I'm getting antsy.......

 

Me too And I dont even have a blower.
:happy:

 

Updates?

 

Crap mode on:
Here is an update for all those who have been waiting..................................

15psi with a 6rib I think not and that belt was TIGHT w/dressing

Well good to see the bracket wasn't flexing no scars under the idler pulley

same as above only clean

WTF wheres the clearance

CLOSE UP OF THE NO CLEARANCE ISSUE

Height diff between the s/c cog and idler, the cogs need to come up quite a bit

Bracket with spacers installed for clearance *mocking up off the car*

How much clearance the stock s/c pulley has between the case and the bottom of the s/c pulley.

Well from the pics you see above only lets you see a tiny amount of fun I have been having today. I spent the day driving around the local parts stores looking for the right cap screws. You will need
1) 3/8-16 X 1 1/2 long cap screw
4) 5/16-18 X 1 1/4 long cap screws, but I had to settle for 1 1/2 long cap screws and hack them down the rest of the way with the dremel. I couldn't find the 1 1/4 inch long cap screws anywhere in town You need to do this because of the spacers that are required with this kit.(see bracket/spacer pic)
Went to pick up the finished crank cog from the machine shop but they didn't touch it, so I emailed ASP for ideas and he told me to send it back to them and they will redrill the holes for a 5/16 dowel(for strength)
So I start to assemble what I can, hack the bolts down to the right length. Bolt the bracket up to the headunit to see what it will look like, and put the s/c cog on the headunit to find out the damn thing rests perfectly on the case of the s/c. So I fired off another email to ASP to ask them if a spacer was suppose to come with the kit to get the s/c cog off the case and lined up with the idler pulley. I will have to wait for monday to come around for a response so until then
Well sorry for the hold up guys but I am trail blazing so you don't have to,
Jeremy

 

Anyone with custom ASP pulleys (8 rib or cog) have any spacers included with their pulleys that raise the s/c pulley up?
Thanks,
J

 

Does the s/c cog pulley have different offsets or is it the same on both sides? It kinda looks like the pulley is on wrong in that one picture??

Bummer though man

 

Nope it fits the same, no matter which side its on believe me I tried to get it to work. I want it to work Dammit
J

 

Damn

Had to happen on a Friday too, now you have to wait ALL weekend.

 

Well I will spend the time hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and switching my 02's around and readjusting my BMR torque arm. I am hoping that the 02's are shot and are causing the hesistation my car has from 2800-3900rpm. If not I will have to send the PCM of to get reworked again.
It never ends
J

 

I didn't get spacers when I ordered my stuff, we later found out that they were needed, my setup if you remember was mis aligned by almost a 1/4"

Keep fighting to get it right.............

 

sorry to hear that.

would using the ring spacer around the shaft of the blower ( last pic. , the rusty one in the picture of the ribbed pulley installed) move the cog away from the blower?

can you post pics of the blower cog from both sides (prefrably from an angle - not from straight up).
i want to see if you can machine that cog down for more clearance.

looking at the pics, why did they design the setup so that it would need the spacers between the blower and the bracket? why not just machine the cog down to acceptable thickness? this way you don't push the blower into the radiator.

 

Dirty, me and my Dad were wondering the same thing. The cog doesn't need to be that wide at all. The cog belt doesn't even need that much surface area on the cog.
In the pic with the cog on the case the ring is still on the shaft I am going to the hardware store today to see if I can find a spacer or something close to it to bump the cog up to the required height.

Bos, Man you had to fight the same thing with your 8 rib set up too You are about right on how far its off, about a 1/4in. Time for another parts hunt today.
LS1 stuff never goes on without having to f@#k with it
J

 

i say call asp and cause a fuss about this issue. they have to get you a solution or refund you the cost of the stuff and your labor.
you didn't pay $500 to do their fitment testing for them.

just remeber, the squeeky wheel gets the grease.

 

oh , and any pics of the blower cog?
would machining the just a bit off the outer edge of the cog on the blower side help?

 

Yeah, I emailed em with the pics to let him see what I am talking about. I am not going to have some pieced together set up on the car. *edit* pics added



The neck or collar of the cog is 3/16 of an inch recessed. The face is also 3/16 of an inch recessed as well.
J

 

Damn Jeremy..... Looks like you have some work ahead of you. Remember to writr down all the parts needed so people doing this after you (ME) know what all to buy when they recieve there kit from ASP. That was a funny crack about bigger pic's just for me...... I feel special.....ha ha Keep up the good work and keep us posted.
Later
Kyle

 

thanks for posting the pics so fast!

from the looks of it , you can machine the cog from the blower side (middle pic) till the outside edge is either flush or slightly lower than the center section.
and while you're at it why not machine the other side flush with the center section so you son't have any blower cog / alternator pulley contact issues.
just remeber , don't machine the cog to have it match the exact width of the belt, you need some room for the belt to move around and center itself.

 

Sorry to see just another problem with your blower setup frcefed98. Between your problems and BIGBOS's I decided im not gonna even mess with a blower on my new setup. Just do 11.1 compression and spray the heck out of it.

 

I like my 8 rib and I dont think I will go cog since I am ok wit what I have right now.

 

I won't be machining anything. I paid too much money to start modifying ASP's mistakes. I will be waiting for Lee@ASP email on monday to see what he says about this. I sent him the pics to let him know where the cog sits on the case. I shouldn't have to do anything other than bolt this kit up and go. Thats the way I see it. I don't enjoy spending that any amount of cash, just to spend some more to get things to fit the way it should've fit from the parts manufacturer in the first place. The crank cog will be going back monday for sure though, so ASP can either redrill the dowel hole for a 5/16 dowel or to drill 1/4 dowel holes in another location. ASP said it was their mistake and they would fix it, and I am sure they will do the same for the s/c cog issue.

Kyle, no problem on the parts needed list, I posted up on the length of the new mounting cap screws so you guys know what to hunt down before hand. I am sure once everything is figured out by ASP that it will be a bolt on deal with the exception of the bolts. We will see though, I don't have a bad feeling about it...........yet.

Madboost where have you been, have you put together a new engine? Sometimes I wish that I would've gone another route, but this FI stuff is fun and addicting....I can't live without that nice whine from the D1 Everything has its hold ups so its no biggie really, I am sure if I went N2O I would be having issues of some sort, bottle pressure, bottle warmer on the fritz, N2O fuel noid not firing and smoking a motor Stuff like that. But I do have the best of both worlds, S/C and N2O.

Scott, once its up and running I am sure it will be putting down big consistent boost numbers. At least with the cog I won't get that sick feeling on the dyno or track when I see my boost gauge needle nosedive because of belt slip Just have to get past this speed bump first

J