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98 Camaro Z28 Twin Turbo 427 ERL LS2 Pics

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Old 05-03-2011, 09:35 PM
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Grr, you're corect. 6" in front of bellhousing or firewall and no fule lines or regulator or brake lines can be mounted to the firewall. I guess I'lls be re-doing a project again. It's not like I haven't had to re-do projects twice or even three times in the past. Getting use to it by now. Thankfully, I do enjoy working on the car. I just don't enjoy spending even more money on it. Of course, my fuel lines are now too short so I either get real creative or start over. Stinks.
Old 05-03-2011, 09:39 PM
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Completely sick! Requesting a video of this monster.
Old 05-03-2011, 10:03 PM
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I have some old videos of it on the street going sideways when the turbos kicked in and a video of it on the dyno when the head lifted, but I will wait and post some videos when it gets running again. It should be very soon, meaning in about 30-60 days. I'll keep posting more pics til the end. I am glad I started this thread becuase I already rooted out a problem with the fuel line and regulator. I have the 2010 NHRA Rule Book and Section 20, Rule 1:5 says what I said previously. Also, you may as well run stainless braided line from back to front. I see the nylon braided is ok now, but I think I would feel safer with the stainless braided hose, especially in the flywheel and driveshaft areas, which is the whole way from back to front. My return is stainless but my feed is nylon braided. I had it and wanted to try it. It is the only non-steel braied line on the car. Go figure. I may as well change that while I'm at it. Money, money, money. It never ends.
Old 05-03-2011, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mdbreaux
Grr, you're corect. 6" in front of bellhousing or firewall and no fule lines or regulator or brake lines can be mounted to the firewall. I guess I'lls be re-doing a project again. It's not like I haven't had to re-do projects twice or even three times in the past. Getting use to it by now. Thankfully, I do enjoy working on the car. I just don't enjoy spending even more money on it. Of course, my fuel lines are now too short so I either get real creative or start over. Stinks.
just use a bulkhead or union fitting.
Old 05-03-2011, 10:50 PM
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How did you run the exhaust? Did you go both through the passenger side?
Old 05-03-2011, 11:03 PM
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Great build, I run the push lock hose to the trans then use braided to the engine. so the fuel lines can be next to the fire wall as long as it is not attached? I need to get a new rule book before i start putting mine together. I like your ideas.
Old 05-04-2011, 06:16 AM
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Damn Mike your TIG welding is coming along nicely. I am trying to get out of the shop to come see you.
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:29 AM
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That is beautiful!! I like the turbo placement and the huge IC. Looks killer man!
Old 05-04-2011, 11:01 AM
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whos valve covers?
Old 05-04-2011, 12:55 PM
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1. I think I am going to kmracer's idea dn use a bulkead fitting somewhere under the car, but I am going to weld a plate to put the fittings in and terminate both my long run fuel lines there and then take off from there into the engine compartment. That way, I will have two segements of fuel line in case of needing to remove or change the ones in the engine compartment.
2. Madmax, I was thinking of the same thing. I am not sure if the fuel lines can come very close of to9uch the firewall without being mounted to them. Ideally, mine need to run close to the firewall, which is the way they are right now. Otherwise, I am going to have to string fuel line all over the frickin place. I'll ask the expert - Madman before I redo my fuel lines. I'll post his expert opinion on that one.
3. 2000NHRAFormula, Madman plut a BMR k member on that accomodates dual 4" exhaust run through the k member. Thus, eachn side of the engine has the 4" exhaust running through the kmember, and believe me, it is super nice. Great call, Madman, that exhaust is easy to pull in and out of there and runs through everything perfectly.
4. Madman, like someone once said, necessity leads to invention (or something like that). Basically, I had to learn to Tig weld so I can get the car finished before I get too old. I bought the Tig welder about one year ago and started teaching myself. It was a bitch at first, but after making every mistake I possibly could, reading alot abnout it, asking alot of questions, I finally got to the point where I can weld decent. However, I do compare my welds to yours and clearly you have mnuch more experience, particularly with out of position welds, where yours look good and mine are hit or miss. Oh well, at least I can do some of these projects myself.
5. LS1redZ, remember I took that huge air to air intercooler out and am planning for the air to water intercooler since the car is not going back on the street. The block is filled, so that pretty much ruins it ever going back on the street. Keeps me out of jail or the cemetary anyway.
Old 05-04-2011, 12:59 PM
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On the Tig welding again, on the bumper support subframe extension, I tig welded the tops of the subframe extensions I made, but after burning my eyes several times from blocking the helmet auto darkening sensors, and after some crappy welds on the underside, I pulled out the Mig and did the undersides. I have not yet mastered the upside down Tig weld. I did finally master it with the Mig, but I need to figure out the upside Tig weld thing. It is very difficult to use the Tig if you are not on the work bench in a controlled position. I have, however, witnessed Madman Tig the hell out of some stuff in all sorts of awkard positions at the race track and in his shop. But he does it professionally for a living and I am just lucky to do it to the extent I am doing now.
Old 05-04-2011, 01:16 PM
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I forgot, Trans2000am, the carbon fiber valve covers come from scooterperformance.com. They are ridiculously expensive ($500) and come with some very nice brackets to mount the ignition coils on top of them. ERL told me they had problems with carbon fiber covers leaking. I can't imagine that would be a problem, but I will soon see. If they do not leak, I would say they are worth the money because they are so damn nice looking and why not spend some extra money on the top of the engine, which will be seen every time you open your hood. However, if they leak, I'll be pissed.
Old 05-04-2011, 01:19 PM
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Great build michael!! Pics are awesome....i'm jealous of your welding, real nice. Can't wait to see this thing blast down the track!! Congrats
Old 05-04-2011, 01:28 PM
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Becareful and watch the back 2 cylinders when you turn the wick up.
Old 05-04-2011, 01:53 PM
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Beast!!!!
Old 05-04-2011, 02:00 PM
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Awesome build.
Old 05-04-2011, 04:12 PM
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Hey Phil, I met you at Memphis LSX in 2009 with Madman. What do you mean? FYI, I am planning to run no more than 30 psi, which is nothing with racing fuel and water intercooler. Please explain so I can learn from a well known veteran to this.
Old 05-04-2011, 04:13 PM
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Tracy, whenever you want to redo any welds, come over for the day one Saturday and we can get any welds of yours nice and tight. No problem at all for a childhood friend. Funny you found this thread so quickly.
Old 05-04-2011, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mdbreaux
Hey Phil, I met you at Memphis LSX in 2009 with Madman. What do you mean? FYI, I am planning to run no more than 30 psi, which is nothing with racing fuel and water intercooler. Please explain so I can learn from a well known veteran to this.

I want to know also. You already have the bleed pipes on the back side of the heads.
Old 05-04-2011, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mdbreaux
Hey Phil, I met you at Memphis LSX in 2009 with Madman. What do you mean? FYI, I am planning to run no more than 30 psi, which is nothing with racing fuel and water intercooler. Please explain so I can learn from a well known veteran to this.
That intake manifold with short elbow has extremely bad airflow distribution. You will have 2 cylinders really rich and 2 cylinders really lean. Be careful at that boost level.


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