Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

I had to pull out my new T4 crossover pipe to get the coating repaired as it all flaked back off a couple weeks after install.

Now i have the newly coated piece back and as I'm looking it over I notice that the flange looks REALLY warped on the short sides while the long sides appear flat. Here's the pics I just took:




Yep, I had the .022, .023, and .024 feelers in there. That's .069 warp in 2.75"!??? That can't be right.

Does this mean that I'm going to have to get my flange milled flat? Because I'd guess that's what it SHOULD be... FLAT.

This is a welding issue, right? Or could something else cause this?

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

I just checked the turbo and its completely flat on all 4 edges. This can't be right.

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

try measuring with something other than the plastic ruler. get a metal straightedge and see how bad it is...

but yes, welding can cause that, you might be able to mill it flat if its not too bad

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

It's off pretty much that far using the feeler gauges themselves as well, I just needed to use them to measure how far it was off... thats why I added the 2nd pic with the feeler gauges flat against the flange too...

In any case, I guess this needs to be corrected. Great. Here I thought I'd have the car for the Memorial Day weekend.

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

You can just have it machined flat, if your worried about it being to thin do a weld overlay on the flange before milling it.

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

Just sucks, cuz its a brand new flange, welded onto a brand new cross over pipe I just paid to have fabbed and coated.

damn damn damn

tripblackls1

iTrader: (11)

meh, i would just bolt it up run it threw a heat cycle and retightin the and repeat a few times
a lil bit of heat and tension should fix it right up and well if it does not then you have to pull it off and get it machined

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Heat it up with a torch, bolt a spare turbine housing to it, let it cool.

NBM-LS1

iTrader: (7)

Bolt it on.
it will be ok.

madmax4499

iTrader: (3)

let me guess it is a stainless flange? that is why most builders use mild flange welded to the stainless pipe using 309 rod. you can use the 304 flange but you need a skilled welder that wont use to much heat and warp your flange.

stevieturbo

Welding warps things. It's difficult for it not to happen regardless of material.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

you know its warped... so you shouldnt just bolt it on.
I wouldnt weld on it more.. that wont really help.... plus its coated.

just have a shop deck it flat. it will then be perfectly flat. your coating is not effected. its still going to be thick enough... and it will seal correctly.

killernoodle

Next time bolt it to a turbine housing when welding it up (if you can). This will act like a heatsink and draw some of the excess heat out of the flange and hopefully keep everything straighter. Another thing to try is to weld small sections at a time instead of trying to do the whole thing at once. This prevents heat buildup in the part and warping.

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

that is why you bolt on a 1/2" plate when finish welding the flange. The plate will keep the flange "flatter" and pull heat out to keep it from getting too hot when welding.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

X2. This should be the easist to try (and should help the issue).

91blowthru

My new t4 flannel is warped pretty good from tig welding schedule 10 stainless to it. Sucks, I'm gonna try to have it milled flat.

TPIIROC

iTrader: (1)

I would take it to a belt sander and you would be back in business.

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

NO way to make sure it's flat with a belt sander. Horrible idea.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

belt sander is a pretty bad idea.

forgedlt4

a table mounted belt sander will get it flat.

i have seen it done DOZENS of times