Chevy406

iTrader: (12)

I bought a 3/8" NPT tap to clean up the threads on my Edlebrock fuel rails so that the fittings would go in a little further.

Glad to see that you aren't going to stick with the turbos angled down. That would have killed the bearings and pushed a lot of oil into the compressor side.

You are moving quickly. I need to quit messing around with other projects and get to work on my plumbing.

Wicked69

Cool. Thanks. That was what I was wondering.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

had to do the same thing with those edelbroke rails. it is quite a common problem. just retap it so you can get more engagement

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Id use the truck manifolds and find someone to help position the turbos with the correct bends and wastegate placement.

Also those are C6 manifolds not C5.

Other that the turbo positioning, looks good!

Wicked69

Yeah, it looked like **** plain and simple. I ordered some 180 mandrel bends and a straight stick and my T4 flanges. We are going to get it right. I also was told today of a place that has tons of turbo piping. I couldn't believe all the **** they had. I got one 3" nice 90 degree pipe that is 14" on both ends. I think if I use a 4"-3" reducer, that 90 will turn down right before my radiator. I was then going to have two more cut and welded together to make a "T" pointing down so you can't see it. Then another 90 that would turn up into the turbos. I think this will be simple and look very clean. first I have to get the turbos mounted to the exhaust correctly and then we can see.

Wicked69

Here is a picture of the new bracket set up that my cousin Jeff did. It took a while but a good NAPA 63 3/4 belt fit perfect!

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

nice. but they didnt you just cut down the stock truck bracket like this

Wicked69

I needed the alternator on the other side, or the truck manifold wasn't going to work.

Wicked69

Got some of the little things done today.

I put an oil distribution block on instead of tapping. This was actually already done but I added another feed. The 90 will feed my oil pressure guage I already had, and the straight fitting I will run a hose up and under my intake. From there the line will connect to a "T" and from the T to each turbo.



This is where I decided to place the Oil Catch Can. It will be out of the way of my exhaust and should be able to run two short -8 hoses without any issues. It is also out of the way of my "Y" fitting that sits just below and to the right from my fuel line to the fuel rails.



Thanks to "Thunderstruck" I was able to get an almost perfect fitting lower hose using my stock replacement aluminum radiator. It was a Gates 20734. I had to trim about an inch off where it connects to the water pump. This made a nicer fit. I still need to figure out what hose to use for the upper. If someone wants to look at the pictures I posted earlier of my belt set up and give me a recommendation that would be much appreciated.



I plan on going back out in the garage tonight after the kids go to sleep and trying my first attempt at making a "Y" pipe comeing off my throttle body. We'll see how it goes.

Wicked69

I got a few more things done today. First I moved the oil catch can. It was in the way of the coil packs. Now it runs along the top of the valve cover and should be out of the way. If you guys don't mind. Really look at my engine and make sure everything makes sense. I took a plug out of the radiator just below the cap and put in a 1/4NPT barb and ran a 1/4 heater hose from there and connected to a line at the front of the engine behind the alternator. I believe this is a steam provision but want to make sure that I set that up correctly.

There are still some items I need everyone's help with. Part #'s would be great!
1. What upper radiator hose should I use that will work with my belt set up.
2. I bought a MAP sensor that was recommended but I don't think it will work with my 4 bolt throttle body. I believe that I need throttle positioning sensor and a MAP sensor for the two items missing on my throttle body. Again, correct me if I am wrong. I also need part #'s for these two items and if I should just go to O'reilly's to buy them, ebay, or a Junk Yard.
3. What spark plugs are recommended? Remember that I will be running E85 and no intercooler. I prefer an NGK if possible. They are very easy to read.

I think that is it. I should have my Cold Side done this weekend. We got it all cut up and merged into a "Y" pipe and tacked up. Now we just need to clean it up and smooth the merge better. Thanks for any help you guys can recommend.

ReApEr75

iTrader: (4)

Dream car right there. Looks so sick.

Wicked69

Thanks man. It has been a lot of work. Just got out of the garage and its 1:15 am. If you don't have time....you have to find it. I work a lot on my car after the kids go to bed. A lot of 10pm -midnight work.

Wicked69

I got quite a bit done this weekend with the help from my friend Jon. He works a lot of hours but has equipment at his work they allow us to use. I couldn't have gotten as much done without his help. Thanks Jon.

Here are the exhaust manifolds. We heated them up to remove the studs. Since I am going to flip them upside down and forward I don't like the look of the studs. I am still going to use the flanges though. I got them media blasted and painted with a high temp flat black paint. Says it is good to 2000 degrees so I hope it works. I plan to paint the cold side the same and wrap the exhaust.





We worked on our first merge Y pipe. We cut 2 mandrel bent 90's at the angle we needed to have them match up to the compressor. I will still have to weld about a 3" section on the ends so they reach the turbo's. After I borrow a dremel and smooth out the inside I will then weld on a 6" section to get the length to the throttle body. Once it is done I plan to paint it with the same black. The only thing I worry about is that when we grinded down the welds we grinded them smooth. I am worried we may have gotten the steel to thin. What is the procedure you guys use? Just clean them up a little but not worry about the actual welds showing a little?

Wicked69

Here is a video of my car right before I blew it up. With my suspension, trans, gears, wheels being the same but the addition of a 8 pt cage and the new powerplant. What is the chances that I keep the wheelies? Everyone at chevelles.com seem to think my wheelie days are over.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zx5HjrWjteM

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

wrench rat sells a merge for 85 bucks . you could use that and have aluminum cold side tubing which would save weight and run cooler.

http://wrenchrat.com/gallery/

Wicked69

I just wanted to try and use what I made if it will work. I am not worried about a couple lbs. If I would have known before I bought and merged this stuff I would have done it. That is how it always works out.

Lextech

iTrader: (18)

If your throttle body uses the stock TPS and IAC valve---I have that stuff and can bring it when we come down for Christmas. Let me know.

Jeff

silver_82

with your trans break and leaving on a bunch off boost will still make it wheelie. If your chassis will hook it and you can launch at a higher rpm than what you previously did then itll still be in the air.

work slowly on the launch but get more aggresive with it and see what itll handle. I dont know your current converter specifics but it may need a new one. wont know until u try it out.

You will get tired of the wheelies in short order. they look cool but hurt perf. wouldnt it be cooler to run a 1.2x 60ft with the tires down than to run a 1.3x 60? at least to me it is. I have pictures and vids of my huge wheelies to remind me and show off basically but i want the lowest ET possible so i tuned em out, by strapping the front end

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

you could probably sell that for a hotside merge. it looks well done

Wicked69

Yes. According to everyone it does take the stock tps and Iac for an LS1. That is cool. One less thing to worry about. Now if I could just find a darn injector driver used I would be set. I am looking.