lol jk 
Got The car running...have a few problems.
Got The car running...have a few problems. So I finally got my car up and running/driving. Everything seem to be working good except for my gauges and the car wont go over 3k rpms lol. I have a dynotune electric FP gauge, and autometer manual boost/vacum gauge.
The FP gauge worked for about a 10 minute drive, and lots of idle time. But now its only reading like anywhere from 23-27psi while cruising? Its set at 50psi btw. I really dont think it could be the pump that went bad, because it idles fine at that low of prussure. Is it possible for our cars to even run on 23psi of fuel pressure? And from day one the boost gauge hasnt read vacum what so ever. It will read boost when I blow into the line with a air compressor. But dont know if it is working from the source its hooked up to, becuase I havent gotten into boost yet. I have it refrencing from a vacum block that is connected to the EVAP port. I was under the impression this would work? Do I need to move it to the brake booster line like everyone else is doing?
I have installed a 3 bar map sensor, and converted it over using HP tuners. It idles fine and drives fine until you try and pass 3k RPMS. Its like its cutting all fuel and spark. I am by no means a tuning wizz. But I cant get a tune for another couple of weeks
. I'm pretty sure this will be solved by a good tune tho...
The FP gauge worked for about a 10 minute drive, and lots of idle time. But now its only reading like anywhere from 23-27psi while cruising? Its set at 50psi btw. I really dont think it could be the pump that went bad, because it idles fine at that low of prussure. Is it possible for our cars to even run on 23psi of fuel pressure? And from day one the boost gauge hasnt read vacum what so ever. It will read boost when I blow into the line with a air compressor. But dont know if it is working from the source its hooked up to, becuase I havent gotten into boost yet. I have it refrencing from a vacum block that is connected to the EVAP port. I was under the impression this would work? Do I need to move it to the brake booster line like everyone else is doing?
I have installed a 3 bar map sensor, and converted it over using HP tuners. It idles fine and drives fine until you try and pass 3k RPMS. Its like its cutting all fuel and spark. I am by no means a tuning wizz. But I cant get a tune for another couple of weeks
. I'm pretty sure this will be solved by a good tune tho... For the boost gauge it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Get a PVC cap, an NPT(or whichever you use) air fitting and a coupler. Tap the PVC cap for the air fitting and couple it to the TB. Drop your air pressure to about 10psi then connect your air hose to the fitting. See if you have a leak some where. Or maybe a bad gauge? lol
For the boost gauge it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Get a PVC cap, an NPT(or whichever you use) air fitting and a coupler. Tap the PVC cap for the air fitting and couple it to the TB. Drop your air pressure to about 10psi then connect your air hose to the fitting. See if you have a leak some where. Or maybe a bad gauge? lol
And soujamatt, sometime I feel like getting rid of it! lol
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Hmm , you need to connect boost guage to like line at back of factory intake t off there or at brake master maybe. Evap solenoid don't thin that works at all.
I got a vacuum manifold off ebay for cheap. Tapped and drilled out my fast where my original map went. Then moved my 3 bar to firewall. Ran all my stuff off vacuum manifold.
Boost controller, 3 bar, blow offs, boost referenced fuel reg.
Souns like something really weird is happening. Boost leak could make it not have boost and lose big power but assume you are now running speed density so boost leaks won't have much effect on driveability as they would if you had one behind a maf. In front of maf again won't cause my driveability issues in a blow thru configuration. In a draw thru other story.
Plugs blowing out under boost could cause some issues. Gap them to about .028/.030. If you didn't gap them down to that and left them stock gap could be blowing out spark.
Fuel well you should have of course like 58psi line off on adjustable reg and if on stock reg it should be putting out 58psi at idle.If not you have problems with gauge,pump, clogged filter.
Lets here your full mods ,what is your fuel system. What boost are you trying to run.
Get that boost vac gauge working right. It definitely will show vacuum and boost if connected to right places.
Otherwise may have something really whacked in tuning. Did you do your own 3 bar SD conversion. With hptuners? Do you know what you are doing with the tuning?
I got a vacuum manifold off ebay for cheap. Tapped and drilled out my fast where my original map went. Then moved my 3 bar to firewall. Ran all my stuff off vacuum manifold.
Boost controller, 3 bar, blow offs, boost referenced fuel reg.
Souns like something really weird is happening. Boost leak could make it not have boost and lose big power but assume you are now running speed density so boost leaks won't have much effect on driveability as they would if you had one behind a maf. In front of maf again won't cause my driveability issues in a blow thru configuration. In a draw thru other story.
Plugs blowing out under boost could cause some issues. Gap them to about .028/.030. If you didn't gap them down to that and left them stock gap could be blowing out spark.
Fuel well you should have of course like 58psi line off on adjustable reg and if on stock reg it should be putting out 58psi at idle.If not you have problems with gauge,pump, clogged filter.
Lets here your full mods ,what is your fuel system. What boost are you trying to run.
Get that boost vac gauge working right. It definitely will show vacuum and boost if connected to right places.
Otherwise may have something really whacked in tuning. Did you do your own 3 bar SD conversion. With hptuners? Do you know what you are doing with the tuning?
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I think you need to figure out your fuel pressure problem first of all. Once you get a steady fuel pressure and it rises with boost if its boost referenced and then I'd go from there.
If you have the same problem after getting the fuel pressure then I'd look for a vacuum/boost leak
If you have the same problem after getting the fuel pressure then I'd look for a vacuum/boost leak
I'm running -8 feed with a -6 return. A aeromotive 1301 FPR which I have a vacum line running to my vacum manifold, 83lb injectors, dual walbros, second set on a Hobbs switch for 4psi. It's almost like the gauge is bad. Because it was holding rock steady 50psi(what I had it set for). Then I turned the car off and it was at 27 the next time.
I don't believe I would be blowing spark out. I have tr7's gapped at .032. I wasn't going wot, just cruising up to 3k. So the by pass valve was bleeding anything off...
Also I'm not refrencing from the evap solenoid lol. I'm talking about the port directly off the manifold. Right behind the throttle body on the drivers side. As far as the tuning. Yes I converted it over myself. I have Greg banish's cd, so I know the basics. But I'm by no means a master lol.
I don't believe I would be blowing spark out. I have tr7's gapped at .032. I wasn't going wot, just cruising up to 3k. So the by pass valve was bleeding anything off...
Also I'm not refrencing from the evap solenoid lol. I'm talking about the port directly off the manifold. Right behind the throttle body on the drivers side. As far as the tuning. Yes I converted it over myself. I have Greg banish's cd, so I know the basics. But I'm by no means a master lol.
If you have a massive vacuum leak, it could be equalizing pressure but I would imagine that if that would occur the car as a whole would run like ****. Boost gauge should show both vac and boost. I know mine shows about 20 inches of vac at idle. What brand of gauge did you go with?
