What is ambient temp compared to those 2 as well? As it gets hotter, it will be lazy, when it cools down and becomes turbo weather, you will find out its just strait nasty in cold weather.

How are your gaskets leading into the turbo? Loss of back pressure will hurt it too, even though the gate should absorb it, thats not always the case.
Old 07-26-2009, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Camarod
He said the gauge and the map sensor read the same thing, so I'd say that it is good. But I suppose they both could be bad
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
Since the mechanical boost gage is reading the same as the 2 bar MAP sensor and one reads it from the front of the intake and the other from the back, I'd say that I am really down on boost. My butt meter agrees as well.
Sorry, I missed that. I figured you would have checked the accuracy, but just wanted to make sure

Do you have a boost controller? Anyone you know have a gate you're sure is working properly that you can throw on your car real quick (could be a weak spring or something else internal in the gate)? Also might want to fix the vaccuum leak and see if that doesn't fix your boost issue.
Old 07-26-2009, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Louis
Whats the KPA, before the loss of boost and after? What is ambient temp compared to those 2 as well? As it gets hotter, it will be lazy, when it cools down and becomes turbo weather, you will find out its just strait nasty in cold weather.

How are your gaskets leading into the turbo? Loss of back pressure will hurt it too, even though the gate should absorb it, thats not always the case.
I was JUST pegging the 2 bar MAP at 210 KPA before and now only seeing 170's if I remember correctly from my last scan. I only scanned it to verify that the mechanical gage was correct. Temps have been within 10 degrees of each other (85*-95*).

My biggest frustration is that I dont have enough experience with turbos in order to know the symptoms of a cold side leak/problem vs a hot side leak/problem. How can you tell if the BOV is maintaining a lower boost level vs the wastegate?

Here's the entire story leading up to this problem. I took the car to the track. I made a 10.teen pass at almost 135 MPH which was good considering the weather being really hot. 2nd pass sometime just before the 1/8 mile I felt the boost drop off about 3-4 lbs and continued the pass with a 10.5x. Then the rain came. I took out the torque converter and sent it out to get tightened up 1K RPM (it was loose still from my previous setup). I put the car back together and I have been missing the boost since.

I pressurized the cold side and found that I was leaking around the injector orings. Tightened the fuel rails down and fixed that but apparently that wasn't the problem. Took out the wastegate and found a pinhole in the diaphragm. Replaced it and same problem. I'm pretty sure that NOW I have a vacum leak since it's idling a little higher than normal. Haven't felt like looking at it in a couple days.
Old 07-26-2009, 07:33 PM
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call me at the shop tomorrow, number is in the sig. I can help, or atleast try to point you in the right direction.
Old 07-27-2009, 11:43 AM
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An damage to either hot or cold side blades? broken/missing?

Any oil leaks? Like under the valley cover? waste gate line torn or kinked? Booster line to the manifold issue? Fittings to the manifold? Your running the fiber tuned right? Any hairline cracks anywhere? Sorry if these sound like stupid questions, I know your a smart dude,..just asking normal checklist questions.
Old 07-28-2009, 01:04 PM
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I checked all that last time around when I found the tear in the diaphragm and the leak around the injectors. I need to do it again as soon as my buddies garage becomes available again. With all the rain that we've been getting, working on my car outside with all the mosquitos is not an option out here in the swamp.


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