Cheapest you can do a diy turbo?
#22
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I'll be around 6k invested when done with mine including fuel/tuning/guages etc. Was probably around 2500-3000 for just the turbo hot/cold side, intercooler, wastegate, bov etc.
#24
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All you need is the essentials....the actual means of connecting it can vary, the hotside is nothing but an exhaust system connecting everything. So you can do the piping for less than $100. if you have any know how of how to rig up some exhaust pipes.
Mines all stock never been rebuilt running 15psi and a 50 shot of spray. 3 years and still running like a dream.
Mines all stock never been rebuilt running 15psi and a 50 shot of spray. 3 years and still running like a dream.
#25
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All you need is the essentials....the actual means of connecting it can vary, the hotside is nothing but an exhaust system connecting everything. So you can do the piping for less than $100. if you have any know how of how to rig up some exhaust pipes.
Mines all stock never been rebuilt running 15psi and a 50 shot of spray. 3 years and still running like a dream.
Mines all stock never been rebuilt running 15psi and a 50 shot of spray. 3 years and still running like a dream.
#26
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Not every college kid has 3700$ laying around, or means of saving up that kind of money anytime soon. Not to mention I am going to need a rearend at some point soon.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
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Not every college kid has 3700$ laying around, or means of saving up that kind of money anytime soon. Not to mention I am going to need a rearend at some point soon.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
#28
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Not every college kid has 3700$ laying around, or means of saving up that kind of money anytime soon. Not to mention I am going to need a rearend at some point soon.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
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Not every college kid has 3700$ laying around, or means of saving up that kind of money anytime soon. Not to mention I am going to need a rearend at some point soon.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
I think if I shop around and sell off my nitrous stuff/stuff that I wont need anymore, depending on if i want fm or rearmount, i can get away with shelling out a grand or so.
I already have fuel, tuning, etc taken care of.
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since December, I have purchased a 370 from speedinc and a bunch of other things (my checking account hated me that week
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#31
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-boost ref regulator and rails
-power steering lines
-coil relocation
-eboost2
-solid mounts
-hood
Those alone are expensive, just trying to give you a heads up thats all.
#32
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ive been keeping tabs on this thread, as i have had my car about a month and cant really figure out what my plans will be for it. a budget turbo build sounds really great, so i hope the info keeps coming, for me and for other inquiring minds. something that has de. helped me is these lists of everything you guys DID NOT expect to pay for. so far im gathering that you can get away with everything minues fueling/tuning/etc. for around 3500-6000, for the most part. keep ti coming guys, this could turn out to be a great thread! sorry for the newb post lol.
#33
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The essentials I wouldnt skimp out on. A wastegate, injectors and the turbo are all your key components. Then you can use an ebay intercooler, ebay BOV, and if you run truck manifolds all you need to get the exhaust from there to the turbo is some exhaust pipe from your parts store. A couple $5. elbows and your good to go, theres no science behind the exhaust from the head to the turbo even though people think those headers should cost more than a set of regular headers. If I was on an extreme budget and didnt make all the headers out of stainless, cost would be really cheap.
Turbo. Master power - $700ish new
wastegate $350-400. new
Intercooler and all the piping and elbows for it $189. Ebay new.
Injectors - $350 (60#) new
BOV - $50 ebay
Hot side piping - w/ flanges from old exhaust system. Less than $50 complete.
3" to 4" rubber elbow to go into the throttlebody $25.
2 bar map sensor $40 (?)
Threaded LT1 IAT sensor $20 (?)
Beyond that fuel system and tuning. I'd just add another pump to the one you got. Cheap and easy.
The BMW in my sig is a budget built car that even with the stainless headers doesnt even come close to adding up to $3k. and thats including the engine and trans also, and it doesnt look like a budget build by any means.
Turbo. Master power - $700ish new
wastegate $350-400. new
Intercooler and all the piping and elbows for it $189. Ebay new.
Injectors - $350 (60#) new
BOV - $50 ebay
Hot side piping - w/ flanges from old exhaust system. Less than $50 complete.
3" to 4" rubber elbow to go into the throttlebody $25.
2 bar map sensor $40 (?)
Threaded LT1 IAT sensor $20 (?)
Beyond that fuel system and tuning. I'd just add another pump to the one you got. Cheap and easy.
The BMW in my sig is a budget built car that even with the stainless headers doesnt even come close to adding up to $3k. and thats including the engine and trans also, and it doesnt look like a budget build by any means.
#35
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Do'nt cheap on a wastegate..intercooler and blow off well not as critical although cheap intercoolers can leak and not be very efficient ,cheap blow offs could potentially hurt the turbo. But cheap gate can take out your engine pretty easily. Buy name brand name gates and make sure they are not knock offs. Tial or turbosmart are two good ones.
#37
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Is this 7 to 8psi setup going to be a stock engine? For sure 100% then. Your gate lets you go past 7 or so and boom goodbye stock engine .On a forged engine still good to have proper boost. Now not sure if some of those cheaper turbos have internal gates or not. If they have internal then not talking about same thing. Externals usually give better boost control but internals can work ok. most factory setups are internal gates.
You can start cheaping out in a few areas but sooner or you later it will bite you in the ***.
The reason this stuff isn't that cheap is all the related stuff. You still need tuning for even 7 psi. In fact it better be dead on. You need like 42 or 60 pound injectors, you need a good fuel pump not stock.
You will need upgrades to stock auto trans they are pretty weak,better clutch in standard car. Better rearend if you put sticky tires on especially if you have an auto.Better valve springs.Different heads if you want to run much past 7psi maybe to 8 or 10psi.
Piping well if you get non beaded might be seeing you couplers blow off a lot. Cheap silicone couplers can also not work so good as can cheap clamps.T bolt are best in that area with quality silicone.
You can go cheaper on intercoolers although wouldn't personally. You can even run alc/injection and no intercooler and still do pretty good.
As said we have local guy with forged engine with master power turbo some gate I have never heard of think jgz or something and same blow off.It was doing ok last season low 11s at 126mph but not sure what happened he was a lot slower so far this season but not blaming setup not sure whats up This is in a third gen. And still think it was around 3000 or so for his turbo,piping, gate and blow off, fuel support, tuning.He is on stock rearend and stock trans but not for much longer it will die. At least he did his engine.
You can start cheaping out in a few areas but sooner or you later it will bite you in the ***.
The reason this stuff isn't that cheap is all the related stuff. You still need tuning for even 7 psi. In fact it better be dead on. You need like 42 or 60 pound injectors, you need a good fuel pump not stock.
You will need upgrades to stock auto trans they are pretty weak,better clutch in standard car. Better rearend if you put sticky tires on especially if you have an auto.Better valve springs.Different heads if you want to run much past 7psi maybe to 8 or 10psi.
Piping well if you get non beaded might be seeing you couplers blow off a lot. Cheap silicone couplers can also not work so good as can cheap clamps.T bolt are best in that area with quality silicone.
You can go cheaper on intercoolers although wouldn't personally. You can even run alc/injection and no intercooler and still do pretty good.
As said we have local guy with forged engine with master power turbo some gate I have never heard of think jgz or something and same blow off.It was doing ok last season low 11s at 126mph but not sure what happened he was a lot slower so far this season but not blaming setup not sure whats up This is in a third gen. And still think it was around 3000 or so for his turbo,piping, gate and blow off, fuel support, tuning.He is on stock rearend and stock trans but not for much longer it will die. At least he did his engine.
#38
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Doesnt matter how much boost you run, if a cheap wastegate fails you'll have no boost or as much boost as the turbo can crank out... = really fast for a second then BOOM and a yard sale of parts laying everywhere. The one thing not to go cheap on is the wastegate....it controls all.
My old procharged setup I used a $20 BOV off ebay that came stock on a talon or something of the nature. It worked fine. Intercoolers on ebay are pretty good. Pressure test it before you put it in and if it leaks send it back, they are garanteed not to leak if you buy a new one from a parts dealer on there.
My old procharged setup I used a $20 BOV off ebay that came stock on a talon or something of the nature. It worked fine. Intercoolers on ebay are pretty good. Pressure test it before you put it in and if it leaks send it back, they are garanteed not to leak if you buy a new one from a parts dealer on there.