Well, has anyone broke down and tried the cogged setup from rpmoutlet.com? Or any cogged setup for that matter? I know a few people said they had ordered theirs, just waiting for some results. I really don't see any problems running the setup on a daily driven car. And I honestly think you'd be freeing up some extra hp from using it because you won't have to tighten it like you would a 6 or 8-rib setup, which woulod take some of the stress away from the sc bearings as well as the main bearings, it turn freeing up some extra hp due to less drag. Reguardless, U'd really like to see some results before taking the plunge.

 

Just waiting on mine 2 weeks to go
I see your point on the hp/wear issues, I agree that there will be gains on hp and on bearing life. I will probably only run the cog set up at the track and the dyno so I can get all the power I need with no slip. On the street I will run the regular MMS pulley and 3.2 s/c pulley so I can wear out a 16 dollar belt instead of a 50-75 dollar cog belt. The swap is easy enough to do, I have it down to 30min start to finish. Driving around town with a lil slack on the 6 rib isn't that bad. Its the track and dyno that I am concerned about.
J

 

FRCE, That cam you talked to me about how hi are you spinning it to?? I just saw that u said you would run a 3.2 pulley on the street w/ the MMS crank pulley. The MMS crank pulley is 7.850 inches correct??? with my calculations on how ATI said to figure out your propeller speed is take your crank pulley size and devide your blower pulley into it and then mulitply that by the internal gear ratio of the D1-SC (4.1) and multiply that by your peak rpm you shift at and that would give you your max impeller speed. If i remember right you said you spun that cam to 6800 well that would put you over your max impeller speed.......It would put you a few hundred over 68000 rpm's and the max on the head unit is 62000rpm. just wondering. It looks like now is the time for a rebuild for me so ill be going wit that new Eagle 4" crank for a 382 and ill use the Cog you are going to use so keep us posted. Do you know the diameter of the pulleys ASP is making for your cog.... we can find out your impeller speed at least.
later
Kyle

 

Yep I know it is being overspun, us high altitude guys have to work hard for some decent boost. Its not really that bad, my car doesn't spin the s/c at max rpm all the time, maybe 5-7 seconds out of every run at the strip, and I usually get one pass because I don't have a cage in my STREET CAR, so I am not worried, now if I was a road racer, and kept the engine spinning 5800+ I would worry. Other than that I putt around town like an old man. I think that the cog is 7.3ish but that is a guess, I will find out when I get it. Oh yeah with all the slip this thing has I doubt if it has a chance to get over spun lol. For now the car sits in the driveway all lonely and sad because I have to send the computer out to have it retuned, it's way fat on the bottom end.
*EDIT*
Here is the info on the cogs that ASP emailed me. This was taking in my 7100rpm rev limit into part of the equation for these cogs,
76 t crank
33 t blower
10408m30 belt
blower speed 64208 at 7100rpm, shift points are 6800
So 2000rpm over isn't bad at all especially at all, doubt I will be going thru the traps at 7100rpm. The head unit is just a "little" out of efficienty range.
J

 

Yeah, I'm really curious to hear reports on how well this setup works. Hopefully someone will post up their impression soon.

Mike

 

I told ASP I wanted 16psi, they gave me 78t for the crank and 32t for the blower pulley, but the same belt #

 

I was curious how wide the ASP belt was? My 6rib setup seems awfully tight in there. How do they squeeze 8 rib or wide COG belts in there? Is any rerouting done? Or is it just a REAL tight fit?

Mike

 

You have to use spacers to move the blower out...

 

Bos,
Do you know if ASP supplys the spacers to do the job right?? If not do they tell were you can at least buy them?? Bos how high are you shifting at??

FRCFED,
How much Boost did you tell ASP you are wanting to run?? I want to see 16 psi also. Thanks
Oh and what valves did you get with your PP 6.0L heads and what size valves??
Kyle

 

FRCE, i did the calculations by what the Blower headunit was spinning at your 7100 rpm limiter and divided that back into the 64,208 you said it would be spinning at to ge your other multiple and cam up with 61,494.9859 rpm's at 6800. So you should be fine and that looks like exactly what sizes i want also.
Kyle

 

I have been running cog belts for nearly two years now.

No complaints at all. I'm currently using the Gates PolyGrip belt, and do not seem to have any wear problems with it at all. I did have wear problems with the Goodyear products. The PolyGrip belt I am using (1040-8MGT-30) is rated at 68hp @3450 rpm. Plenty for my Procharger.

If I need to, I can change over to the PolyChain belt (8MGT-1120-36) and that is then good for 85hp @3450 rpm. But, since I am paying only $32 per belt for the PolyGrip, and and have no troubles, I'll stick with it.

And since my setup uses a dedicated belt to spin the blower, it is really cool for me. Even when I have stripped the teeth off of the belt, I can still drive home, albeit with a tad less power :-)

Clay.

 

Nasty thanks for working out the math for me Thats a load off my mind. I told ASP I wanted 15psi, but due to my altitude he didn't know what I was going to hit, he was pretty sure it would be 15psi but wasn't going to guarantee anything, I told him thats o.k. thats what the N2O is for

Clay from CO, I saw your post on the other board. I am glad you gave us some insight on this kit. No complaints at all is a good thing in my book, if you don't mind what is your tooth count and what boost your cogs were rated for,what boost do you see in CO, this would be excellent because we are at about the same altitude This will give me a good place to go off of on what boost I can expect.
I saw that you get about 1500mi out of a cog belt, this is the reason I will keep my 6 rib on for daily driving, cog for track/dyno duty. Where do you pick your belts up? Nice to have you here on LS1tech FI

Bos, I am glad you went with a cog, and stuck to the FI thing. 16psi tho, are you trying to out do me We'll run em
J

 

Hold up!?!?! You only get 1500 miles out of a cogs belt? What's the deal with that? Don't 03 Cobra's use cogged belts? I know theirs lasts longer than 1500 miles. Can someone go into further detail as the price of belts can be a real consideration.

You guys mentioned the PolyChain belt (8MGT-1120-36). What's the cost longevity difference with this belt?

So basically with a cogs I can only expect no slip for 1500 miles and then I have to pull the blower and switch belts?

Thanks for the info guys,
Mike

 

03 Cobra's run an 8 rib setup. a buddy of mine has one.
Ill run it but its going to **** me off with buying so many damn crank belts..... nah screw it ill just keep replacing cog belts cause 1500 miles is longer then i get now at $22 bucks a belt for the best one so far...(Gatorback) so $12 bucks more is no biggy for no slip at all.
Kyle

 

I have no idea what you are referring to regarding the '1500 miles'. That might be someone else. As for "this kit", again I think you are referring to someone else. GWP put mine together with an ATI pulley and sprocket.

I have gotten anywhere from 10 minutes to 9 months out of a belt. The worst was the Goodyear HiPerformance belt. And since mine is a daily driver, the milage has been significant.

As for the tooth count, the 1040-8MGT-30 has 130 teeth (approx 41").

As for "...what boost your cogs were rated for...", etc., there is no answer. A sychronis belt, a.k.a. cog belt, does not have a specific load rating. The load 'curve' depends on many variables. Not the least of which is rim/belt speed. I got a copy of the Gates Design Flex II software that once I enter the data for my set up (pulley size, sprocket size, step up ratio, and service factor, etc.), calculates what the belt load is, and what the tensioning needs to be. As for what load you intend to put on the belt (design load), that depends on the given blower. Mine requires approx 55hp to generate 14# boost. Therefore the PolyGrip's capacity at 3450 rpm of 68hp is adequate.

As for where I get my belts from, the last place I bought belts was from Motion Industries. But any industrial power transmission supplier has access to Gates products. I picked up a Gates catalog when I was there last, and it has proved very helpful.

And again, regarding '1500 miles', that is not me. I have learned to follow the tensioning guidelines provided by Gates for their belts. Therein, I found it very interesting to learn that the new belt tension is substancially higher than after the belt has been broken in. Then, the belt tension is less. Not to mention, the belt tension is itself a function of the pulley/sprocket center distance.

Clay.

 

36 or 50 mm wide setup Clay?

 

I'm going to spin my motor to 6500, with a cam change in the future probably 6800, but won't effect the pulleys really, the F-1 upgrade might result in me swapping to a different blower pulley....

ASP told me that they would supply the correct spacers if I wanted...

 

I dont think you'll need the F1 if you go cog on the D1SC

 

The PolyGrip is what I am using and therein I am using a 30 mm belt. If I change to the PolyChain, there is not a 30 mm selection. Thus, I would go to the 36 mm (my pulley and sprocket have adequate width for this wider belt).

Interestingly, the 36 mm belt, for my application, is good for approx 82 hp. The 50 mm belt jumps that up to approx 141hp! And the belt price jumps proportionally.

 

2fast4u2, where are you getting the load carrying info for the belts? I have sheared the teeth off one belt at thunder with a f1 procharger. Would love to find this info in print. Thanks
Kurt