My rear mount standalone oiling system, have a question



Also run your return pump for 30 seconds after shutdown and see if you still get leaks.
Last edited by TracyRR; Jul 12, 2011 at 01:55 PM.
But wouldn't a check valve on the suction side of the return just make it even more difficult to draw the oil? Man I really hate to change my lines now that every thing is mounted but its still cheaper that buying another exa. Or possibly I could switch the pumps around so they do each others job because I know the exa is kinda overkill for that anyway but im not sure I trust the life of my turbo in the hands of a stupid diaphragm pump
I mean the return pump does work im just not sure it's enough, when I watch the oil drain back in the resivor it comes in small quick spurts I have no idea what that indicates though Trending Topics
But wouldn't a check valve on the suction side of the return just make it even more difficult to draw the oil? Man I really hate to change my lines now that every thing is mounted but its still cheaper that buying another exa. Or possibly I could switch the pumps around so they do each others job because I know the exa is kinda overkill for that anyway but im not sure I trust the life of my turbo in the hands of a stupid diaphragm pump
I mean the return pump does work im just not sure it's enough, when I watch the oil drain back in the resivor it comes in small quick spurts I have no idea what that indicates thoughIn my opinion I would ditch the entire standalone system because it is too complicated for something that is quite simple. Engine pressure to feed the turbo, a check valve and oil restrictor to control the maximum flow, and one pump to return scavenged oil.
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In my opinion I would ditch the entire standalone system because it is too complicated for something that is quite simple. Engine pressure to feed the turbo, a check valve and oil restrictor to control the maximum flow, and one pump to return scavenged oil.
A self contained oiling system is certainly more complicated than the alternative....but if i hurt my engine, it won't hurt my turbo's and vice versa. Also, you are able to prime your turbo's before and after running the engine. It is not for everyone but i'm glad i have it.
Those pumps are doing the job, but the problem is inside the turbo.
Those pumps are doing the job, but the problem is inside the turbo.
And for the record, i used a shurflo 8000 243 610 pump myself.
Forgive me for asking, but I don't see this in the pictures, and you have not said whether or not the turbo is smoking! Usually turbos will smoke like a **** if the oil is coming out of the compressor or turbine areas. My car has imitated a crop duster several times due to this
If the leak does not dissipate then simply add the check valve and oil restrictor pre-turbo and see how it does. Here is another idea : I also have a 6 inch drainage drop on mine, but I got creative with some radiator bypass hose that has a 180 degree u-bend. This allows the oil to collect at the lowest point on the return line before the pump picks it back up. I don't think it matters, but I am using a Mocal/Tilton diaphragm style pump. The pump is higher than the turbo but oil simply cannot drain back into the turbo due to the bend. It works great. You can buy 5/8 bypass hose with a bend at any auto parts store.
To the OP, i think your problem is the suction side is too weak in volume as compared to your pressure side. ie: the suction pump vs pressure pump. My tank is the highest part of my system and my turbo's are the lowest. I have never had a drip of oil in my compressor/turbine as long as the pumps were running. I did have a 2 pound pressure valve get stuck before so i added redundancy with another 2 pound check valve in the main feed pressure line (before it splits to feed both turbo's). p.s... my pressure and suction pumps are approx six feet away from my turbo's.



