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Forged Iron 370 / AFR 225's / Truck Manifolds / PT88

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Old 12-17-2010, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mr_biscuitz
what gears do you run?
3.55:1
Old 12-17-2010, 09:34 PM
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Awesome thanks for the info on the questions. I am sure I will have more as my build starts and progresses. I can't wait for the holidays to be over so I can start.
Old 12-18-2010, 10:23 AM
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Thats the same gear I have, what rpm are you turning?
Old 12-18-2010, 11:33 AM
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Does your driver side tire hit your fender when you leave? Kinda looks like it in your pictures?
Old 12-18-2010, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mr_biscuitz
Thats the same gear I have, what rpm are you turning?
I try to shift at 7K RPM and go thru the traps at 7200-7300 RPM.

Originally Posted by raymond mckinney
Does your driver side tire hit your fender when you leave? Kinda looks like it in your pictures?
No but it would rub on the inner fender well cover when I turn the wheel to the inside. I took it out.
Old 12-18-2010, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
No but it would rub on the inner fender well cover when I turn the wheel to the inside. I took it out.
i think hes talking about the rear wheel, i noticed the same thing. it looks like its definitely touching.. ( last pic)
Old 12-18-2010, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryans99ls1
i think hes talking about the rear wheel, i noticed the same thing. it looks like its definitely touching.. ( last pic)
For sure there is no contact but the reason that it is so close is that I twisted up the splines in the slip yoke that (is supposed to) slide into the transmission. Right now (and in those pictures) in has my entire rear suspension in a bind and is causing the back of the car to lift up like that.

I have since discovered that it caused some other problems as it is pushing forward on everything including my crank. I'm pretty sure that I have to pull the motor and change some bearings as a result. I have a forged slip yoke on order that should be here in the next few days. I have replaced 3 standard slip yokes in the last year because I keep twisting up the splines in them but figured better the splines than the output shaft. Not anymore as I'm ready to replace this transmission. It has gone far and above the call of duty already and owes me nothing.
Old 12-18-2010, 02:44 PM
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I have been reading all of this tread and your other one and im pulling as much info as I can for putting my setup together it will close to yours just with a M9 rear a 4l80 and in a thirdgen on a diet

maybe ill do a build thread but im like you get the car on the road and the computer is the last place ill be when there are parts to get changed
Old 01-10-2011, 12:09 AM
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Anyone who was at our track rental saw that I was having major struggles with traction. Usually my car hooks on low power and if I turn it up too much on the launch it hooks too much and goes up in the air. Also if you saw the video, my rear end was lifting alot on the launch. Right before I went to make my last pass I noticed that my oil pressure was down to around 30-31 psi at idle when it's usually closer to 36-37 psi hot. I decided not to make that last pass and live to fight another day. Got home without issue and with plenty of pressure while cruising and no odd sounds coming from the motor. I pulled the filter, brought it to Mike @ TEC and he told me there was definetly bearing wear happening due to the gold sheen in the oil.

My driveshaft slip yoke that slides into the transmission twisted the splines and and had my entire suspension in a bind. This is why my rear was lifting on the launch and it was jamming the entire driveline into the crank shaft. I got the main caps off tonite and here they are starting from front to back. You can see that the 3rd one is completely hosed. Thats the thrust bearing and you can see the extreme wear on the side from the crankshaft getting jammed forward. The 4th one was about to spin and is also in bad shape. The back one didn't look all that bad.

I'm going to pull the rod caps tomorrow but I doubt I'll find anything wrong with them.

Heads, pistons, and bores all looked great.





Old 01-10-2011, 05:39 AM
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Damn los, lucky and shitty at the same time.
Old 01-10-2011, 08:29 PM
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My slip yoke theory is getting shot full of holes. It's starting to look more like a converter ballooning issue or a cap walk issue.
Old 01-10-2011, 09:06 PM
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Good eye on that oil pressure. Things could have been worse obviously.
Old 01-10-2011, 09:22 PM
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Another thing i was thinking after re-reading your post was if the splines are twisted then there is alot of force at least in the trans. I may be wrong but i wonder if the trans has any damage internally. not sure what trans you are running but there are probably thrust washers in there too no? I would think that whatever that output shaft is splined to would take an abnormal pounding too. I could be wrong but the twisted splines arent good.
Old 01-11-2011, 08:11 AM
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please dont say its the conv. or the caps walking
Old 01-11-2011, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SSZ
Another thing i was thinking after re-reading your post was if the splines are twisted then there is alot of force at least in the trans. I may be wrong but i wonder if the trans has any damage internally. not sure what trans you are running but there are probably thrust washers in there too no? I would think that whatever that output shaft is splined to would take an abnormal pounding too. I could be wrong but the twisted splines arent good.
The twisted spline problem will not happen again as this time I bought the bad boy yoke. This yoke will rip the output shaft out of the trans before twisting the splines. The transmission is a TH350 with RMVB and a HD JW 36 element sprag/drum assembly and red clutches. Everything else in it is bone stock. I couldn't tell you about how it's put together though as that's way outside of my realm of expertise (just like shortblock assembly LOL). I have replaced the input shaft and main drum assembly one time myself but I just took it apart making sure to keep everything in the same order as it came out, replaced the piece and put it back together. Parts changer style.

What I am being told and it makes sense from having been inside the trans is that the input shaft and the output shaft dont touch. Meaning that pushing on one shouldn't effect the other. I've now also been told that if the converter was ballooning, it would take out the transmission pump way before hurting the crank. So that just leaves the mains walking I guess. I'm going to see my engine builder this morning so that he can check out the stuff and see what he says. Hope to have an update tonight.

One thing to keep in mind is that this is not a race car that was loaded on a trailer to go to the track, made 3-5 passes and back on the trailer. This thing is driven alot and have been together for a year and half with atleast 8 8sec passes and she's heavy. I'm kind of bad about changing the oil also which I plan to get better at doing.

In short, no other motor that I have had has gone this fast or lasted this long. They also all came apart in an ugly way where as this is just a freshning up so to speak as no machine work will be required. As I said in another thread, the top fuel guys do this work between every round. We're talking about a $500 fix here.

Mystery solved. None of the above. Crank is bent .006.
Old 01-11-2011, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
Mystery solved. None of the above. Crank is bent .006.
You planning to stick with a stock unit, or go to a forged piece?
Old 01-11-2011, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
Mystery solved. None of the above. Crank is bent .006.
A+ for catching it in time!! Are you going to keep the same cubes if you go aftermarket crank?
Old 01-11-2011, 12:42 PM
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No aftermarket for me. Going to shove another stock one in there and call it a day. If I can get 18 months out of a stocker and have an excuse to freshen the motor once a year, I'm VERY OK with that. As a result of tearing this down I found a pretty good exhaust manifold leak that I was not aware off. MO BOOST

Score! MIke @ TEC hooked it up. He found one for me and it's balanced and ready to go. I picked up the rod bearings today and the mains will be in tomorrow. Mike also hooked me up with the part #'s for what I needed, Torque specs, and specialty tools. Short block will be assembled by midnight Friday. I should have the exhaust manifolds back from Fuzion Coatings on friday afternoon. I ordered a set of ARP studs for the exhaust manifolds but they wont be here till Monday or Tuesday. Hope to get the wiring done over the weekend and start tuning by middle of next week with the Holley HP computer that we have laying around for a buddy's build in progress. I should have my Dominator in by the end of the following week and be able to do some WOT tuning and maybe get on the track. I'm stocked to be back on schedule.
Old 01-12-2011, 07:20 PM
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How do you like the holley dominator EFI?
I am thinking of ordering one for my build...
Old 01-12-2011, 07:29 PM
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I noticed you have a t4 exhaust with a .96....what size downpipe is coming off of that turbo, 3.5"? I have a 383 with a precision 78mm t4 .96ar, 3" exhaust, and everyone (well a lot of people) say the turbo will start to back up around 15 psi (want to run around 20 on race gas). Does that turbo fall off at all up top? I know you have a few less cubes, but not much....should be about the same....any advice would be helpful. Thanks,

Dennis


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