1990 Mazda RX-7 Street Car (turbo LSx, Powerglide, 8.8")
10-05-2011, 03:07 PM
#21
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I'd love to do a 240z after I'm done with this car (maybe make one as a dedicated drag car). The only problems with the Z's is that clean shells are really expensive. 
10-07-2011, 08:15 AM
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Thanks man! Ask any questions you might have.
Installed the AutoPower 4 point roll bar last night:
I still need to put the interior back in (pretty easy on these cars) but I'm going to wire my cut-off switch first (route to battery and to the alternator).
Installed the AutoPower 4 point roll bar last night:
I still need to put the interior back in (pretty easy on these cars) but I'm going to wire my cut-off switch first (route to battery and to the alternator).
10-15-2011, 06:43 PM
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Thanks guys!
Today's project was mounting my cut off switch. I had heard a lot of people saying they never got hassled about it (my battery is relocated in a sealed bin in one of my storage compartments) but my most local track is Brainerd International Raceway, and they're pretty set on going by the NHRA rulebook, from what I have heard. The switch itself is a cheap NAPA dual pole unit. I used a rubber grommet to finish it off and used some small hinges I found at Menards - no doubt they will do the job.
I took special care to make sure the hinges were completely hidden from sight as the switch will also serve purpose as a theft deterrent:
What lies beneath:
And this is how I will run it when I'm at the track (I'm having a sticker made indicating which direction it goes):
Today's project was mounting my cut off switch. I had heard a lot of people saying they never got hassled about it (my battery is relocated in a sealed bin in one of my storage compartments) but my most local track is Brainerd International Raceway, and they're pretty set on going by the NHRA rulebook, from what I have heard. The switch itself is a cheap NAPA dual pole unit. I used a rubber grommet to finish it off and used some small hinges I found at Menards - no doubt they will do the job.
I took special care to make sure the hinges were completely hidden from sight as the switch will also serve purpose as a theft deterrent:
What lies beneath:
And this is how I will run it when I'm at the track (I'm having a sticker made indicating which direction it goes):
10-22-2011, 11:21 PM
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Alright, so a pretty big change in my build. I've decided to not go with the IRS route and decided to go with a solid axle. Granny's Speed Shop makes a bolt in kit that runs $3,300 new with all of the upgrades one would want. Even then, the geometry isn't quite right and it has some cheapish parts (plastic heim joints, for example). I happened to stumble upon what you see below the other day and sent the deposit for the whole car. I'm paying $3,000 for the entire car which includes everything you see below. It's a steal in my opinion. The car has a Hinson Supercars V8 mounting kit, widebody fenders, freshly rebuilt front brakes, and the body only has 79k miles on it.
The rear end itself was originally a Granny's kit but has been prepped by Tydo Race Cars and itself cost about $4,500 to have built. It's a narrowed 8.8 torque arm setup with a Strange spool and 32 spline Strange axles and Aerospace Components rear drag disc brakes with new pads. It has 3.55 gears installed which I'm going to leave in. Should be good with my PowerGlide.
The fuel cell is a 9 gallon unit and I'm still not sure if I'm going to put it in my car or now.
It's not the prettiest thing to look at, but you have to look past that. It's in Cincinnati and I'll be going down to get it the first week of November.
The rear end itself was originally a Granny's kit but has been prepped by Tydo Race Cars and itself cost about $4,500 to have built. It's a narrowed 8.8 torque arm setup with a Strange spool and 32 spline Strange axles and Aerospace Components rear drag disc brakes with new pads. It has 3.55 gears installed which I'm going to leave in. Should be good with my PowerGlide.
The fuel cell is a 9 gallon unit and I'm still not sure if I'm going to put it in my car or now.
It's not the prettiest thing to look at, but you have to look past that. It's in Cincinnati and I'll be going down to get it the first week of November.
10-22-2011, 11:49 PM
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Thanks guys!
Today's project was mounting my cut off switch. I had heard a lot of people saying they never got hassled about it (my battery is relocated in a sealed bin in one of my storage compartments) but my most local track is Brainerd International Raceway, and they're pretty set on going by the NHRA rulebook, from what I have heard. The switch itself is a cheap NAPA dual pole unit. I used a rubber grommet to finish it off and used some small hinges I found at Menards - no doubt they will do the job.
I took special care to make sure the hinges were completely hidden from sight as the switch will also serve purpose as a theft deterrent:
Today's project was mounting my cut off switch. I had heard a lot of people saying they never got hassled about it (my battery is relocated in a sealed bin in one of my storage compartments) but my most local track is Brainerd International Raceway, and they're pretty set on going by the NHRA rulebook, from what I have heard. The switch itself is a cheap NAPA dual pole unit. I used a rubber grommet to finish it off and used some small hinges I found at Menards - no doubt they will do the job.
I took special care to make sure the hinges were completely hidden from sight as the switch will also serve purpose as a theft deterrent:
I am putting an LQ4 in your RX-7's rival... An 80's 300zx. I am curious to see what you are going to do with your alternator with the truck manifolds. I too am running truck mani's and I think I am going to have to put the alt up top on the driver side head.
10-23-2011, 07:45 PM
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Yes:
I've also decided to get an NHRA legal cut off switch. Might as well do it right the first time then chance it at the track!
Tonight I got my front bumper trimmed for my FMIC. Here's a picture with the bumper just sitting on the car and the front lip screwed into a couple of places. Don't mind any gaps in the body, I'm just demonstrating what it should look like:
I've also decided to get an NHRA legal cut off switch. Might as well do it right the first time then chance it at the track!
Tonight I got my front bumper trimmed for my FMIC. Here's a picture with the bumper just sitting on the car and the front lip screwed into a couple of places. Don't mind any gaps in the body, I'm just demonstrating what it should look like:
10-23-2011, 09:12 PM
#39
ic, cut both of the front cross bars off off near the hood latch and also hood latch itself and moved the radiator and fans toward the bumper.
the lower round bar that is about 2" diameter is a pretty beefy support, is there any concern with that cut out?
the lower round bar that is about 2" diameter is a pretty beefy support, is there any concern with that cut out?
