Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Bye-bye bottle. Hello twins. LS Coupe refit.

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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by madmax4499
I think you will find that 2.5 is just about right from the collector to the t-4 flange. your running 3" down pipes out of the back of the TC-76's correct. if it's race only i would dump it.
I'll run whatever size I need for a max effort, but if my 3.5" exhaust system doesn't hurt power, or won't hurt it very much, I'd like the stealth of it... Your thoughts?
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by madmax4499
that is going to be fun. im doing twin TC-70 65's
Nice... Do you have a build thread anywhere?
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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Nice looking build! I would say 2.5" collector on the headers and 2.5" pipe to the turbo's, then 3.5 Downpipes. Did you do you chassis work? Looks great!!
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted One
Nice looking build! I would say 2.5" collector on the headers and 2.5" pipe to the turbo's, then 3.5 Downpipes. Did you do you chassis work? Looks great!!
Thanks for the scooby. And all the work was done in house. Here's all the build pics from day one. http://s581.photobucket.com/albums/s...la/LS%20Coupe/ (405 photos)
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 09:14 PM
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what mufflers are those? straight thru? if so, **** ya. thats a very nice exhaust. a little heavy, but meh. IMO, you may think about an AL exhaust.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 09:21 PM
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i also suggest you check out yb's turbo section. lots of hard core turbo stuff in there.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by kmracer
what mufflers are those? straight thru? if so, **** ya. thats a very nice exhaust. a little heavy, but meh. IMO, you may think about an AL exhaust.
They Dynomax mufflers and they go straight through with a divider thingy... Not sure what that does if anything.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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im sure those are fine.
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Some mock up ideas while I'm waiting on hot side parts. This is kinda where I'm going with this setup. Elbow towards the firewall (I'll either have to mill this elbow to get the bottom of the TB above the firewall seam of fab a new one)... I'll deal with that when the time comes. The air/water intercooler will mount on the floor where the passenger seat in now.

I'm also going to put a nitrous halo between the TB and the elbow. I'm might wanna use it off the trans brake to spool the turbos instead of building boost with the foot brake. I can turn it off after it's leaves... Just and idea for some local club and grudge races.


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Old May 15, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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Subscribed.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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Here are a few pics of my headers. I was not able to use the Stainless Works headers BUT that does not mean that you can't use them for your turbo LS Fox body build. The only reason I could not use them is because I'm using a taller ETP heads (It's .750" taller than a production head) and I'm using a taller valve cover (because I'm using Jesel J2K rocker arms) You can use the Stainless Works headers with taller aftermarket heads or taller valve covers... Just not both at the same time. The "up and forward" F-body headers will not clear. If you have any other questions about using F-body Stainless Works headers on a Fox Body mustang, you can post your questions here, or send me a PM... I'll be happy to help.

I should have some mock up pics of the Stainless Works headers in my old camera. I'll post them up as soon as I can get them downloaded.







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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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So are you going to build your own set of headers then? Sucks those SW arent going to work out for you.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Fb0dy0nly
So are you going to build your own set of headers then? Sucks those SW arent going to work out for you.
Yes. The headers in the above pictures are mine. The SW headers did not fit for the reasons I listed, but they can work with stock valves covers or standard height heads... That's the main point. I wanted folks to know that you can buy the Stainless Works headers for your Foxbody Mustang (if you remember there are limitations)... Trust me, it's a lot easier/cheaper to buy mass produced headers than to do what I did above. The parts and labor for custom headers does/will exceed the cost of the Stainless Works headers.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:58 AM
  #34  
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Looks great buddy.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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I just saw this thread and I like it! the reason i say that is im not trying to rain on your parade but the area of each collector after the 4 pipes have combined where the pipe necks down at that angle, not optimal. it needs a smoother blend, having a (mostly) flat ring around the pipe in such a fashion will cause a section of extreme turbulence in the flow.

I suggest you saw the collector off just upstream of that area and use a "cone" or "megaphone" pipe instead. it will weld on at whatever diameter you need and very smoothly taper down to the desired diameter.

ps, you did an awesome job building those header regardless
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CarsandWomen
I just saw this thread and I like it! the reason i say that is im not trying to rain on your parade but the area of each collector after the 4 pipes have combined where the pipe necks down at that angle, not optimal. it needs a smoother blend, having a (mostly) flat ring around the pipe in such a fashion will cause a section of extreme turbulence in the flow.

I suggest you saw the collector off just upstream of that area and use a "cone" or "megaphone" pipe instead. it will weld on at whatever diameter you need and very smoothly taper down to the desired diameter.

ps, you did an awesome job building those header regardless
Thanks. But I'm going to try them as is for now. One reason is I'm not going to be using twins any longer... Due to packaging issues, I decided to go with a larger frame single for the car. I did not want to give up the dry sump, alternator and my very street friendly twin fan radiator. So when I add the tubing off those collectors, the air will have a chance to straighten out by the tine it hits the exhaust housing of the turbo... So I think it will be OK. But time and testing will prove me a hero or zero.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by LSmonster
Thanks. But I'm going to try them as is for now. One reason is I'm not going to be using twins any longer... Due to packaging issues, I decided to go with a larger frame single for the car. I did not want to give up the dry sump, alternator and my very street friendly twin fan radiator. So when I add the tubing off those collectors, the air will have a chance to straighten out by the tine it hits the exhaust housing of the turbo... So I think it will be OK. But time and testing will prove me a hero or zero.
ahh ok gotcha. Im gonna steal that saying ......
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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very nice work so far and I'm sure it's going to be sick when completed
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CarsandWomen
I just saw this thread and I like it! the reason i say that is im not trying to rain on your parade but the area of each collector after the 4 pipes have combined where the pipe necks down at that angle, not optimal. it needs a smoother blend, having a (mostly) flat ring around the pipe in such a fashion will cause a section of extreme turbulence in the flow.

I suggest you saw the collector off just upstream of that area and use a "cone" or "megaphone" pipe instead. it will weld on at whatever diameter you need and very smoothly taper down to the desired diameter.

ps, you did an awesome job building those header regardless

I used the same collectors on my last build and make plenty of steam with them

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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:47 AM
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I would use the collectors, in-fact where did you get them?
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