Finally dyno'd my 370/F1 setup
#1
Finally dyno'd my 370/F1 setup
Got about what I expected it would with low boost using a 7.65/ 4.25 combo with my F1. This is spinning it to 83% at 6500RPM, but I was not able to make it to 6500 RPM on any of the pulls except one. It kept spinning the tires, and while putting an extra 400 or so pounds of people in the hatch to assist with traction, it just didnt want to hook after 5500ish RPM. It also jacked with the air/fuel when it would start to spin the tires, so thats why it looks to be going lean towards the end of the run on the chart. My tuner was having a hell of a time with those high impedance 79# injectors. Seemed like no matter what he tried, they kept giving him problems. Under partial throttle, the STFTs shoot up to as much as 30% at sometimes, yet under WOT, it wants to run just pig rich! At first we thought it may be a vacuum leak, but we took the manifold off, and found that one of the valley cover bolts was rubbing one of the bolts that holds the bottom plate on the BBK manifold, so we went ahead and used some sealant on the bottom plate of the manifold to prevent any possible leaks with the paper gasket that separates the plate from the manifold, and then ground down the valley cover bolts significantly. But even after we got all that done and it buttoned back up, it didnt seem to fix the issue. We are leaning towards the injectors being too much for my current setup.
I didnt even use the meth at all in any of these runs, and it was still off the charts rich for the most part of the runs. 20deg of timing, and zero KR. Max boost was in the 12-12.5 range (only hit 12.5 once, and that was on the one pull that went to 6500), but had no belt slip issues at all running my extra idler setup. Heres a short rundown of the setup:
6.0L iron block bored to 4.030 (370cid)
callies compstar connecting rods
wiseco -11cc pistons (SCR of 9.2:1)
AFR 225 heads
BBK aluminum intake manifold with 85mm TB
Siemens-Deka 79#injectors
Procharger F1 blower (older 5.0 stepup ratio)
12x24x4 core horizontal FMIC
Truck hat with spectre filter
Here is the build thread for those who want more details: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lots-pics.html
Graph:
Nothing was changed in the tune between all these runs. The only difference was traction. You can see how much better run 26 was than all the others. It most likely would have been 700 had traction been available. Even run 30 was doing better than run 28, but it lost traction on that one as well So the only run that we were able to pull all the way to redline was the one that was making the least power. I guess thats why it held. The straps were VERY tight, we even took air out of the tires to about 20psi, and slightly rolled the car back a smidge so it was barely behind the crest of the roller and not directly on top of it. Only thing that helped was 2 big guys in the hatch, and that really only worked completely one time out of the 4 times we tried that.
Anyway, I know there is a lot of power left on the table. I need to figure something out with these injectors, and then we can lean it out a little bit, and I'm sure that it would be well into the 700's. I may even go back to 60#ers and see how far they will get me. As I said, I still havent turned the meth on in any of the dyno runs made today. Once that is all ironed out and drivability is nicer, I still have a 3.7" head unit pulley sitting in the garage waiting to go on. I probably won't put that on until I go with a SD tune though. Right now, my MAF is maxing out at about 4100RPM, so needless to say, my OS needs to be upgraded to a 2 if not 3 bar MAP tune. I have no doubt the setup is good for 800rwhp once I get it all lined out.
Big thanks to Glen Lipinski and the guys at B&R in OKC for helpin me out on the dyno and tune today.
I didnt even use the meth at all in any of these runs, and it was still off the charts rich for the most part of the runs. 20deg of timing, and zero KR. Max boost was in the 12-12.5 range (only hit 12.5 once, and that was on the one pull that went to 6500), but had no belt slip issues at all running my extra idler setup. Heres a short rundown of the setup:
6.0L iron block bored to 4.030 (370cid)
callies compstar connecting rods
wiseco -11cc pistons (SCR of 9.2:1)
AFR 225 heads
BBK aluminum intake manifold with 85mm TB
Siemens-Deka 79#injectors
Procharger F1 blower (older 5.0 stepup ratio)
12x24x4 core horizontal FMIC
Truck hat with spectre filter
Here is the build thread for those who want more details: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lots-pics.html
Graph:
Nothing was changed in the tune between all these runs. The only difference was traction. You can see how much better run 26 was than all the others. It most likely would have been 700 had traction been available. Even run 30 was doing better than run 28, but it lost traction on that one as well So the only run that we were able to pull all the way to redline was the one that was making the least power. I guess thats why it held. The straps were VERY tight, we even took air out of the tires to about 20psi, and slightly rolled the car back a smidge so it was barely behind the crest of the roller and not directly on top of it. Only thing that helped was 2 big guys in the hatch, and that really only worked completely one time out of the 4 times we tried that.
Anyway, I know there is a lot of power left on the table. I need to figure something out with these injectors, and then we can lean it out a little bit, and I'm sure that it would be well into the 700's. I may even go back to 60#ers and see how far they will get me. As I said, I still havent turned the meth on in any of the dyno runs made today. Once that is all ironed out and drivability is nicer, I still have a 3.7" head unit pulley sitting in the garage waiting to go on. I probably won't put that on until I go with a SD tune though. Right now, my MAF is maxing out at about 4100RPM, so needless to say, my OS needs to be upgraded to a 2 if not 3 bar MAP tune. I have no doubt the setup is good for 800rwhp once I get it all lined out.
Big thanks to Glen Lipinski and the guys at B&R in OKC for helpin me out on the dyno and tune today.
Last edited by ChevyChad; 11-18-2009 at 12:48 AM.
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Been following this build since it started. Ill continue to watch and hope you get everything straightened out. I really want to see all the bugs worked out and what this combo will produce, seems 800 would be easily attainable. When will you be making the changes? Soon I hope!
#3
Yea, I had to work out a LOT of bugs to just get this far! From a massive oil leak, hot ECT issues, bypass valve stuck open, clutch not disengauging, etc. etc. I thought I had it all ready to go, but I had no clue the injectors were gonna be such a bitch! At least thats an easy change.
I don't know if I want to get some 60's and try to get the MAF tune better, or if I want to go ahead and get the SD tune done. I'll have to save up a bit either way. Probably will be early 2010 unless I come across some unexpected money somewhere.
I don't know if I want to get some 60's and try to get the MAF tune better, or if I want to go ahead and get the SD tune done. I'll have to save up a bit either way. Probably will be early 2010 unless I come across some unexpected money somewhere.
#4
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Yea, I had to work out a LOT of bugs to just get this far! From a massive oil leak, hot ECT issues, bypass valve stuck open, clutch not disengauging, etc. etc. I thought I had it all ready to go, but I had no clue the injectors were gonna be such a bitch! At least thats an easy change.
I don't know if I want to get some 60's and try to get the MAF tune better, or if I want to go ahead and get the SD tune done. I'll have to save up a bit either way. Probably will be early 2010 unless I come across some unexpected money somewhere.
I don't know if I want to get some 60's and try to get the MAF tune better, or if I want to go ahead and get the SD tune done. I'll have to save up a bit either way. Probably will be early 2010 unless I come across some unexpected money somewhere.
I would do SD right now. Adding the MAF tune later would be a minimal amount of work if you chose to do so. If the injectors are giving you that much of a hassle, try trading them with someone on the forums. Your might be pushing the 60's to their limits though.
#5
Yea, I had to work out a LOT of bugs to just get this far! From a massive oil leak, hot ECT issues, bypass valve stuck open, clutch not disengauging, etc. etc. I thought I had it all ready to go, but I had no clue the injectors were gonna be such a bitch! At least thats an easy change.
I don't know if I want to get some 60's and try to get the MAF tune better, or if I want to go ahead and get the SD tune done. I'll have to save up a bit either way. Probably will be early 2010 unless I come across some unexpected money somewhere.
I don't know if I want to get some 60's and try to get the MAF tune better, or if I want to go ahead and get the SD tune done. I'll have to save up a bit either way. Probably will be early 2010 unless I come across some unexpected money somewhere.
We added an extra tie down to our dyno. This extra tie down enables us to draw straight down from the rear end to the dyno. Sometimes we even air down the rear tires to 15 psi, tie the car down then air the tires back up. Bob
#6
12 Second Club
iTrader: (116)
^^Thats a good idea Bob.
Yea, she is hiding a decent amount of power from you brotha. I say keep the bigger injectors & get that bitch SD tuned. I think you'd be stretching a set of 60# injectors a little too far, but it could possibly work. What kinda duty cycle were you seeing with those 60's previously?
Yea, she is hiding a decent amount of power from you brotha. I say keep the bigger injectors & get that bitch SD tuned. I think you'd be stretching a set of 60# injectors a little too far, but it could possibly work. What kinda duty cycle were you seeing with those 60's previously?
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Minnesota Corn Fields
Posts: 2,452
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Just use some belt dressing on the tires. Get the tires rolling, spray some on there and you can hear the tires start to stick. It works for us on 1000rwhp cars, sticks every time.
Trending Topics
#12
Thanks guys. Those are some great suggestions for getting the wheels to hook also. As far as the injectors being tunable- that’s what so many people told me, and the reason for me purchasing them, but I sat there and watched Glen try everything under the sun to try and get them ironed out to no avail. I am no tuner, but I don’t see how these things are able to work with the stock OS. Unless I can get a copy of someones tune with these injectors to maybe forward to my tuner to compare, I may have to figure something else out. Perhaps a set of low impedance injectors with a driver box would be easier if 60’s won’t be enough for my ultimate goal of 800rwhp? Brett also seemed hesitant about these big high impedance injectors when I was asking him about them too. I'd hate to take my car to him when I go SD and him have the same problems trying to get it ironed out.
The fuel system consists of twin walbro 255 in-tank pumps, -8 feed line from the tank to the p/s rail, -8 crossover, -6 line out of the d/s rail into a boost referenced FPR, and the factory 3/8 feed (-6 equivalent) is used as a return.
The fuel system consists of twin walbro 255 in-tank pumps, -8 feed line from the tank to the p/s rail, -8 crossover, -6 line out of the d/s rail into a boost referenced FPR, and the factory 3/8 feed (-6 equivalent) is used as a return.
#15
10 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MOREHEAD KY
Posts: 3,297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
good numbers man, i know how it feels to go to the dyno hoping for a number and coming up with less then you wanted, hell iv been trying to see 700 to the tire from the beginning on my ol turd, best iv seen is 550......but it will run 10.50s now so that make me a little bit happier LOL Dont get to caught up in the numbers use the dyno as a tool so you can have a great time with your car, also i will talk with my tuner and see id he has a tune that might help you with the injectors............GO SD!!!!! that was the single best thing i did to my car
#16
Thanks guys. Are you running the 79# injectors Ricky? If so, that would be cool to see how other tuners are implementing these suckers. I'd like to not have to change injectors if I don't have to, but if I can't get these tuned, they are worthless to me.
#17
Launching!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: cookeville, tn
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^^Thats a good idea Bob.
Yea, she is hiding a decent amount of power from you brotha. I say keep the bigger injectors & get that bitch SD tuned. I think you'd be stretching a set of 60# injectors a little too far, but it could possibly work. What kinda duty cycle were you seeing with those 60's previously?
Yea, she is hiding a decent amount of power from you brotha. I say keep the bigger injectors & get that bitch SD tuned. I think you'd be stretching a set of 60# injectors a little too far, but it could possibly work. What kinda duty cycle were you seeing with those 60's previously?
#20
TECH Resident
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i don't see 800's out of ?. i was wondering why you went with a 370? it seems like people are liking the extra revs fromt the 370's. were you looking for 7krpm?
im going to go and start from the begining on your threads ive been through them several times in the past and you've helped me with some questions through some pm's and i thank you for that. good luck buddy and expect some pm's in the future i should have have my d1sc similar to ricky's in march
im going to go and start from the begining on your threads ive been through them several times in the past and you've helped me with some questions through some pm's and i thank you for that. good luck buddy and expect some pm's in the future i should have have my d1sc similar to ricky's in march