mike mlodecki

iTrader: (9)

I have a 1998 trans am completely stock 100k miles, now I look at other people sigs and they have d1scs and different things on each vehicle. I want to know exactly what kind of parts to look for to make the bottom end stronger, Im already getting a FLT lvl 5 4L65E, maybe stall? not sure yet, and a 9" rear. What does the engine need? pistons rods valves lifters rockers oil pump timing chain? ect ect. I also just read that a meth kit would work good.

I had a 2000 t/a a while back with a p1sc kit at 7lbs and needed nothing.

If i get a cam i want a small one like hotcam, ls6 cam or a 212/218 nothing big.

Heads I want stock. Im getting american racing headers as well 1 7/8.

I want to push about 8-12lbs of boost prob. keep it around 10lbs. I want to keep it as a street car.

lmk what you guys think on what stuff to get for the car.

Thanks

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

With 100,000 miles on your engine, you could get by with keeping the engine stock if you wanted to run 8 psi of boost. Back in 2002 we installed a D-1SC on my '99 Z28 when the engine had 110,000 miles on it. I drove it pretty hard for three years and never had any problems with it. For 10 psi or more I would upgrade the internals. Compstar rods, Diamond pistons, Total Seal rings, ARP head studs, GM MLS head gaskets, Melling oil pump, Comp cam, Comp timing chain and Patriot Gold valvesprings will easily handle 700 to 800 rwhp with the stock crank. Patriot LQ9 Stage 11 heads are a good way to go and include their Patriot Gold valvesprings. By the time you had a valve job and new valvesprings installed in your present heads you probably wouldn't be too far from the price of the Patriot heads. You'll need to find a good machine shop that uses torque plates for the block. If you keep boost around 10 psi you can get by with the fuel system comprising of two Walbro fuel pumps banded together in the tank.
Here is the ProCharger D-1SC system that I recommend. http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...F-Body-Kit.htm This system includes the wider eight rib belt and thicker 4.5" twin intercoolers. Some places advertise D-1SC systems for these cars but they use the base P-1SC system and just upgrade the head unit. You would end up with the narrower 6 rib belt and the thinner 3.5" intercoolers. With the above system I include 60# fuel injectors, Walbro fuel pump, the necessary for the eight rib ATI Performance Products harmonic balancer and the ATI Performance Products crank pinning kit.
Here is a link regarding the rear end that may help you out. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...nformation.htm
Since you don't yet have an aftermarket torque arm, the Moser fabricated M9 that includes an awesome torque arm would be a great way to go. Here is a link to this rear end. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-M9-...y-Complete.htm
I would also highly recommend subframe connectors, I have had good results with the BMR box tube subframe connectors. http://shop.brutespeed.com/BMR-SFC00...C001SFC004.htm

Hopefully this helps. Bob

mike mlodecki

iTrader: (9)

See im just nervous about parts breaking down, like rods and pistons, Lets say this, I had a p1sc before at 7 psi, now if i kept the d1sc at 8 psi would that really be any different in power? only 1 psi? But saying that internals hold up, you would HIGHLY reccomend upgrading the rear end and tranny?

I need help lol. Can someone just make me a list....I've been doing research for a long time...I just don't want to screw it up.

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

What is your end goal with the car? Are you wanting 700+rwhp later on? Is it going to be on the track much? etc.

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

yes, the d1sc at 8 psi will be harder then the 7 psi on the p1sc. Even at identical pressures, the D1SC will flow more air at any given RPM.

Aster

iTrader: (9)

You will probably be making somewhere between 525 - 550 rwhp with the D1 at 8psi. You will need to upgrade your fuel pump and injectors, otherwise the tuner kit will basically have what you need. Just don't do any hard launches and the rear end should hold up for a little while, but it will be on borrowed time. Everytime I save up to buy a new one for myself I end up having to spend the money on something else. Make sure your tune is good and a little conservative to try and save those stock pistons.

mike mlodecki

iTrader: (9)

My goal is around 550-600 RWHP, I know the tranny and rear must be upgraded, Im getting headers fast 90/90, stalled, If I go with the procharger route i want to keep stock heads and cam, is that possible? I am also upgrading to forged pistons and rods. Would I need upgraded rockers?

Thanks.

youngrigo

If your going to be in your motor upgrading the pistons and rods why not put a cam in it? I would do a cam and LS6 intake instead of the Fast 90/90 IMO

Brigger18

iTrader: (20)

I agree, save your money and DON'T buy the fast intake. Spend the money else where. Buy the cam that works well with a blower.

mike mlodecki

iTrader: (9)

ok well and above response to not buy fast intake, and if i go cam route as well, then i would need all accessories as well with it.

How about this, with everything that is needed to support a D-1SC procharger at 10 psi, a 9" rear FLT trans level 5, and everything else needed, like timing chain oil pump, ls6 intake cam, maybe pistons rods rockers etc..

anyone have a idea what this would price out to with everything needed?

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

If your tight on budget go with:

D1SC or P1 (if you have to) Blower setup from Bob@Brute speed (Make sure you get the 8rib kit and bigger I/C's
Twin walbro pumps 255's or GS340's
60 lb/hr injectors
Stock rails will do it, but after market rails improve fuel flow
Eagle rods
Mahle or other pistons of choice
brute speed cam (many make good numbers on this cam and it sounds great)
Pushrods
LS7 Lifters

You can make your goals on a stock motor if you want, but forged is a better option.

ARP 2000 Rod bolts
ARP Head studs
GM MLS gaskets
Stock 241 heads if you want
LS6 Intake
FLT Trans with tripple disc converter
Headders and exhaust
LS2 Timing chain
Mellings oil pump
GOOD TUNE, GOOD TUNE....oh did I mention good tune? lol

If anyone can think of better parts or missing things chime in....I'm sure I'm missing something lol

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Hell just run around with the D1SC on your stock motor and try to save up for your other stuff like rearend, forged parts, etc. Like others have said I would skip the Fast 90 setup. Im running a LS6 intake at 16psi right now and others have ran ALOT more. Spend that grand on something like your fuel system or getting your forged motor build going.

You wanting to stay stock cubes when you go forged?
If so, I would do some K-1 rods with Wiseco pistons and ARP head/main studs. I'd get the Brutespeed blower cam too.

mike mlodecki

iTrader: (9)

yes stock cubes with forged internals, I dont got a ton of cash. and those pistons and rods are forged? 1 thing I NEED to know can I keep the stock rockers with 10 psi and round 550-600rwhp?

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Those rods and pistons are some of the best parts out there and they wont break the bank (its whats in my motor). I am running stock rockers on my build right now and Im putting down 780 to the wheels.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I have always have very good results with the stock rockers, I don't see a reason to spend money on different rockers for your build. Bob