I installed the dual catch cans and new PCV check valve. It seems to have fixed the oiling issues. I used a 1 psi check valve from McMaster Carr. Is that the proper cracking pressure for that spot? I just don't want to have it be too restrictive.

 

Don't know what the spec is on the pcv but sounds like it cured the problem. The catch cans are useless.

 

Why do you say the catch cans are useless? I see a lot of people on here with tub setups (or power levels over about 600 rear wheel) having to run them to keep their intake clean on BOTH sides. I should be pushing well over 800 rwhp on these Stage III GT3076R turbos once I put in the bigger wastegate actuators. Better to do it right the first time than to do it over again the way I see it.

 

Years back it was shown the standard incon cans didn't do anything but drag on the ground

The pcv valve is likely what cured the problem but since you changed 2 things you won't know for sure. But if the problem is resolved that's great.

 

I think you are misunderstanding what I meant by adding the catch cans. Yes, I did put the original Incon catch tanks back on the turbos and yes I did also change out the old check valve and reposition the scavenge pump bracket and yes it is hard to tell which or how many of these things actually contributed to fixing the oil buildup inside the turbos, but it does seem to be fixed non the less. What I have been talking about in my last few posts was adding catch cans to the PCV system for the motor itself. I got a check valve for it like you had suggested earlier, but with the excessive amount of oil I was seeing back in the intake after a few full throttle passes earlier on, I decided to go ahead and add the catch cans into the mix as well. I was having this issue a little before the turbo install along with some oil pressure issues so I figured it would take more than just adding a simpe check valve to totally fix the problem.

I have the LS6 valley pan going through the factory PCV valve to the top of the "dirty" side of the catch tank, then back out and through a 1 psi one-way check valve into the intake. The "clean side goes from the front nipple on the passenger side valve cover, through the tank, and back to the lower turbo intake piping. The driver side and rear passenger side valve cover nipples and TB vacuum have all been capped off. This setup should effectively keep the intake clean under high boost, full throttle blasts and also keep fresh air circulating through the system at part throttle and at idle when there is not significant boost in the turbo piping to pull vapors through. Here are some pics:

 

Thanks for clarification and pics, nice job.

 

Which check valve are you using on the oil return line and do you know that restriction size now or maybe just what size bit you used to drill the weld? I found a .65" restrictor adapter fitting if that would work.

http://www.frsport.com/FRS-T3-Oil-Re...T_p_16155.html

 

I want to move my oil return line from the side of the pan where the old level sensor was and tap into the top front. The original instructions say to put a bit of grease on the end of the drill bit and tap, but is it safe to drill into the oil pan while its still on the car? I really don't want to have to drop the whole thing if I don't need to.

 

LOL, there are probably still threads on this from way back, there was debate back and forth. My car was done with the pan on although I didn't see it done.

I have re-tapped a spark plug hole while the head was still on using the grease trick (another fix of a botched 'pro' install). I used plenty of grease on the tip of the die and backed it out often and replaced the grease.

Worked like a charm.


I did a search and retrieved some comments from trusted people. There are plenty more comments against this method so you should read other posts if you have any doubts:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/2295979-post6.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/2295292-post2.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/6156056-post3.html

 

Seems like the biggest issue they are concerned with is keeping the metal shavigs out of the oil pan. I figure a magnetic bit would help here as well as plenty of grease. I was wondering if I would actually have room to turn the tap with the sway bar there.

 

Magnet won't help as the pan and the shavings are aluminum

 

I guess I'm finally gonna go ahead and tap the front of the pan (on the car) this weekend. I have read up on it and weighed out the pros and cons and decided that given the lack of equipment I have to pretty much raise the whole engine up to remove the pan and the fact that I cant afford to pay a shop a fortune to do it right now, this is really my only option. It says to drill a 19/32" hole in the instructions. That's seems like an odd size, do they make bits that size or will I have to use a different bit and route it out a little? Also, do I need to use any kind of special bit, like a forstner, or is everyone just doing this with standard bits? Also, do most standard taps pretty much all come with NPT threads? Anyone who has done this themselves please share any knowledge of this you may have.

 

I was going to do it, but since it was up on a lift and I had a PA Racing K-member to put on (which doesn't work well with the passenger side turbo for the Incon kit), I decided to just pull the pan to be on the safe side. Now, I'm having trouble getting boost. I've switched actuators and springs, and I'm still only getting 4-5 lbs of boost. Why?

 

These are available in my local hardware store but here are the results of a couple searches. I prefer to buy this stuff at a store so can verify its exactly what is needed:

http://www.amazon.com/Quality-Speed-.../dp/B0007Q3GEY

http://www.amazon.com/High-Carbon-St.../dp/B000UE1VCM

Make sure the tpi count of the tap matches your fitting.

Drill size is always slight less than tap size so the threads can be cut. This link shows the drill bit recommended to be slightly larger, but that may have been done for a reason, like less shavings:

http://icrank.com/cgi-bin/pageman/pa...rt_npt.htm&t=2

 

I heard that the internal actuator flapper valves on the turbos have a bad tendency to stick when the turbos get a little older. Do you think this could be your problem? Maybe sprayin the valves with a good penetrating catalyst would help but I'm sure someone else knows more about it than me.

 

I got some bigger braided lines and a bigger Y-block for the scavenge pump and tapped the return line into the front of the pan. I also added that .65" oil restrictor right before the T-fitting on the turbo oil feed line. Here are a few pics of the scavenge setup:

 

Even after all this, my oil pressure is still VERY low at idle after the motor warms up and engine temps go to just over 210 and stay there. I think I need to be running something thicker then 10W30 and I may need to run an oil cooler setup as well but am afraid of what that's gonna end up costing me.

 

How come you didn't tap the pan above the oil level? I'm getting ready to put my incon on here in a week or two. Just trying to get the last little bits and pieces together. As far as your oil pressure goes....thats a mystery. Have you addes the extra quart of oil?

 

^^^^The whole front area of the pan is above the oil level. It's very shallow right there and when I drilled through it, even with 6 quarts of oil, noting came out. That is the exact same area and angle they tell you to tap in the the original instructions. As for the low oil pressure issues, I was running 10W30 and when I drained it, even after only running it for abut a day, it dripped out like water. I switched to Mobile 1 15W50 yesterday and so far, my oil pressure is looking good even after the motor gets hot. You say to add an extra quart of oil? The original amount for an LS1 is 5.5 qrts, correct? I'm running 6 qrts now so should I go ahead and add another half qrt. as well?

 

I had to end up parting my car out because I had a misfire in #8 and I had pretty much run a ground with $ on this whole turbo setup thing. Anyway, I just wanted to post up on this thread to see if any others running the Incon kit would be interested in these sweet badges I had made. As you know, the Incon kit was the kit used on the famous Lingenfelter C5 Vettes (like the one that raced the Blue Angels jet on takeoff on Car & Driver). I decided to run with that theme and after contacting Lingenfelter to see if I could buy one of their badges and getting shot down by them over and over, I went and had these made to be and exact replica of the ones on that C5 427. My motor was a bored out 346 (kinda like an LS6) so they say "347" but you get the idea. Here are some pics:





And here is a shot of the original badge off the Lingenfelter C5 that gave me the idea:





I actually think they looked better on my T/A honestly. These cost a pretty penny to have custom made and it was hard to find someone who would actually even do them. I'm asking $85 for the set if anyone is interested.