Stock stroke forged cranks?
Stock stroke forged cranks? What are the current stock stroke forged crank options these days? I'm having what I think is the same problem again and this time it came around very quick.
Around November of last year I was at a track rental when I noticed that I lost a little bit of oil pressure (about 7 psi). I tore the motor down and found a beat up #4 main bearing. Had the stock crank checked and it was bent .006. The bearing never spun so I figured that the line bore was good. Bought another stock crank, had it balanced and put it back together. I was getting her ready to go to the track and making some pulls on the street to get the tune close (I switched engine management systems while it was down). Turned it up to 15 psi (7 less than when it got hurt last time) and made a very clean pull in 1st (Powerglide) to 7500 RPM. When I let off, I noticed that I was down 7-9 psi again. I've changed the oil and found some copper dust in there so I'm guessing it's the same **** again. The stock cranks are supposed to be good at my power level. Not sure if the weight of the car is loading it too much or if it's just a line bore problem. Figure now is the time to look into dropping a stock stroke forged crank in there if the line bore checks out. I intend to reuse the rods, pistons and rings as cylinder walls are fine and she doesn't smoke at all.
Let me know what options are available.
Thanks.
Around November of last year I was at a track rental when I noticed that I lost a little bit of oil pressure (about 7 psi). I tore the motor down and found a beat up #4 main bearing. Had the stock crank checked and it was bent .006. The bearing never spun so I figured that the line bore was good. Bought another stock crank, had it balanced and put it back together. I was getting her ready to go to the track and making some pulls on the street to get the tune close (I switched engine management systems while it was down). Turned it up to 15 psi (7 less than when it got hurt last time) and made a very clean pull in 1st (Powerglide) to 7500 RPM. When I let off, I noticed that I was down 7-9 psi again. I've changed the oil and found some copper dust in there so I'm guessing it's the same **** again. The stock cranks are supposed to be good at my power level. Not sure if the weight of the car is loading it too much or if it's just a line bore problem. Figure now is the time to look into dropping a stock stroke forged crank in there if the line bore checks out. I intend to reuse the rods, pistons and rings as cylinder walls are fine and she doesn't smoke at all.
Let me know what options are available.
Thanks.
Just out of curiousity, what kind of power level are you in? I'm sure that I'm not anywhere near yours, but just wondering co'z I've just ordered a 370 LQ9shortblock from AES to replace my hurt 347. I'm now wondering if I should have gone with the 398.
callies makes them
8.9x at 3800lbs...
8.9x at 3800lbs...
Last edited by TurboS10; May 20, 2011 at 02:46 AM.
9 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,672
Likes: 9
From: Colorado Springs, Co/ Central, Ca
The callies would be my choice. I think the RPM combined with heavy parts is whats killing your crank. The main caps could be stretched too. That things gotta sound wicked tho at 7500RPM
7500 RPM stock stroke at sub 1000 rwhp shouldn't be effecting the mains. I really shouldn't be having problems with the stock cranks at this power level either. I've heard that K1 makes a good crank for this power level as well.
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
Trending Topics
7500 RPM stock stroke at sub 1000 rwhp shouldn't be effecting the mains. I really shouldn't be having problems with the stock cranks at this power level either. I've heard that K1 makes a good crank for this power level as well.
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
7500 RPM stock stroke at sub 1000 rwhp shouldn't be effecting the mains. I really shouldn't be having problems with the stock cranks at this power level either. I've heard that K1 makes a good crank for this power level as well.
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
Los, I just looked up those K1 cranks and noticed they make a billet rod for our motors as well and they're only $520 where I found them, you ever hear anything about them? If they're any kind of decent i'll put those in the motor I build, that price is amazing for a billet rod, next cheapest is the Howards at around $820.
If this crank is bad, I'm going aftermarket. Buying a stock piece in order to then have to modify it and change the reluctor to make it work just doesn't make sense to me.
I was talking to Evo Jeff today about that stuff. It's Carrillo's low dollar stuff from what I have understood. Those rods with good hardware are supposedly good to 250 hp each. That's decent. I got a price of $750 for an Eagle crank. Waiting to here back on the K1 from our local speed shop.
I could give a **** where it's made if it works. I'm all for supporting legislature to increase the price of Chinese goods in order to help American companies compete but until that happens, I gotta go with bang for the buck.
If this crank is bad, I'm going aftermarket. Buying a stock piece in order to then have to modify it and change the reluctor to make it work just doesn't make sense to me.
I could give a **** where it's made if it works. I'm all for supporting legislature to increase the price of Chinese goods in order to help American companies compete but until that happens, I gotta go with bang for the buck.
If this crank is bad, I'm going aftermarket. Buying a stock piece in order to then have to modify it and change the reluctor to make it work just doesn't make sense to me.
Thanks for the info los, might just do those rods with a 3.9" K1 crank in an iron block, should be a pretty stout bitch and put it together for fairly cheap! Or maybe just use a stock stroke crank so I can use off the shelf pistons and not have to pay for custom. 
Not sure how much work is involved to make it work, but the LSA crank is cheap...
7500 RPM stock stroke at sub 1000 rwhp shouldn't be effecting the mains. I really shouldn't be having problems with the stock cranks at this power level either. I've heard that K1 makes a good crank for this power level as well.
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
I don't think that the LSA crank is interchangeable with the LS1 cranks. Could someone verify?
Your power level is definitely in the upper end of the stock crank's spectrum. I'd be willing to be whhat makes your combo different than the others who's cranks are surviving is the RPM. It would probably live a long, happy life at 6500 as opposed to 7500.
