Going from a 22x19x2 to a 24x19x1 to try and solve over heating problem...
08-02-2010, 05:37 PM
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Going from a 22x19x2 to a 24x19x1 to try and solve over heating problem... Right now I have a dual core 22x19x3(dual core-about 2") in my car and im having some serious over heating problems. No matter what I do: thermostat in, no thermostat, removing intercooler, adding a second fan, driving at highway speeds, idling. shrouding..pretty much everything you could think of.
Now the way the car is setup the cross over pipe is almost touching the radiator(its wrapped). Theres no room to move it any farther forward. The inlet is on the bottom driver side and the coolant hose to the water pump is pretty much resting on the cross over as well. Even with the fans on(a 2500cfm pusher and a 1000cfm puller) and the car idling the temp(with or without thermostat) slowly creeps up to 230 eventually.
Last year before I did the turbo setup I was running a cam/nitrous and the stock 350z radiator(31x19x5/8") with only ONE of the two stock 350z fans working and the car never got above 200* with the stock 185* thermostat.
My idea is to switch from the one I have now to a single core 24x19x1.25(2.25 overall) in an attempt to move the radiator an inch forward away from the cross over and also switch the in/out and have the inlet on the passenger side right near the inlet on the water pump so it wont have to run along the cross over before going into the WP.
Im thinking(hoping) that this radiator is too thick and too close to the cross over(I could barely feel air passing through the radiator with the fans on)......what do you guys think?
Now the way the car is setup the cross over pipe is almost touching the radiator(its wrapped). Theres no room to move it any farther forward. The inlet is on the bottom driver side and the coolant hose to the water pump is pretty much resting on the cross over as well. Even with the fans on(a 2500cfm pusher and a 1000cfm puller) and the car idling the temp(with or without thermostat) slowly creeps up to 230 eventually.
Last year before I did the turbo setup I was running a cam/nitrous and the stock 350z radiator(31x19x5/8") with only ONE of the two stock 350z fans working and the car never got above 200* with the stock 185* thermostat.
My idea is to switch from the one I have now to a single core 24x19x1.25(2.25 overall) in an attempt to move the radiator an inch forward away from the cross over and also switch the in/out and have the inlet on the passenger side right near the inlet on the water pump so it wont have to run along the cross over before going into the WP.
Im thinking(hoping) that this radiator is too thick and too close to the cross over(I could barely feel air passing through the radiator with the fans on)......what do you guys think?
08-04-2010, 03:37 AM
#5
To be honest, saying that the fans won't blow through the thicker radiator, isn't the radiators fault. You should be looking for a fan that WILL blow through it. An also a 2000cfm Chinese fan compared to a 2000cfm SPAL fan isn't the same. I bought 2 10" SPAL fans an they blow through my 3" thick radiator no problem.
On the other hand, if you are overheating at freeway speed, you more than likely have an airflow issue. Also, is your steam port connected to the radiator?
On the other hand, if you are overheating at freeway speed, you more than likely have an airflow issue. Also, is your steam port connected to the radiator?
08-04-2010, 03:49 AM
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To be honest, saying that the fans won't blow through the thicker radiator, isn't the radiators fault. You should be looking for a fan that WILL blow through it. An also a 2000cfm Chinese fan compared to a 2000cfm SPAL fan isn't the same. I bought 2 10" SPAL fans an they blow through my 3" thick radiator no problem.
On the other hand, if you are overheating at freeway speed, you more than likely have an airflow issue. Also, is your steam port connected to the radiator?
On the other hand, if you are overheating at freeway speed, you more than likely have an airflow issue. Also, is your steam port connected to the radiator?
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08-04-2010, 04:35 PM
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Well the problem is nothing else fits...so maybe if I go with a thinner raditor it will do the same thing...as far as hood vents im def. not cutting holes in my nismo hood..im in love with that thing lol
08-05-2010, 01:03 AM
#9
Im just saying.... I have used the chinese, and they SUCK AZZ. I have used 2 12" FAL pullers and they were alright, kinda noisy and didnt seem to move much air, but kept the engine cool nonetheless.
Then i changed my turbo location and couldnt use pullers anymore, so after talking to Griffin, the recommended a SPAL fan because of their testing on them. Unfortunately I could only do 2 10" pushers (way less efficient technically) and the SPAL's actually dropped my temps faster than the FAL's ever did.
All im saying is that all fans are not created equal
i hope you figure it out tho, i know it can be frustrating
Then i changed my turbo location and couldnt use pullers anymore, so after talking to Griffin, the recommended a SPAL fan because of their testing on them. Unfortunately I could only do 2 10" pushers (way less efficient technically) and the SPAL's actually dropped my temps faster than the FAL's ever did.
All im saying is that all fans are not created equal
i hope you figure it out tho, i know it can be frustrating
08-05-2010, 12:41 PM
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Unfort. I dont have any pictures of the setup and I cant since it is already apart but the smaller fan is offset closer to the outlet on the rad. I tried it directly in the middle and offset, with or without intercooler in the way and nothing changes the temp.
08-07-2010, 10:37 AM
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Cant see much detail in the pics.
But fans should cover as much of the core as possible. So never mount two in the same position.
side by side is best, that way they draw air through pretty much the entire core.
Also ensure no air can flow past the sides of the radiator when driving. Seal off all possible bypass routes. This can also ensure that when stationary or moving slowly, no hot air can be drawn and re-circulated through the core.
What is the makeup of the system, and how much water ? Does the rad have adequate air removal if it is higher than the engine ? ie a bleed port to the header tank ?
Likewise, the cylinder head air bleeds....are you using 2 or 4 ? 4 does apparently help. Again, bleeding air back to the header tank which will be the highest point in the cooling system.
The radiator in my car is less than ideal, and there is a whopping intercooler in front of it. But taking note of all the above items, I do have temperature pretty much under control
But fans should cover as much of the core as possible. So never mount two in the same position.
side by side is best, that way they draw air through pretty much the entire core.
Also ensure no air can flow past the sides of the radiator when driving. Seal off all possible bypass routes. This can also ensure that when stationary or moving slowly, no hot air can be drawn and re-circulated through the core.
What is the makeup of the system, and how much water ? Does the rad have adequate air removal if it is higher than the engine ? ie a bleed port to the header tank ?
Likewise, the cylinder head air bleeds....are you using 2 or 4 ? 4 does apparently help. Again, bleeding air back to the header tank which will be the highest point in the cooling system.
The radiator in my car is less than ideal, and there is a whopping intercooler in front of it. But taking note of all the above items, I do have temperature pretty much under control
08-07-2010, 10:39 AM
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In fact...looking again, it looks like when driving, air will just sail past your radiator to the left where the blower is.
The fan ducting/shroud also looks poor. Can air be blown onto the core, and sikmply bounce back off and out ? Any ducts or shrouds must ensure there is no possibility of air escape, other than passing through the core.
Taking time to ensure there is airflow through the core doesnt cost a lot of money, and will make a huge difference
The fan ducting/shroud also looks poor. Can air be blown onto the core, and sikmply bounce back off and out ? Any ducts or shrouds must ensure there is no possibility of air escape, other than passing through the core.
Taking time to ensure there is airflow through the core doesnt cost a lot of money, and will make a huge difference
08-07-2010, 04:00 PM
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Right now I have a dual core 22x19x3(dual core-about 2") in my car and im having some serious over heating problems. No matter what I do: thermostat in, no thermostat, removing intercooler, adding a second fan, driving at highway speeds, idling. shrouding..pretty much everything you could think of.
Now the way the car is setup the cross over pipe is almost touching the radiator(its wrapped). Theres no room to move it any farther forward. The inlet is on the bottom driver side and the coolant hose to the water pump is pretty much resting on the cross over as well. Even with the fans on(a 2500cfm pusher and a 1000cfm puller) and the car idling the temp(with or without thermostat) slowly creeps up to 230 eventually.
Last year before I did the turbo setup I was running a cam/nitrous and the stock 350z radiator(31x19x5/8") with only ONE of the two stock 350z fans working and the car never got above 200* with the stock 185* thermostat.
My idea is to switch from the one I have now to a single core 24x19x1.25(2.25 overall) in an attempt to move the radiator an inch forward away from the cross over and also switch the in/out and have the inlet on the passenger side right near the inlet on the water pump so it wont have to run along the cross over before going into the WP.
Im thinking(hoping) that this radiator is too thick and too close to the cross over(I could barely feel air passing through the radiator with the fans on)......what do you guys think?
Now the way the car is setup the cross over pipe is almost touching the radiator(its wrapped). Theres no room to move it any farther forward. The inlet is on the bottom driver side and the coolant hose to the water pump is pretty much resting on the cross over as well. Even with the fans on(a 2500cfm pusher and a 1000cfm puller) and the car idling the temp(with or without thermostat) slowly creeps up to 230 eventually.
Last year before I did the turbo setup I was running a cam/nitrous and the stock 350z radiator(31x19x5/8") with only ONE of the two stock 350z fans working and the car never got above 200* with the stock 185* thermostat.
My idea is to switch from the one I have now to a single core 24x19x1.25(2.25 overall) in an attempt to move the radiator an inch forward away from the cross over and also switch the in/out and have the inlet on the passenger side right near the inlet on the water pump so it wont have to run along the cross over before going into the WP.
Im thinking(hoping) that this radiator is too thick and too close to the cross over(I could barely feel air passing through the radiator with the fans on)......what do you guys think?
This happened to a friends car where his downpipe was almost touching his radiator (dual core vs single core stock) and it would get hot. Then when he switched manifold/dp setup the over heating stopped.
08-08-2010, 09:23 AM
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Based on the bolded statements it has NOTHING to do with your radiator set up. It has to do with the poorly routed hot side piping. If you fix the relationship between the radiator hoses/radiator and the ht side i bet your problem will clear up instantly.
This happened to a friends car where his downpipe was almost touching his radiator (dual core vs single core stock) and it would get hot. Then when he switched manifold/dp setup the over heating stopped.
This happened to a friends car where his downpipe was almost touching his radiator (dual core vs single core stock) and it would get hot. Then when he switched manifold/dp setup the over heating stopped.
