Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I agree, very cool build! Bob

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

No updates worth noting as of now. I'm still prepping the bay for paint and getting the motor ready for the "build". I took some time off for the holidays and will be getting back at it after the first of the year. Summer really isn't all that far away!

I sold the Explorer diff stuff back to the company I got it from, Ronin Speedworks. They should have the kit ready for mass sale soon, I believe.

I haven't decided what to do with the anti-roll bar just yet. I don't really have "room" for it, but if that advantages are there, then I'm willing to try it out.

I hope to buy the transmission and converter in a few weeks. Then I will just need to paint the bay, install the fuel system, and put everything together. Cake

jfisher

iTrader: (1)

Don't think I saw it, but why the switch back to the L33? What are your plans for the motor as far as prepping for boost?

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

I don't think I explained it, so good question lol

I moved back because the LQ4 had scoring and I didn't want to put rings in it and hone it (not worth it since stock shortblocks are so cheap) so I sold it to another enthusiast and picked the L33 long block up for $550. The L33 as you may know has the 799 heads (basically 243s), 9.5:1 CR (perfect since I'm using E85), and apparently stronger rods, in addition to being lighter.

Plans are:

LS6 cam
Patriot gold dual valve springs
Comp Cams 7.4" chromoly pushrods
GM LS9 MLS head gaskets
ARP head bolts
ARP rod bolts
Fbody oil pan, windage tray, pickup tube

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

What did you decide on a converter?

The L33 is 9.9 to 1 compression.

unclebens

iTrader: (2)

So your going to be at 600whp+ and your not going to forge the motor? I know people have been setting records with stock shortblocks but for those of us that aren't chasing stock shortblock records isn't it only a matter of time before the ringlands or rods/rod bolts fail?

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

My mistake, I knew that. I'm going to give PTC a call and let them tell me what I need. They know way more about this than I'll ever know lol

Not necessarily. 600RWHP is pretty proven on the stock shortblock, and I have the advantage of using E85 to prevent detonation and a light car which will help with motor stress. Yes, it's possible to have ringland failure but that's something that I'm willing to face. The question I think every turbo LSx guy needs to ask themselves is if the cost of a forged rotating assembly and all that comes with it is worth it to you. I'm not saying it's NEVER worth it, but each person's case is different.

I'm a "do it once, do it right" type of guy. If I was going forged, I'd do a forged crank as well, so my cost would be $5,000 with parts and machine work. For that money, I can replace my stock shortblock 200 times before the price eclipses forged. Yes, reliability is a concern because we build these cars to drive them, but realistically I'll put 2k miles on the car a year. If I break it, it's as easy as going to the junkyard, getting a shortblock and swapping all of my crap over. I can do that all in an afternoon. Yes, it could take out the turbo, but again, I have accepted that as a possibility.

Plus, there's something badass about being able to kick some *** against some high dollar cars with my junkyard motor

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Right on!!

unclebens

iTrader: (2)

is the aluminum l33 with thick sleeves suppose to be stronger than the 5.3 iron blocks and 6.0 iron blocks?

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

The cylinder walls are THICK on the L33, but I'd guess the iron blocks are still stronger. I don't know that block strength has ever been a significant concern though, I'm pretty sure they're good far beyond the point most of us ever take our cars.

unclebens

iTrader: (2)

I wonder if the thick sleeves help with the ring seal issue that aluminum blocks have after 800+ whp due to flex . or if the flex is going to happen with any aluminum block regardless of the thick sleeves

I just found out today that the stock iron block 6.0 mustang blew up https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...t-block-2.html

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

That's possible. But like I said, for my purposes specifically, that's not really into the equation much. And if it does blow up, like I said... there's 6 stock 5.3 shortblocks in junkyards in my surrounding area

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

Alright, well after a 2 week break I'm back at it. I started getting burnt out from working on it everynight, but the flame has been reignited.

I cut the main support beam out and am planning where to move it. I think here is where I want it to be:

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It's the best of both worlds but will require a surge tank - no biggie.

Here's how it looks with the FMIC in front:

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Herra frush with a spacer:

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I'm riding like a 4x4. For some reason I can't get these Strange coilovers any lower...

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Anyway, a whole slew of parts will be arriving this week - I'm excited. I hope to have the motor in the car within 2 weeks (just to mock up), get her painted and then I'll be ready for final assembly!

I still have no idea where I'm going to put the tranny cooler...

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well progress has been a bit slow as I have been in school/working 40 hours a week/planning a vacation in March.

With that said, I bought a few parts...

All brand new - alternator, starter, water pump, tensioner, 186* thermostat, oil pan, windage tray, pick up tube, LS9 MLS head gaskets, head bolts, exhaust studs, exhaust gaskets, dipstick tube and other miscellaneous gaskets.

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I dropped my heads off at the machine shop last weekend. They pressure tested the valves, cleaned them and resurfaced them. They were in great shape but I just wanted to be sure.

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I also got my -10 return bung welded in. My friend Nate did it for me in exchange for some donuts and Monster. Seemed like a good deal to me!

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It's about as far up as I could safely get but should be well above the oil level in the pan at most times.

The motor is going to get mostly put together this weekend and dropped in for a test fit. Then, it's back out for paint and to install the cam/pushrods/springs and then final assembly!

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

I got the heads and oil pan put on:

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Still needs the cam, springs, pushrods, and front accessories. Also waiting on my Lingenfelter oil cooler adapter (I ordered the wrong one before). I also need my alternator relocation bracket.

Then I got the motor put into the bay to get everything test fitted before I spend DAYS getting the bay prepped to be painted.

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I think I'm going to be happy with the radiator location. I'm going to get the rest of the stuff mocked up and also get my intercooler piping welded at this stage.

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

The rest of my fuel stuff showed up. Now I just need to buy injectors (already have another Walbro in the car)!

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I also got my Lingenfelter oil cooler adapter:

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

I went down to Madison (5.5 hours one way) this weekend with a buddy and got my transmission:



He gave me all of the paperwork and it looks like it has all ATI transmission parts (gear set, hardened input shaft, trans brake, etc.)

Fitted to the driveshaft that I got in my black parts car (BLACKLIST ran it with a PG and my rear end):



And the converter I got from the same guy as well:



I can't say for sure that I'll end up using the converter, but I am going to try it. It's a Midwest 3200 stall that he had custom built for his S10. It turns out that our setups were almost exactly the same, including weight, so I figured for $250 it was worth trying anyway.

I also got a trans cooler with -6AN lines that's not pictured. I think I know how I'm going to run that, but we'll see.


What do you PG guys prefer for a shifter? That's the next order of business to get.

I ordered 80LB injectors last week as well.

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

I got my Russell AN adapter put on my stock fuel rails (this one screws on, no push-lock bullshit):





I also tackled one of the bigger unknowns to the build and that is cramming 2 Walbro 255 pumps into the tank. I will start this off by saying that if I could do it again, I would just sump the stock tank and not have to deal with this BS.

I tapped the top of the unit to fit my -6 bulkhead fitting (I also gave it a coat of Zero Rust as the top was a little gross looking):

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Here's the pump configuration that I started off wanting to use:

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This looked great, had good clearance except when I went to put it onto the tank I realized that it's about 1/4" wider than the in tank baffle. No go - back to the drawing board.

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I remember seeing that someone else had "stacked" his pumps which is actually what I ended up doing. The bend is braided stainless and is actually still perfectly circular even with the tight bend. I was surprised of this, honestly. I took the duct tape off after BTW. This setup fits in the tank great but is a bit of a bitch to get put in.

The T is just a brass 3/8" fitting. I was concerned with the usage of a T rather than a Y but have been assured by more than 1 person that this is sufficient and shouldn't case any problems.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Sitting at the drawing board here.....

.......

Just sump the tank. Haha

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

I wish I would have after this, but I think the setup will work well now.

I *finally* got my FPR/filter mounted and permanently in place. All fittings are tightened down and ready to rock.


The placement is perfect and out of the way of anything moving in the rear. Even if I were to bottom the suspension out nothing would be compromised. It's also in an easily accessible spot for base pressure adjustment and a clear view of the gauge.

It's very solidly mounted as well. The piece around the filter is bolted through the rear and the lines are all snug but not too tight.

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