5.3 rod bolt questions...
5.3 rod bolt questions... Hello everyone,
I am in the starting stages of building a 5.3 single 78mm turboed 84 notch back mustang. My plan is fot the motor is stock bottom end and heads gmpp or edelbrok single plane intake and a 750 blow through carb. The bottom end is gettin a ls1 car oil pan. My quesetoins now are I plan on doing arp or kaltech rod bolts which do you prefer and eather a dif oil pump oir doin a bore.
with the rod bolts i went to get them today and i need to know if has large journals or small journals, how do i check to know what size journals it has?
and do i have to send my rods out to get the bolts put in.
what would you guys reccomend a better oil pump or get mine bored out for more flow??
this is my first ls style motor and turbo build so any help is appreciated.
I am in the starting stages of building a 5.3 single 78mm turboed 84 notch back mustang. My plan is fot the motor is stock bottom end and heads gmpp or edelbrok single plane intake and a 750 blow through carb. The bottom end is gettin a ls1 car oil pan. My quesetoins now are I plan on doing arp or kaltech rod bolts which do you prefer and eather a dif oil pump oir doin a bore.
with the rod bolts i went to get them today and i need to know if has large journals or small journals, how do i check to know what size journals it has?
and do i have to send my rods out to get the bolts put in.
what would you guys reccomend a better oil pump or get mine bored out for more flow??
this is my first ls style motor and turbo build so any help is appreciated.
It would be wise to have a machine shop replace the rod bolts with either of your choice. I prefer ARP....just my preference. The theory behind this is that when you replace the rod bolts the clamping force may be greater and distort the rod, so a machinst would be the one to check it for proper roundness and to fix it if it does distort it.
In respect to the oil pump, again your preference. I would strongly advise that if you seek or run a HV type pump or pressure that you make damn sure you have enough volume to keep it from sucking the pan dry. In short order run a higher volume pan. I really didn't want to comment on the oil pan due to the fact that I don't know what your system is going to require for the supply to the turbo etc. I know I just took a block to th shop the other day that was oil starved from an HV pump and it toasted the bearings.
In respect to the oil pump, again your preference. I would strongly advise that if you seek or run a HV type pump or pressure that you make damn sure you have enough volume to keep it from sucking the pan dry. In short order run a higher volume pan. I really didn't want to comment on the oil pan due to the fact that I don't know what your system is going to require for the supply to the turbo etc. I know I just took a block to th shop the other day that was oil starved from an HV pump and it toasted the bearings.
If u don't want to mess with resizing with the arp bolts u can alwasy get the katechs they are double the price of the arp but once u add in machining for the arp bolts your not far off in price
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 273
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my understanding is because the rods are fracture split powdered metal you do not need to resize them or check..
i put arp rod bolts in my motor, one rod at a time, torqued in steps and reassembled and have been running it for 2,000 miles so far, up to 15psi boost. and zero issues. no noise, good oil pressure, clean oil. stock bearings too..
i put arp rod bolts in my motor, one rod at a time, torqued in steps and reassembled and have been running it for 2,000 miles so far, up to 15psi boost. and zero issues. no noise, good oil pressure, clean oil. stock bearings too..
When i went to get rod bolts i was asked if the motor was a large or a small journal?? never herd that lookin for rod bolts.. how can i tell what it is the motor is a 2004 5.3 out of a tahoe if someone could send me a part numbr and see what they used would help
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Not sure what they were referring to, but they should KNOW what it is by year make and model....... I am thinking they are referring to cam shaft so that the rod bolts clear that......
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i think replacing rod bolts is one of those fad mods. yes, my 408 has arp bolts, but that's only because it was a fresh build. can anyone show lets say 5 stock rod bolt failures??? i would be more afraid of the springs letting go. i could easily find 10 threads on that in 10 minutes. i shattered a rod before the rod bolts gave out. that was on a 99 engine that suposedly has weaker rod bolts. spun it to 7000-7500 for 145,000+ miles i have NEVER seen a rod bolt failure on a 5.3. not to say it has never ever happened but if it's not broken dont fix it. spend the money on your transmission because it will be the part that breaks...
Txsilverado i am puttin a built turbo400 behind it and upgrading valve springs also i am wanting to see for myself what a budget 5.3 can do with oit doin a forged bottom end so i am tryin to keep things stockish.... thanks for all the info
