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Need a decision...What would you do?

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Old 10-16-2011, 10:15 PM
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Default Need a decision...What would you do?

I am getting conflicting information and am not sure what to do. I am doing this tomorrow and need to make a decision.

I can pick up a running 4.8 or 5.3 with 60,000 miles (roughly) on either one. It is complete with pcm, wiring harness, alternator, starter. I can keep it and modify the harness, and use either one of these engines with a cam change, arp rod bolts, new valve springs. I don't think the heads are the 317's. However, I can buy them for $200 around here. The 4.8 is $500, the 5.3 is $700. Both complete.

OR

I can buy the 4.8 and trade it for a 6.0 that came out of a 1999 truck. The 6.0 does not run and needs to be rebuilt but has the good heads. I am being told by some that 1999 was not a good year for the 6.0. Plus, I have never seen the 6.0 run. I saw the 4.8 and 5.3 run.

I already have the turbos on the way. It is twin pt62's. This will be a daily driver and raced heavily. Both 1/8th and 1/4. I just want to break 6 seconds in the 1/8th but am trying to do this with just the sell of my parts from my big block chevy I blew up. Most think I can't but I think I will be very close.

Any advice would be great. I am thinking the 4.8 with 317 heads would be the best bet or the 5.3 if it has 317 heads. Starting to think the 6.0 should be out of the question.
Old 10-16-2011, 11:22 PM
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Go 6.0. Your going to build it anyway so why not have a bigger engine?
Old 10-17-2011, 12:01 AM
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4.8.... they will hold more power, you say your gonna drive it daily, a 4.8 will give you the best MPG.
Old 10-17-2011, 12:05 AM
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99 was not a good year for the 6.0 because they came with iron heads and longer crank. This means that only auto tranny's (powerglide or th350/400)will work on them. The newer 6.0's came with shorter cranks along with a removable spacer on the back, and the 317 heads. This way you can take the spacer off and run your T56. Otherwise, If you want to run a T56, you will have to replace the crank with either a newer crank, or a aftermarket crank. And at that point... it's pretty much build time right?

From what I understand, the 5.3 will take more power in stock form than the 6.0 will.

Are you sure the 6.0 is a 1999? I am wondering if it is, since it has "the good heads". Look at the crank where the flywheel/flex plate bolts to. If it has a removable spacer, then it is newer than 99. Look closely cause its pretty hard to tell from what I have read. I actually have a 99 6.0 LQ4, and it does NOT have a removable spacer and it DID come with iron heads.

Last edited by SATAN; 10-17-2011 at 12:11 AM.
Old 10-17-2011, 01:19 AM
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I'd pick up the 4.8 or 5.3 and go with it, leave the stock heads on it.
Old 10-17-2011, 02:08 AM
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Go 5.3 or 4.8. The removable crank spacer is not hard to see. There is a groove when you look at the stub. The 99-00 is smooth. Basically the grove is were the spacer meets the crank. X2 on 99-00 having cast iron heads. The 6.0 will make great torque but why buy a motor you have to dump a bunch of money in? I say do the 4.8 but leave the stock heads for now. From what I hear they can be a dog at low rpm due to the lack of compression.
Old 10-17-2011, 06:51 AM
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What is the HP goal? If left stock cubes dont really matter. I'd go with whatever one is in better condition.
Old 10-17-2011, 07:52 AM
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I vote 5.3 with the stock heads, a cam and springs.
Old 10-17-2011, 09:58 AM
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I vote 4.8. Or 5.3, but I'm partial to 4.8s
<3 that **** 7200rpm shifts under 15+psig
Old 10-17-2011, 11:09 AM
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Okay. Here is a video of the new powerplant. I wanted a running engine and so we are NOT trading for the 6.0. It was going to add up to too much extra money. This engine has around 70k in miles and started right up, had good oil pressure. It is currently in a totaled Yukon XL. It doesn't have the 317 or 243 heads. It has the 862 heads. It will be very close to hitting my goal with these but the engine runs and that is a huge plus.

So now I will go ahead and attempt to modify the harness. We will change out the cam and put in some new valve springs. That is it!

They are going to pull it in the morning. I paid for it today. $683 total. That is complete with starter and alternator also.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXRnMvjPCp8
Old 10-17-2011, 11:22 AM
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Good deal IMO and get to see it function before purchase
Old 10-17-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
Good deal IMO and get to see it function before purchase
That was what I was thinking. I was worried about the 6.0 because I never got to see it run. This one sounds brand new. The interior was immaculate which tells me it was well taken care of. They even had their oil change book in the glove compartment. It is out of a 2003.

I did forget to mention that I will probably put some good arp 2000 rod bolts in it. I was going to open up the ring gap but several guys have said you don't need to do that if running E85. What do you think about that? Does that have some merrit?
Old 10-17-2011, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
Good deal IMO and get to see it function before purchase
I totally agree!




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