422 LSX Solid Roller, TFS 245's, Billet Wilson & Twin TC78's from KYTP
#441
8 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
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I have the same transmission as you I didnt get the tilton pump though, I heard they dont hold up that great.
THis is the pump I use http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
I got an adjustable hayden thermostat
and put the sensor in the pan. Then I hooked the pump and the fan on the cooler up to a constant hot source. That way it cools while I have the car off in between runs
#443
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It's a stock suspension car. Has a stock width rear and no tub work. Just the standard bfh/grinder massage work to the inner fender wells in order to fit the 325/50/15 MT DR's. It has all the BMR stuff IIRC. The rear shocks are AFCO and the fronts are QA1R's.
#444
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We finally made it back to the track last night. Seems like trans temps are back under control with the addition of the pump to circulate the trans fluid. I've been wanting him to try a 275/60/15 tire as most DR classes are limited to that size. He bought a set of Hoosiers and tried them out. Track prep was so so but the tires seemed to work fine.
The problem with the boost bleeding off over 22 psi presented itself last night again. Not sure what's up with the BOV but it is cracking open again on him going down track. Turn the boost down to 19-20 psi and the problem goes away. I thought that perhaps the manifold signal line was leaking but it seems to be fine. We'll get it figured out.
The problem with the boost bleeding off over 22 psi presented itself last night again. Not sure what's up with the BOV but it is cracking open again on him going down track. Turn the boost down to 19-20 psi and the problem goes away. I thought that perhaps the manifold signal line was leaking but it seems to be fine. We'll get it figured out.
#446
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BOV is cracking open during the pass at around 7K RPM which seems to be right when he kisses 22 psi of boost. The boost literally just falls off a cliff. Drops to like 3 psi within a second or so. We were having this problem before and added a spring to the BOV. We were able to see almost 30 psi last time out after adding the spring. Now all the sudden the problem is back. When he turns the boost down to about 20 psi, it's solid all the way down the track.
#447
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Also, the BS3 WBO2 is flaking out still. He replaced the sensor but it is pegging out at 14.5:1 again. He may have a bad plug or wire that is causing it to freak out. It sucks because the BS3 wants to go full correction but because it's a false reading, it dumps fuel and fattens up the car which then makes it surge. So I had to shut off the positive correction last night again.
#452
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Thanks for the kind words.
I dont think so. Steve replaced the sensor with the same bosh style sensor that we us on the LM1 controllers. He told me last night that the connector was a different shape so it wouldn't lock together. He is going to order one from BS3 just to make sure it's not a compatibility thing. It does work most of the time though but just want to rule everything out before blaming it on the BS3 computer.
#453
7 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
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BOV is cracking open during the pass at around 7K RPM which seems to be right when he kisses 22 psi of boost. The boost literally just falls off a cliff. Drops to like 3 psi within a second or so. We were having this problem before and added a spring to the BOV. We were able to see almost 30 psi last time out after adding the spring. Now all the sudden the problem is back. When he turns the boost down to about 20 psi, it's solid all the way down the track.
#454
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Steve is doubting the BOV as well but, I dont think that plugs and/or wires will fix the boost issue.
#456
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This mite be a pane to do but BOV will tell on it’s self
buy doing this.
Back when Formula 1 was allowed to run turbos
at the end of that era F1 was making the teams install
a pre calibrated poppet/BOV to control the max boost.
If the poppet valve opened the driver would have to lift
to get it to close and the other cars would blow by him like he was tied.
So the teams run a peace of tubing from the valve into the drivers helmet.
The driver could here it hissing and ride the ragged edge of the valve just before it let go.
buy doing this.
Back when Formula 1 was allowed to run turbos
at the end of that era F1 was making the teams install
a pre calibrated poppet/BOV to control the max boost.
If the poppet valve opened the driver would have to lift
to get it to close and the other cars would blow by him like he was tied.
So the teams run a peace of tubing from the valve into the drivers helmet.
The driver could here it hissing and ride the ragged edge of the valve just before it let go.
#457
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
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This mite be a pane to do but BOV will tell on it’s self
buy doing this.
Back when Formula 1 was allowed to run turbos
at the end of that era F1 was making the teams install
a pre calibrated poppet/BOV to control the max boost.
If the poppet valve opened the driver would have to lift
to get it to close and the other cars would blow by him like he was tied.
So the teams run a peace of tubing from the valve into the drivers helmet.
The driver could here it hissing and ride the ragged edge of the valve just before it let go.
buy doing this.
Back when Formula 1 was allowed to run turbos
at the end of that era F1 was making the teams install
a pre calibrated poppet/BOV to control the max boost.
If the poppet valve opened the driver would have to lift
to get it to close and the other cars would blow by him like he was tied.
So the teams run a peace of tubing from the valve into the drivers helmet.
The driver could here it hissing and ride the ragged edge of the valve just before it let go.
20 messages coming at me from the steering wheel, check.
Radio from the pits buzzing in my head, check.
Someone coming up in my mirror at 200 MPH, check.
Listen for the BOV hissing in my helmet...no wonder F1 guys get the big bucks and the hot girls....
#458
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It got a little yellowish hue to it after the first couple heat cycles but that's it. Works like a champ. Really helped with under hood temps. You can touch the hot pipe by the time he gets back to the pits. I said touch, not grab. It's hot but not enough to blister you from incidental contact.
Come on man, this is a street car.
This mite be a pane to do but BOV will tell on it’s self
buy doing this.
Back when Formula 1 was allowed to run turbos
at the end of that era F1 was making the teams install
a pre calibrated poppet/BOV to control the max boost.
If the poppet valve opened the driver would have to lift
to get it to close and the other cars would blow by him like he was tied.
So the teams run a peace of tubing from the valve into the drivers helmet.
The driver could here it hissing and ride the ragged edge of the valve just before it let go.
buy doing this.
Back when Formula 1 was allowed to run turbos
at the end of that era F1 was making the teams install
a pre calibrated poppet/BOV to control the max boost.
If the poppet valve opened the driver would have to lift
to get it to close and the other cars would blow by him like he was tied.
So the teams run a peace of tubing from the valve into the drivers helmet.
The driver could here it hissing and ride the ragged edge of the valve just before it let go.
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#459
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Steve called me last night. He did get a chance to check the plugs. Turns out that the tip that unscrews on the end of the plug had backed itself out. When he pulled the wire off, the tip came out with it. All the plugs look good except that one. It also happened to be in the same bank that the BS3 is reading. Probably why the O2 correction was flaking out.
He's going to drill and tap another vacuum/boost port into the intake so that the BOV and the FPR get a good strong signal. Right now there is only one 1/8 port on the intake that feeds a vacuum manifold. That block has about 2 ft of line feeding it. There are 2 MAP sensors in it and then the line that feeds the BOV and FPR is another 4ft run. BOV is last in line. I think it may be a weak signal not providing the neccesary assist. When the boost comes in fast, the signal isn't making it in time and cracking the BOV open which looses boost which weakens the signal more and so goes the downward spiral.
We'll be back out there Wednesday night, weather permitting.
He's going to drill and tap another vacuum/boost port into the intake so that the BOV and the FPR get a good strong signal. Right now there is only one 1/8 port on the intake that feeds a vacuum manifold. That block has about 2 ft of line feeding it. There are 2 MAP sensors in it and then the line that feeds the BOV and FPR is another 4ft run. BOV is last in line. I think it may be a weak signal not providing the neccesary assist. When the boost comes in fast, the signal isn't making it in time and cracking the BOV open which looses boost which weakens the signal more and so goes the downward spiral.
We'll be back out there Wednesday night, weather permitting.
#460
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If you have your doubts about the BOV you can run a tube and listen or ride under the hood, it’s your call!
It’s not like you have to stick this tube in your ear every time you get in the car, a quick test will confirm or deny a leak.
Street car or not a leak is a leak.
It’s not like you have to stick this tube in your ear every time you get in the car, a quick test will confirm or deny a leak.
Street car or not a leak is a leak.