best stock block platform?
09-26-2011, 09:33 PM
#1
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best stock block platform? got a buddy interested in doing a stock block turbo build in a fox body notchback. I see the stock block record is held by a 5.3 car. Is the 5.3 better than an lq4 based build. also any years stronger or better than others?
09-27-2011, 01:10 PM
#4
We went a 5.40 @ 136 in the 1/8th 5 years ago with a stock Ls2 block, 243 casting heads and arp headbolts. Had a callies crank and the older compstar rods with JE pistons in a stock bore.
30 psi and a 98mm lifted the heads to the moon finally when the boost controller freaked and we hit 33psi. BUT motor seemed stable as far as block rigidity, had alittle evidence of cap-walk and some metal transfer.
But! looking at STOCK pistons and rods I have laying around I would place bets on the 5.3 or 4.8 A more compact piston, and a 1.300 compression height is alot of meat.
Similarly... there is less rod angle with a 4.8 due to its shorter stroke. The rod isnt pushed as much from Linear (strongest position) as the shorter stroke is rotating around. I think some creative power adder use... a 4.8 might survive just a touch longer. LOL, but thats my opinion
30 psi and a 98mm lifted the heads to the moon finally when the boost controller freaked and we hit 33psi. BUT motor seemed stable as far as block rigidity, had alittle evidence of cap-walk and some metal transfer.
But! looking at STOCK pistons and rods I have laying around I would place bets on the 5.3 or 4.8 A more compact piston, and a 1.300 compression height is alot of meat.
Similarly... there is less rod angle with a 4.8 due to its shorter stroke. The rod isnt pushed as much from Linear (strongest position) as the shorter stroke is rotating around. I think some creative power adder use... a 4.8 might survive just a touch longer. LOL, but thats my opinion
09-27-2011, 03:27 PM
#6
having good luck with 03-05's Still an earlier design, no vvt, standard ls1 crank/cam. Gets you the better operating system with tuning with a stock computer based platform with Hptuners ect.
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09-29-2011, 02:30 PM
#9
L33 aluminum 5.3 is by far the best LS engine availible, has the light, thick LS6 style block, beefier rods than earlier versions, and comes with 243 heads and some compression. Nothing beats that combination with the low price of around $7-900 complete.
09-29-2011, 08:48 PM
#11
boring it out would completely defeat the purpose. The entire benefit to the 4.8/5.3 is the small bore. The L33 uses a standard LS6 block that was only bored to 3.78 vs the LS6 5.7L 3.898. Thats where it gets all its strength from as well as the small bore not as detonation prone while being easier to keep the heads down
09-30-2011, 09:51 AM
#13
So the L33 uses an LS6 block that just wasn't bored out to LS6 size?
I understand about keeping the bore small for cyl wall strength but I was just wondering if you scuffed a cyl if you could bore it out .020 or .030 or whatever to end up with a perfect bore again.
I have been looking on the web, tons of those L33s in junkyards out there.
Many at a very reasonable price for an all aluminum fuel injected engine that in stock form out performs any factory gen I SBC ever made.
Jarhead
I understand about keeping the bore small for cyl wall strength but I was just wondering if you scuffed a cyl if you could bore it out .020 or .030 or whatever to end up with a perfect bore again.
I have been looking on the web, tons of those L33s in junkyards out there.
Many at a very reasonable price for an all aluminum fuel injected engine that in stock form out performs any factory gen I SBC ever made.
Jarhead
09-30-2011, 02:03 PM
#16
This is a L33
Look at the thickness of the steel liner....yeah can't bore that one bit??
The liner shares the same OD as the LS6....
And aluminum is right with the iron for overall block strength huh?
You need to quit posting
Look at the thickness of the steel liner....yeah can't bore that one bit??
The liner shares the same OD as the LS6....
And aluminum is right with the iron for overall block strength huh?
You need to quit posting
09-30-2011, 02:26 PM
#17
So if I wanted to duplicate an LS6 I could bore out an L33 block and using stock LS1 or 6 pistons I'd have a brandnew all aluminum 346.
I've seen stock LS1 pistons sitting around for next to nothing, paying for a bore and a hone and rings and gaining 20+ cubic inch increase seems like a deal to me.
I'm talking here about building a street NA motor, not an all out turbo/NO2 drag engine.
Personally I hope a 4.8 ends up taking the entire Stock Shortblock Shootout.
Hot Rod showed that you can get 1200 HP out of one.
Jarhead
Thanks rotary1307 for confirming what I thought about the thickness of those liners.
I've seen stock LS1 pistons sitting around for next to nothing, paying for a bore and a hone and rings and gaining 20+ cubic inch increase seems like a deal to me.
I'm talking here about building a street NA motor, not an all out turbo/NO2 drag engine.
Personally I hope a 4.8 ends up taking the entire Stock Shortblock Shootout.
Hot Rod showed that you can get 1200 HP out of one.
Jarhead
Thanks rotary1307 for confirming what I thought about the thickness of those liners.
10-08-2011, 12:13 AM
#19
You have to do some math. CC the heads, calculate gasket thickness, deck height, and piston relief CC (if any) and deduct the CC per material removed. Usually going past .030 on a factory head is a bad idea, the deck gets thinner (they aren't thick like aftermarket) and your intake fit-up and valvetrain geometry get all wonky. It's better to start off with a head that's closest to your target static compression.
