Incon TT Master Thread (All Issues Addressed)
I have quality scans of the Incon Systems Required Equipment, Incon Systems Diagrams and Incon Systems Parts List, if somebody can host them, e-mail me for a copy ryan212@aol.com they are 1mb each.
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan
Good to see there is still an Incon community! I don't get by too often now but still have my car and Incon setup. Hard to believe but my kit will be be 10 years old in January. Mods done were to remove scavenge tanks, correct the relay wiring to eliminate the battery drain, and change the scavenge pump sense lead to the fuel injector circuit.
I had to correct the relay wiring too. lol
The PDF files slow provided are now up at
http://www.classicgm.com/images/incon-diagrams/
The PDF files slow provided are now up at
http://www.classicgm.com/images/incon-diagrams/
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I don't have any pics at the time, but mine's tapped into the pan as high as possible on the passenger side, and about 5-6 inches toward the front of the car from the oil level sensor.
I also had a couple questions:
1) How many PSI are the stock wastegate actuators?
2) Has anyone else had any issues with the line coming off that goes from the PCV valve to the intake and causing it to blow oil all over the passenger side of the motor at only 4 PSI? I don't currently have any type of breather, but I am planning on running a catch can and breather on them.
I also had a couple questions:
1) How many PSI are the stock wastegate actuators?
2) Has anyone else had any issues with the line coming off that goes from the PCV valve to the intake and causing it to blow oil all over the passenger side of the motor at only 4 PSI? I don't currently have any type of breather, but I am planning on running a catch can and breather on them.
Ok, I finally got the new check valve on, got the scavenge pump repositioned into a more efficient angle, and put the catch cans back on. I ran the car for a while and the smoking problems seemed to be gone. I went out and drove it and only when I would really get down on it would a small puff of smoke come out. It seemed to be running a lot better so I got more confident and started hammering on it about just around the block. When I pulled it back into the driveway the "Check Gauges" light was on and the oil pressure was staying at near zero and the temp was pretty high. I pulled it into the garage and popped the hood. There was oil all over the passenger side of the motor and under the hood and the radiator was boiling hot. WTF! I am getting very close to just giving up on this thing. Could a bad turbo cause these issues or is there more I should look into? I almost want to just sell the car at this point, but feel that I would lose my *** if it were less than perfect with everything I have done to it. 
Last edited by bluebird71; Aug 11, 2010 at 12:11 AM.
Wow!!! If you change the word "block" to "road" since I live in a rural area, this could be my story also. The only thing is that I don't have the catch cans. I'm thinking that I need to add a breather/catch can setup to relieve the crankcase pressure. However, do to the springs that we put in the actuators, I'm only seeing 4 lbs. of boost. It appears that the oil is coming out of where the PCV line runs into the front of the intake.
Someone suggested that my crankcase pressure could be too high causing oil to blow oit everywhere as well. What causes this? Can too high viscosity oil contribute to this on top of the boost pressure? Please chime in barnat and help us understand this oil vac thing since you seemed to experience this similar issue.
I'd have to dig around, but I recall there is a check valve that needs to be in place to prevent the crankcase from pressurizing.
The catch cans are not necassary to achieve a well draining and smoke free setup. Before my car was mothballed, I tuned it for 10psi and had no issues.
The catch cans are not necassary to achieve a well draining and smoke free setup. Before my car was mothballed, I tuned it for 10psi and had no issues.
Well I replaced the check valve that goes from the oil pan to the turbos and that helped a lot so if there are more check valves that I need to make everything work properly, I need to know where they should be in place and what kind.
I guess I just have the stock PCV valve on that hose, but no additional check valve. Could this also contribute to my oil pressure dropping? What size PCV check valve do I need for that and where can I find one?
you are missing parts http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#contact/=8btb2b
I think I need the #793k33 off this page for the upper PCV. I want to make sure before I order it though so I don't have to end up getting 2 like I did with the one for the turbo oil feed line.
I think I need the #793k33 off this page for the upper PCV. I want to make sure before I order it though so I don't have to end up getting 2 like I did with the one for the turbo oil feed line.
Last edited by bluebird71; Aug 9, 2010 at 12:21 PM.
I reread your post #50, you've got allot of things going on there. Have you sorted out the oil pressure and coolant temps? Did you have a tune up at least partly dialed in before you hammered on the car? If not, you might want to do a leakdown test (ringland damage)
Yeah, I had it tuned. I think the issue I'm having is with oil blowback. I have an LS6 valley pan, but I still saw a good bit of oil in the intake from when I was previously spraying the motor. Now, with even more pressure in the crank, I need to modify the PCV system to keep up with the demands of the turbo. After doing a lot of research on this, this is the setup I'm going with for that:
As for the over heating issue. I have a few ideas of what may have caused that. I was having some issues with junk in my radiator before I installed the turbos. Its from someone before me mixing the green coolant with the DexCool or putting straight tap water in there. I had it flushed once before at a standard shop, but I may need to take it out to fully clean it or simply replace it with a better one. Could also be from my water pump slipping with my current shitty belt setup that I'm about to change.
As for the over heating issue. I have a few ideas of what may have caused that. I was having some issues with junk in my radiator before I installed the turbos. Its from someone before me mixing the green coolant with the DexCool or putting straight tap water in there. I had it flushed once before at a standard shop, but I may need to take it out to fully clean it or simply replace it with a better one. Could also be from my water pump slipping with my current shitty belt setup that I'm about to change.
Last edited by bluebird71; Aug 15, 2010 at 01:43 PM.