Pics of my soon to be turbo'd LS1!
#142
Today I was able to get the drivers side wastegate vacuum lines routed up with my manual boost controller. I tried to hide the boost controller somewhat but still make it easy to adjust. I think it turned out pretty well. Remember, I plan to make an aluminum radiator cover that will extend over all the radiator hoses, wires, vacuum lines, etc... I plan to notch out a section for the intake pipe.
I need to grind the bottom left hand corner off my Master Cylinder so I don't have to notch my down pipe. Does anyone know if I can grind most of that corner off without breaking into fluid?
I need to grind the bottom left hand corner off my Master Cylinder so I don't have to notch my down pipe. Does anyone know if I can grind most of that corner off without breaking into fluid?
#143
I am going to show two pictures. The first is with all the hoses and stuff hooked up. Basically all I have left is the wiring harness. The second is if I made an aluminum radiator cover that would cover all that stuff up and have a cut out for the intake pipe. Which do you think would look better and cleaner. The hoses are somewhat organized so they really don't look all that bad.
Without a cover
With a cover
Without a cover
With a cover
#145
I think the cover looks to big but I am not sure with it completely uncovered. I might just bring it out just to the intake pipe so you just get a very small notch, then it may look okay and cover up the top of the radiator. Hmmm.
Why I have you on here. What do you think of meth injection with the E85? Worth it or not?
Why I have you on here. What do you think of meth injection with the E85? Worth it or not?
#147
I think the cover looks to big but I am not sure with it completely uncovered. I might just bring it out just to the intake pipe so you just get a very small notch, then it may look okay and cover up the top of the radiator. Hmmm.
Why I have you on here. What do you think of meth injection with the E85? Worth it or not?
Why I have you on here. What do you think of meth injection with the E85? Worth it or not?
i dont know if it is needed with e85, but it can only help.
i went from 230 degrees iat at only 8.5psi (would be abt 275ish at 15psi
to 123 degrees with nothing but tap water and some ice cubes at 15 psi. ambient temp that day was 100 degrees.
btw, you can put your own kit together for like 120
http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alc...arts-list.html
i would use two of the biggest nozzles you can find. the naca test i read they were injecting water up to 60% the volume of fuel, so if you are making 800hp and the engine is at .5 bsfc, you could get away with up 40gph water flow. so i would get 2 of the 9.4 gph nozzles and use those
Last edited by 71 chevy; 12-28-2011 at 12:10 AM.
#148
Okay, thanks gentlemen for the replies. What I plan to do is get it running and tuned and see what the IAT's are. Then ad the water injection prior to the race season starting.
I just realized you said 120 dollars. I may do it before I go to have it tuned but after I fire it up then. Thanks again.
I just realized you said 120 dollars. I may do it before I go to have it tuned but after I fire it up then. Thanks again.
#149
Uhmmm Wicked69 I would like to start off this post by saying YOU SUCK!!! I lined up with you this season and that was the longest 1/8th mile of my life...Nothing like getting half tracked on an 1/8th mile track. Yea I still have feelings about that...LOL!!! Now you puttin 2 windmills on it...REALLY??? Geez!!!! And for the ones that don't get the luxury of seeing this car in person the pics don't do it justice this is truly a sweet car...
#150
Uhmmm Wicked69 I would like to start off this post by saying YOU SUCK!!! I lined up with you this season and that was the longest 1/8th mile of my life...Nothing like getting half tracked on an 1/8th mile track. Yea I still have feelings about that...LOL!!! Now you puttin 2 windmills on it...REALLY??? Geez!!!! And for the ones that don't get the luxury of seeing this car in person the pics don't do it justice this is truly a sweet car...
#152
I thought I would have this thing started by now. There are so many little tedious things that have to be done and take a lot of time. Part of the reason is my wiring harness. I had a team member do one up for me and UPS lost it. Just my luck. It was really nice too. Anyways, instead of trying again we decided to go ahead and modify mine. I do have help but I am trying to do as much of it as I can with his guidance. This way I can learn as I go. I just about have it done. All we have left is the resistors. We are running resistors so I don't need to run a driver box to push my low impedence injectors. Hopefully we will fire it up this weekend. Here are some of the items I was able to get done.
This first picture is of my two A1000 fuel pumps. One was already mounted well so I chose NOT to remove it. I added the second one. Both of the fuel pumps go to a "Y" fitting and then a single -10 runs to another "Y" fitting just before the fuel rails. Again, its not pretty but it should work and no real restrictions. The second pump has a hobbs switch that is ran through the ground side and should only kick on when I am at 4lbs of boost.
This next picture is the plumbing on the drivers side. I tried to run all my vacuum lines as neatly as I could. I tried to keep it clean looking. I have both wastegates going to a manual boost controller and then a vacuum line going from the boost controller to the back of the intake for vacuum. I went ahead and ran everything with its own vacuum. I tried NOT to "T" anything. This way everything has its own source.
Here is the plumbing on the passenger side. I went ahead and plumbed the 2.5 bar Map sensor to the fire wall next to the oil catch can but above and hopefully far enough away from the down pipe that will go there. I also plumbed the boost guage in. I put it where my fuel pressure guage used to be, under the cowl hood outside the car. I ran it to the back of the elbow for its own vacuum source.
This picture shows how we drilled and tapped the elbow. I used 1/8th inch NPT fittings with 1/4" barbed hose ends. I went ahead and drilled and tapped two extra's for the future and plugged them. Hopefully you can see how clean I tried to keep everything. You should be able to see where I mounted the MAP sensor and the boost guage also.
Anyways, sorry I haven't posted in a while but trying to take my time. I am not good at that. The weather has been awesome. I can't believe we don't have snow yet. You watch. I will get it fired up and we'll get a foot of snow that night. lol
This first picture is of my two A1000 fuel pumps. One was already mounted well so I chose NOT to remove it. I added the second one. Both of the fuel pumps go to a "Y" fitting and then a single -10 runs to another "Y" fitting just before the fuel rails. Again, its not pretty but it should work and no real restrictions. The second pump has a hobbs switch that is ran through the ground side and should only kick on when I am at 4lbs of boost.
This next picture is the plumbing on the drivers side. I tried to run all my vacuum lines as neatly as I could. I tried to keep it clean looking. I have both wastegates going to a manual boost controller and then a vacuum line going from the boost controller to the back of the intake for vacuum. I went ahead and ran everything with its own vacuum. I tried NOT to "T" anything. This way everything has its own source.
Here is the plumbing on the passenger side. I went ahead and plumbed the 2.5 bar Map sensor to the fire wall next to the oil catch can but above and hopefully far enough away from the down pipe that will go there. I also plumbed the boost guage in. I put it where my fuel pressure guage used to be, under the cowl hood outside the car. I ran it to the back of the elbow for its own vacuum source.
This picture shows how we drilled and tapped the elbow. I used 1/8th inch NPT fittings with 1/4" barbed hose ends. I went ahead and drilled and tapped two extra's for the future and plugged them. Hopefully you can see how clean I tried to keep everything. You should be able to see where I mounted the MAP sensor and the boost guage also.
Anyways, sorry I haven't posted in a while but trying to take my time. I am not good at that. The weather has been awesome. I can't believe we don't have snow yet. You watch. I will get it fired up and we'll get a foot of snow that night. lol
#156
Today, I got the other downpipe wrapped and worked on filter placement. I found one of the spectres for $24 that was silver and black. I thought if I could get it to work then it would look nice in the engine bay. The filter was really well made. Not what I expected. Anyways, I got the drivers side done. I had to notch part of the headlight area but now it fits in there nice and will draw cool air from my high headlight beam. Remember, I removed the inner headlights and plan to put mesh in there to draw in cool air. I took a couple pictures from different angles. Hood still closes nicely.
#157
I started a couple threads to find some guidance as I get closer to the end. I followed the advice of several members and I think things are really turning out well. So far I really think I have a very simplified set up. It will be very easy to take apart if need be and put back together.
These first two pictures are of the down pipes and where they will connect to the exhaust. I used V band clamps and welded them on. The 90 degree bend with the V band will have the exhaust welded on to it. This way if I need to remove my down pipe I just have to unhook the clamp and drop the exhaust. Very simple. I tried to trim the pipe until I got it to where it would fit nice and snug and not in the way of any of the fuel lines etc....
The next two pictures are where I finished up the Silver Spectre air filters. I had to trim the inner headlight area to get a nice fit but I think it really turned out well. When I got done I was so satisfied with how it looked I went ahead and wiped down the engine bay area before these pictures. I think it is really looking good. If you notice, I also trimmed where the actual inner headlight goes. I tried to cut out as much as possible to draw in cool air to the filters. I plan to create a way to put a black mesh screen over the headlight holder.
Today marks 3 months ago that I started this build. My goal was to have it done in 3 months. I think I have done well and hope to have it started in just a few days. I have to get the car over to have the cage put in on Wednesday so I need to have it running by then. Hopefully, we can get the harness in and all the wiring done over the next few days.
These first two pictures are of the down pipes and where they will connect to the exhaust. I used V band clamps and welded them on. The 90 degree bend with the V band will have the exhaust welded on to it. This way if I need to remove my down pipe I just have to unhook the clamp and drop the exhaust. Very simple. I tried to trim the pipe until I got it to where it would fit nice and snug and not in the way of any of the fuel lines etc....
The next two pictures are where I finished up the Silver Spectre air filters. I had to trim the inner headlight area to get a nice fit but I think it really turned out well. When I got done I was so satisfied with how it looked I went ahead and wiped down the engine bay area before these pictures. I think it is really looking good. If you notice, I also trimmed where the actual inner headlight goes. I tried to cut out as much as possible to draw in cool air to the filters. I plan to create a way to put a black mesh screen over the headlight holder.
Today marks 3 months ago that I started this build. My goal was to have it done in 3 months. I think I have done well and hope to have it started in just a few days. I have to get the car over to have the cage put in on Wednesday so I need to have it running by then. Hopefully, we can get the harness in and all the wiring done over the next few days.
#158
The day has finally arrived. I finally got this thing fired up. An all nighter and I was losing my mind trying to trouble shoot all my issues to get this thing to run. I am the worst at wiring and definitely have NO experience with fuel injection or computer stuff. Scott (LSwagon) got some late phone calls last night as did my buddies, Jon and Skip. We finally got it to idle this morning. It will not do anything with the throttle but I think it is because I converted the harness to cable throttle but the computer is still set up for drive by wire. I was able to get the idle up enough to put the car in gear and drive it up on the trailer. It is now getting a cage put in to cert to 8.50.
There are lots of little things that still need to be done. Stupid things you don't think about. For example. When I tried to drive the car up, the steering wheel wouldn't turn. I had made room for the down pipe next to the steering shaft. However, when you turn the shaft it would hit the collar and the nut on there. I took the down pipe off and dinged it to turn. Still need to ding it a little more.
I want to thank all those who helped me. I did do most of this myself but I did have several friends who helped out one way or another. Jon (wiring) Paul (wiring harness) Possum (anything I needed) Bob D, 71 Chevy, Shawn, Jason (welding). Lots of advice and guidance from several on chevelles.com, LS1tech, and yellowbullet.
In the video, the tac is not hooked up. The car had run for a while and I let it cool back down so the oil pressure is only around 45. When you first fire it up it is around 65. I don't have the exhaust fully hooked up yet. Right now the down pipes just turn under by the firewall. I never noticed that my A1000 fuel pump was loud. Two of them is really load. You will hear it when the video goes to the rear of the car. I will have to put the pumps on some rubber grommets to quiet it down. Anyways, enjoy and I can't wait to go get this tuned on the dyno to drive.
Sinister 5.3 Twin Turbo - YouTube
There are lots of little things that still need to be done. Stupid things you don't think about. For example. When I tried to drive the car up, the steering wheel wouldn't turn. I had made room for the down pipe next to the steering shaft. However, when you turn the shaft it would hit the collar and the nut on there. I took the down pipe off and dinged it to turn. Still need to ding it a little more.
I want to thank all those who helped me. I did do most of this myself but I did have several friends who helped out one way or another. Jon (wiring) Paul (wiring harness) Possum (anything I needed) Bob D, 71 Chevy, Shawn, Jason (welding). Lots of advice and guidance from several on chevelles.com, LS1tech, and yellowbullet.
In the video, the tac is not hooked up. The car had run for a while and I let it cool back down so the oil pressure is only around 45. When you first fire it up it is around 65. I don't have the exhaust fully hooked up yet. Right now the down pipes just turn under by the firewall. I never noticed that my A1000 fuel pump was loud. Two of them is really load. You will hear it when the video goes to the rear of the car. I will have to put the pumps on some rubber grommets to quiet it down. Anyways, enjoy and I can't wait to go get this tuned on the dyno to drive.
Sinister 5.3 Twin Turbo - YouTube
#160
Thanks, I appreciate it. Also, don't know if I mentioned it but my tuner is crediting that first tune towards the dyno session. So he's going to dyno tune it for just a $100-150. I am expecting to that help a lot. I can't believe how quiet the car is and that is with open exhaust. It should be really quiet when I get the full exhaust with bullet mufflers on.