Full Weight 8 on a stock short block
I'm just saying a good rod and piston in the motor will naturally be far more reliable than the stock bottom end.
I still think it's badass that this motor did what it did...But at this power level I'd spring for the rods and pistons and have a bottom end that will hold together at this power level for season after season. Peace of mind.
50 to 100 lbs removed from the car, only the easy stuff.
And the ignition problem hopefully fixed.
At this track we should be able to leave with more boost, and better that 1.27 sixty foot.
We also will be taking my wagon, twin 61s with a stock aluminum 5.3.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The build is here, but it has not been updated in a while.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rbo-combo.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lots-pics.html
here is a couple more.


Last edited by atomic 6; Sep 28, 2011 at 04:40 PM. Reason: added pics
but it still has the 6010 controlling the timing, for now.
I like it, and I will soon switch to running the coils, and then run seq. on the primary injectors.
It still takes time to get the squirt to do what you want(sometimes all that flexablity is a draw back)
First pass at a lower boost, the engine(specifically the rods) broke.



A week later, it was running again, this time with a 4.8, because it was cheap. And we figure compressing a rod,this time, on a 4.8 is more safe than a 6.0
Mostly been working on the 3rd gen, lately.


Once the voltage to the coils was brought up to 16 volts, no more problems with firing the rich e85 mix.

The map table is very useful. We bring in some timing at cruise, for good mileage, and we flatline the timing as soon as it sees boost. Around 15 to 18 degrees from 110 to 250 KPa. Depends on the car and where the timing mark ends up on the plug.
We stay on the safe side of things with tuning timing.




