jdmille5

How Much Rwhp Can Stock Ls1 Hold Safely? I Want To Put A Turbo On It To Make That Hp. Done The Road I Will Put All Forged Internals So I Can Crank Up The Boost. What Turbo Sustem Would You Put On It, I Do Not Want To Have To Get A Bigger Turbo Down The Road. I Just Want To Be Able To Crank Up The Boost To Make The Hp Needed. My Goal Is To Be Able To Drive Down To The Drag Strip With My 20+ Mpg And Race Running In The Low 6's In The 1/8th And Low 10's In 1/2. I Have A 6speed In A 3300lbs Car With Me In It. Ill Put Slicks On It. What Do You Suggest I Need Hp Wise And Turbo Wise?

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Do the motor first and then to the turbo so it all doesnt have to come off when you break something..... and sooner or later you will.

BIGBOS

I agree, build it backwards, it will work better, start with the driveline...

CHRISPY

I agree

Work from the back of the car forward

If you are dragging the car:

12 bolt
Complete Fuel system
rims/slicks
torque arm/LCAs/PHR/airbag
driveshaft
clutch/shifter
subframes and rollbar
internal/external motor work
Turbo and tuning
skinnies
etc etc

Then you are all set

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You could go low 10's with a stock longblock if you made like 600rwhp.

I've seen folks make like 500-525rwhp with a stock longblock, anyone make 600rwhp?

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

local incon car has made 600 RWHP (mustang dyno w/ race gas)

bottom 11's, high 10's
6 speed
3900 lbs
my 10" hoosier drags

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

On what gas?

S_J_H

pet peeve of mine-
what's with all these heavy *** blown cars?
I see guys with a lot of power but run slow et's post their cars are 3800-to even 4000lbs!
Let me ask a little question here..
Are a bunch of you guys visiting the local Krispy Kreme a bit to often?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

3900 raceweight is like a stock Z/28 with extra parts and a 6 pt cage = no weight reduction = hard on parts

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

if its steniod's car your talking about you should see the torgue curve it is amazing

ChevyNo1

SJH . . . I'm one of those guys @ 3800 . . .

I want to lose weight, but don't want to strip my car in the process. Just trying to make my streetcar as fast as possible.

- Dug

jdmille5

was it a completely stock engine?

jdmille5

ill put 100 octane in it to race.

rod442

I am probably making close to 600 rwhp at this point. I do however have unported 6.0l heads, on my stock bottom end now.

If you do the math on 3860 raceweight, and 129 trap speeds, its making power. 10 psi, on a 50/50 mix of 104 and 93 unleaded. However, I have been driving on the street for 3 weeks now at 10 psi and run 93 or 94 octane. No knock. A/F at 8.5-9 psi on the last dyno pull before the heads was 11.5:1.

Maybe I can get a couple dyno pulls done in the next few days to see how much it really is. Harlan, you listening? Call greg and get me a hookup .

Or maybe I should really go silly and call the dynojet place. Wonder if I could make 650 on one of those?

Oh, forgot the mention, I have 30K miles on the car with the turbo kit on now. (knock on wood). So they can hold up decent.

Shinobi'sZ

I have held 610rwhp and 545 rwtq. However some detonation lunched my motor. Naturally the ring lans let go. The crank is well supported but its limitations probably start to be reached between 700-750bhp. The rods are a "Powdered" Heat treated (forged but not the same) and should be good for 450bhp (although I know of a set of Eagle 6.125" rods, good for 650bhp with Diamond Pistons, that bent every single rod without the ring lans breaking or any damage to the piston...I guess they are called diamond for a reason). The LSx uses Hyperutetic Pistons. They have a very high silica content, they do not expand. This is why stock LS1 tolerances are very tight from the factory .002. They will be the first thing to go without out a doubt on a stock motor. You could drive it until it breaks like I did and many others have. Howerver you run a risk of damaging the block if a broke piece makes its way somewhere or simply scars the cylinder walls...which are only good for a .010 overbore.
You should consider first which application (poweradder) you want to use, then design your motor (compression ratio, cam, etc..) around it. You can keep the stock crank, and just replace the rods and pistons and you should be good to go. You would use a 3.898 size piston if your block only needs a deglaze, and a 3.905 size piston for a .005 overbore. Good Luck.

jdmille5

what turbo size turbo are you using? what compression were you running? so you were completely stock other than the 6.0 heads? thats pretty awesome. what did you normally run psi wise on the street at approx. what rwhp?

rod442

Turbo Size are the stage 1 Incon turbo's hybrid 3-4's gtb 35's?

Stock compression before heads, after probably 9.7:1. Whatever those heads with stock gaskets ='s.

Stock motor with pushrods, springs, and retainers; and 42# injectors. before the heads I was at 8 psi and 503/518 on a mustang dyno. Ater, now at 10 psi who knows? calculators show as much as 630 I think.

I have been on 10 psi on the street for a month since the head swap. With the cold air here, I have been able to run 93 octane, but I bet in hotter summer months, I would have to drop the boost a pound or 2.

JasonZ28

Hey man, kinda o/t. I'm assuming your car is a 6 speed? If not...I'm trying to find how hard 600rwhp is going to be to hook-up on the streets..in a 6-speed car that's set up for the twisties...I'll be running stock suspension at first, but plan to do a full BMR set-up shortly.

jdmille5

i have a guy that says ill have 500-550rwhp and close to 600rwtq on my stock motor at 7 psi, on 93 octane. he custom builds everything. he said he's done several stock ls1 and he has the syno sheets to prove it. my question is do you thing my engine can take it bone stock?

rod442

Yes, the car is a 6 speed.

I dont know if you'll have quite that much hp at 7 psi. dynojet probably close though. I dynoed a year ago on a dynojet at 7 psi and made 477/500 tq, with a FAT a/f. 11.0:1, but stock timing.

Maybe an 02 with the better intake than I had at the time, and a slightly better cam would have made over 500 hp. BUT probably not 600 tq, at least on a Incon car. Some of the single kits (which is probably what you'd have); have dynoed in that range. BUT I haven't seen any track numbers to support some of the huge TQ numbers some have posted.

As far as Road racing, I would say definately not. At least not for long. Big difference between it living for <12 seconds at a time, and what? 20-30 mins?

It was always said when people were discussing these kits that for roadracing, you would definately want a forged crank, better pistons and rods etc.

Anyone else want to chime in here?

And holding that much power on the street, with 17" nitto drags I can roast them through 2nd from a roll, and a bit into 3rd. On colder pavement lately, 3rd and 4th over 1/2 throttle have been risky . BUT the car tracks straight and keeps forward momentum, so its easily handled. I do however have a TQ arm (made the most difference I think), relocated rear LCA's, slp PHB, qa1's, STB, and subframes.