Cog dyno/boost results.........
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I'm guessing another .5 inch, but I was uncomfortable going any higher. It looks like it might make the bracket weak in that area.
Might be a step in the right direction, but how do I take this belt off now so I can add 2 more washers to the stand offs?
I might take it for a spin tomorrow, in the daylight just in case something decides to break off, like the s/c
I am serious this thing is that tight. Big NO NO for a cog belt.
Bos do you have your crankshaft keyed? I do, but.....
Might be a step in the right direction, but how do I take this belt off now so I can add 2 more washers to the stand offs?
I might take it for a spin tomorrow, in the daylight just in case something decides to break off, like the s/c
I am serious this thing is that tight. Big NO NO for a cog belt.Bos do you have your crankshaft keyed? I do, but.....
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From: Albuquerque, NM
BUT....... Last time I had the bolt out to put the crank cog on(when I got the new set of cogs). The dowel pin that is used for the pin kit, slipped down towards the crank bolt. I didn't notice that when I put it all back together. Well when I climbed under her today, I noticed that the s/c cog dowels weren't resting on the pads on the crank pulley. So I figured the crank cog moved a little. WRONG. When I took the crank cog off, I noticed my keyway that was cut into the LS1 crank pulley, was just past where the dowel pin is located on the crank snout. The pin was hanging down into the crank bolt hole
The crank pulley moved, from the lack of a pin not holding it in place.
I would have just took off the crank pulley and replaced the pin with the extra one that came with the pin kit, but I sent the extra pin and the pin kit to Canada. I let Draco from the board borrow it.
So I am going to have to find another pin. Also another reason why I have to find out how to get the belt off lol.
I think I am going to use the other crank pinning kit, the one that goes from the face of the crank instead of the side.
I didn't want to put this in the post above, it was already to long. Just make sure that if your crank is pinned that the pin stays put.
J
The crank pulley moved, from the lack of a pin not holding it in place.I would have just took off the crank pulley and replaced the pin with the extra one that came with the pin kit, but I sent the extra pin and the pin kit to Canada. I let Draco from the board borrow it.
So I am going to have to find another pin. Also another reason why I have to find out how to get the belt off lol.
I think I am going to use the other crank pinning kit, the one that goes from the face of the crank instead of the side.
I didn't want to put this in the post above, it was already to long. Just make sure that if your crank is pinned that the pin stays put.
J
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Nope it is waaay to big, the tensioner does the opposite of what it does now, it bottoms out all the way and the 1040 just sags like old boobies. I sent the 1040 belt back to lee last week. Did me no good sitting with my collection of 6rib gatorbacks that I have up on the tool rack. We definately need a belt that is sized inbetween the 1040 and the 960. I talked to Gates and asked them if they can make a custom sized belt.....they can if I want to buy 1000 of them
Bos, no dice on the tensioner, when unbolted all it did was hit the idler that is now a hair away from it, I'm going to cut it off. The damn thing won't budge, I tried to "slide" it off the s/c cog and the crank cog with no luck
Man I am tired of this.
J
Bos, no dice on the tensioner, when unbolted all it did was hit the idler that is now a hair away from it, I'm going to cut it off. The damn thing won't budge, I tried to "slide" it off the s/c cog and the crank cog with no luck
Man I am tired of this.
J
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Don't worry Jeremy, we will get it figured out sooner or later, I think by taking a little more room out in the idler slot that will give you slightly more room to play with.....
You were talking about possibly putting a lot of stress on that "weak" part of the bracket, but once the tensioner is bolted down, the stress will be taken off.....
We will get something worked out, I'm hoping to get into sikoras within the next few weeks, I'm done tinkering with it for now, going to put more miles on the trans and motor and wait.........
You were talking about possibly putting a lot of stress on that "weak" part of the bracket, but once the tensioner is bolted down, the stress will be taken off.....
We will get something worked out, I'm hoping to get into sikoras within the next few weeks, I'm done tinkering with it for now, going to put more miles on the trans and motor and wait.........
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I need to get more miles on this new motor. I only have 200 miles on it and its been in the car since november
I really feel that taking out more material from the center of the bracket will make it weaker. Especially since I have no support from the s/c to the block, like the bracket you have. With the slot opened up more, and the bracket flexing from the s/c side toward the engine, the stress should crack/break the bracket. I don't know if that makes sense but I feel that the bracket draws some of its strength from the center.
I have the slot opened to just under the bottom of the standoff holes, so its pretty high.
Other than that I just don't see it working with the tensioner on top. I'd hate to say it. Maybe lee will do the right thing and make all of us smaller cogs or somehow convince gates to make us a belt or find one that is a lil longer to work with what we have.
At least one set is working good enough to put miles on it. My car use to be a daily driver before all this crap.
Who wants my cogs? 500 and they are yours.
J
I really feel that taking out more material from the center of the bracket will make it weaker. Especially since I have no support from the s/c to the block, like the bracket you have. With the slot opened up more, and the bracket flexing from the s/c side toward the engine, the stress should crack/break the bracket. I don't know if that makes sense but I feel that the bracket draws some of its strength from the center.
I have the slot opened to just under the bottom of the standoff holes, so its pretty high.
Other than that I just don't see it working with the tensioner on top. I'd hate to say it. Maybe lee will do the right thing and make all of us smaller cogs or somehow convince gates to make us a belt or find one that is a lil longer to work with what we have.
At least one set is working good enough to put miles on it. My car use to be a daily driver before all this crap.
Who wants my cogs? 500 and they are yours.
J
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Senior Member
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Don't give up that easy......
Remember your setup was doing fine on the dyno, so get the new tranny in there, get the fuel worked out, throw it back on and see how it does.....
I'm thinking about having mine put on the dyno soon just to see how well the belt holds.....I am very suprised as to how the belt wears, pretty good.....
Me driving the car and bringing up the rpms slowly to 4000 will start to make the belt jump teeth, I don't know why it does it, but on some part throttle hits it grabs fine........
Remember your setup was doing fine on the dyno, so get the new tranny in there, get the fuel worked out, throw it back on and see how it does.....
I'm thinking about having mine put on the dyno soon just to see how well the belt holds.....I am very suprised as to how the belt wears, pretty good.....
Me driving the car and bringing up the rpms slowly to 4000 will start to make the belt jump teeth, I don't know why it does it, but on some part throttle hits it grabs fine........
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Tranny feels fine, it was spinning the tires on the dyno due to the wet conditions we drove over there in. It probably kicked down to 2nd gear on those passes.
I think I will be rerouting the belt back on top of the tensioner for the time being. After I get a new one, cuz this one has to be cut.
I think the reason yours is doing this is because of the belt wrap issue we have running it on top of the tensioner. I haven't slow rolled it, just a nice quick acceleration into boost and it holds? I should try that to see if it skips.
I am kinda put out by all this, the car has basically sat from the beginning of Dec until now. All because of these stinkin cogs. I just want to be done with it...or at least working on something else besides the s/c.
J
I think I will be rerouting the belt back on top of the tensioner for the time being. After I get a new one, cuz this one has to be cut.
I think the reason yours is doing this is because of the belt wrap issue we have running it on top of the tensioner. I haven't slow rolled it, just a nice quick acceleration into boost and it holds? I should try that to see if it skips.
I am kinda put out by all this, the car has basically sat from the beginning of Dec until now. All because of these stinkin cogs. I just want to be done with it...or at least working on something else besides the s/c.
J
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From: Mefis
What about welding up the tensioner slot where the tensioner won't be when the cog belt is under the tensioner? That would give more strengh back to the bracket and you may be able to open the tensioner slot more upwards.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Not a bad idea, I'm thinking about throwing the car on the dyno for now and get a base tuned started with the 60# injectors......I'm pretty sure the belt will hold for now, I would like to see what the PSI would be at redline, and after I see what it does I will then bring it to sikora for some customizing to get more belt wrap.........
If I need to retune after that, so be it....
If I need to retune after that, so be it....
Originally Posted by BIGBOS
Not a bad idea, I'm thinking about throwing the car on the dyno for now and get a base tuned started with the 60# injectors......I'm pretty sure the belt will hold for now, I would like to see what the PSI would be at redline, and after I see what it does I will then bring it to sikora for some customizing to get more belt wrap.........
If I need to retune after that, so be it....
If I need to retune after that, so be it....
Kyle
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Yea, this week if possible, I was trying to get scheduled in to get my fuel gauge fixed, but while I'm in there, I might as well have them start tuning it on the dyno.....
Get some pulls with it and see how the belt holds up......
My 60's came in a while back....
I want to see how the car does for now, and when sikora is ready, I will take it to him so we can find a way to get some more belt wrap around that blower pulley, then if there is a need to retune do to more boost or something, then so be it...........
I'll find out tomorrow when and if I'm going to be able to get in soon
Get some pulls with it and see how the belt holds up......
My 60's came in a while back....
I want to see how the car does for now, and when sikora is ready, I will take it to him so we can find a way to get some more belt wrap around that blower pulley, then if there is a need to retune do to more boost or something, then so be it...........
I'll find out tomorrow when and if I'm going to be able to get in soon
Sounds good man....... Got my shortblock today at the SBSO so that will be going in this week and ill be ordering my 60's this week also..... just head studs and the cog pulleys is all thats left for me...... I really want to see how much boost you see since our combo's will be really close to being the same.
Kyle
Kyle
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Bos, how high do you plan on spinning that engine? I think I have yours figured out. Go to a smaller s/c cog(28tooth) and you will be spinning it harder but you won't have to spin your engine high(like 6100-6200) to see excellent boost from the smaller cog. The benefit of a smaller cog besides what I listed above is you will be able to get the belt under the tensioner and have slack in the belt. Run it by Sikora and tell me what he thinks. You will be able to make some sick power even with that small cam. Boost sooner, make your power earlier in the powerband is what you want.
I wish I could follow this route too, but my cam needs to be spun 6500+.
Dirty, Lee hasn't replied to any of my emails, I think he is done with me lol
J
I wish I could follow this route too, but my cam needs to be spun 6500+.
Dirty, Lee hasn't replied to any of my emails, I think he is done with me lol
J
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Lee hasn't responded to me either with my e-mails.....
Jeremy, I plan on doing a cam swap in the near future after I see what this setup can do.......
The motor now will be spun to 6400-6500, but we will find out where peak power will be on the dyno.......
I will run that idea by sikora when I talk to him.......
Jeremy, I plan on doing a cam swap in the near future after I see what this setup can do.......
The motor now will be spun to 6400-6500, but we will find out where peak power will be on the dyno.......
I will run that idea by sikora when I talk to him.......
question to all you cog people
does your crank cog sit flush with the outside of the crank pulley? ( is there a gap between them?)
does your crank cog sit flush with the outside of the crank pulley? ( is there a gap between them?)
Last edited by 1dirtyZ; Mar 15, 2004 at 08:16 PM.