Another Rear mount build, but it was coming anyway :)
#341
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drill some holes, thread them, or cut holes and weld in bungs and set yourself up a differential pressure gauge, 0-5psi from the turbo outlet (point 1) to the outlet of the Intercooler (point 2) and see what you get on that gauge when you go WOT with your 4psi setting.
I'm getting about a .65psi drop throughout my entire system, and thats neglecting spring sway due to temperature. I would not think you would get greater than 1.5psi drop...but I could be wrong
I'm getting about a .65psi drop throughout my entire system, and thats neglecting spring sway due to temperature. I would not think you would get greater than 1.5psi drop...but I could be wrong
#343
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Congratulations on building boost. Keep an eye on your wideband until you get it fully tuned. You don't want to see it creep into the 12's.
Also, can you post a pic of how close you ran the charge pipe to the exahust under the car. And... did you wrap your exhaust or charge pipe. My previous builder had the pipes running within an inch of each other. The exhaust was heating my charge pipe so much I think that is why I wasn't getting good boost. Trying to compress hot air.
Just wondering if that might be related to your issues in building boost.
Also, can you post a pic of how close you ran the charge pipe to the exahust under the car. And... did you wrap your exhaust or charge pipe. My previous builder had the pipes running within an inch of each other. The exhaust was heating my charge pipe so much I think that is why I wasn't getting good boost. Trying to compress hot air.
Just wondering if that might be related to your issues in building boost.
#345
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Yeah, true. I'm just saying, it may be contributing some. Definitely not good either way. Not good for power and not good for IAT/detonation. Should be addressed. But I agree, I think it's just not turned up enough. Of course I've never used a manual boost controller, sooooo...
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#347
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ill have to look into the differential pressure system. i too am curious now what the pressure drop is from right off the compressor and right off the intercooler.
on a plus note, with a about a full turn in, i got 5psi this morning!! so its getting somwhere lol
still getting that "shuu shuu" sound in the back. not sure if thats the wastegate or the turbo but i think i might need to adjust the BOV a touch more.
As for the piping, ill have to take a pic tomorrow when the suns out. the exhaust side is wrapped all the way up to to the headers and then some as far as i could reach. ill have to see how hot the charge pipe gets next to the wrapped pipe. i can touch the wrapped pipe by hand after a highway run so the wrap is holding the heat in.
i got an appointment with the dyno shop tomorrow at noon so hope all goes well and i can post up some dyno numbers, info, and maybe a video lol
crossing my fingers.
now that i got 5psi on the street, i shuold be able to adjust the boost controller on the dyno to dial it in to 10ish. ill have the dyno guy tune it up to about 15pis just in case of boost spikes or creeps, but ill keep it to about 10-12psi.
unfortunatly, i wont be able to tune it with the water/meth. im gonna get a simple hobbs switch in place of that damn AEM controller. theres got to be a bad circuit or somthing in it and im tired of ******* with it. i know the water pump works, i tested it directly on the battery to make sure it pumps. did the same with the oil pump too to make sure i had the pump pumping in the right direction lol hence the giant electrical tape arrow on the side of it LOL but with the watermeth, at least ill be safer in higher bosot range later. when i get the tick cam ill have the car tuned with the watermeth to increase the effiency. but for now i just want my car tuned for boost damn it! lol
on a plus note, with a about a full turn in, i got 5psi this morning!! so its getting somwhere lol
still getting that "shuu shuu" sound in the back. not sure if thats the wastegate or the turbo but i think i might need to adjust the BOV a touch more.
As for the piping, ill have to take a pic tomorrow when the suns out. the exhaust side is wrapped all the way up to to the headers and then some as far as i could reach. ill have to see how hot the charge pipe gets next to the wrapped pipe. i can touch the wrapped pipe by hand after a highway run so the wrap is holding the heat in.
i got an appointment with the dyno shop tomorrow at noon so hope all goes well and i can post up some dyno numbers, info, and maybe a video lol
crossing my fingers.
now that i got 5psi on the street, i shuold be able to adjust the boost controller on the dyno to dial it in to 10ish. ill have the dyno guy tune it up to about 15pis just in case of boost spikes or creeps, but ill keep it to about 10-12psi.
unfortunatly, i wont be able to tune it with the water/meth. im gonna get a simple hobbs switch in place of that damn AEM controller. theres got to be a bad circuit or somthing in it and im tired of ******* with it. i know the water pump works, i tested it directly on the battery to make sure it pumps. did the same with the oil pump too to make sure i had the pump pumping in the right direction lol hence the giant electrical tape arrow on the side of it LOL but with the watermeth, at least ill be safer in higher bosot range later. when i get the tick cam ill have the car tuned with the watermeth to increase the effiency. but for now i just want my car tuned for boost damn it! lol
#348
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Yeah, true. I'm just saying, it may be contributing some. Definitely not good either way. Not good for power and not good for IAT/detonation. Should be addressed. But I agree, I think it's just not turned up enough. Of course I've never used a manual boost controller, sooooo... ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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#349
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uuuuugggggggggg................................... .............
so im still leaking from somwhere. a whole half a day pretty much wasted.
couldnt get past 5psi on the dyno
even had the boost controller all the way screwed in and actaully lost psi! :/
i think on one run with 3ish psi the dyno guy got 345RWHP, so its got potential just need to fix these damn leaks!
with all the leaks fixed i could get better numbers for sure and for sure more boost lol gonna get the cars exhaust smoke tested next week. freakin rediculous man...
so so far with a known psi level, got 345RWHP and the car huffin hard.
so im still leaking from somwhere. a whole half a day pretty much wasted.
couldnt get past 5psi on the dyno
even had the boost controller all the way screwed in and actaully lost psi! :/
i think on one run with 3ish psi the dyno guy got 345RWHP, so its got potential just need to fix these damn leaks!
with all the leaks fixed i could get better numbers for sure and for sure more boost lol gonna get the cars exhaust smoke tested next week. freakin rediculous man...
so so far with a known psi level, got 345RWHP and the car huffin hard.
#351
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im gonna have the exhaust tested first to make sure and then, if still im not making boost, then ill go that extreme and dissconnect the wastegate and see if the boost will go up then.
Ive got to be hemoraging boost somewhere on the exhaust side when its getting into boost.
the dyno guy and i actually started to notice that the typical turbine noise ascociated with rear turbo isnt there. i hardly hear the whine
Ive got to be hemoraging boost somewhere on the exhaust side when its getting into boost.
the dyno guy and i actually started to notice that the typical turbine noise ascociated with rear turbo isnt there. i hardly hear the whine
#352
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well while sitting around at the house, i decided to do a nut and bolt check on anything and everything that ever was upgraded or touched related to intake or exhaust.
Although i dont know how much it would really effect it, the intake manifold bolts where easy to tighten, although they really dont get torqued down that much anyway. but i gave them a once over and snugged them down. i didnt crank on them since i know they only require like less then 30ftlb but with boost anythings possible.
Then i tightened the EGR block off plates. not that they were loose but they took a little more tightening so i made sure they were tight.
next, i tighten quite a few of the header bolts. i even found on one spark plug boot had some soot on it. obviously it had some leaking coming out im sure. i again didnt crank on these bolts either, but enough until they stopped turning.
also tighten the wastegate flange a bit. had some soot on the bolt so there was another slight leak im assuming.
also checked all the spark plugs to make sure they were tight. although i need to switch from TR6 to 7 series plugs, i just needed to make sure they are in there. i had loose plugs before that totally killed power. was like i was driving a sunfire with 2 cyclinders.
Then i proceeded to the charge pipeing. Apparently when they took the car off the lift, they scrapped one of the clamps off a coupler.fixed that today. also replaced a clamp.
Also made sure the turbo spins easily. its does. not shaft play or anything. althouhh i has some residue form when oil was coming in the compressor, it didnt have any oil coming out thouh. wiped it clean just in case. turn the car on and the turbo spinns freely in idle and spins for a good second after you give it some gas. revved it to 3500rpm and then wen to take a look at the turbo and it was spinnign pretty good and then slowed to idle speed. pretty good spin though. nothing scraping and nothing in the fins
Then i went to the exhaust side. sprayed all the seems, but didnt get anthing bubbles. HOWEVER!! i did have water coming out of the exhaust pipe so i know i got a leak somwhere. im thinking the exhaust was sucking in the water and then ejecting it out the end. Im thinking certain parts are still leak on the top section by the cats.
so i did find a few leaking spots i could fix, but im taking it to get fixed at an exhaust shop next week friday. im also thinking of just having the cats removed and replace them with the resonators like i was thinking in the first place. after i get everything welded up, gonna wrap everything again on any other bare metal that i didnt get the first time.
Although i dont know how much it would really effect it, the intake manifold bolts where easy to tighten, although they really dont get torqued down that much anyway. but i gave them a once over and snugged them down. i didnt crank on them since i know they only require like less then 30ftlb but with boost anythings possible.
Then i tightened the EGR block off plates. not that they were loose but they took a little more tightening so i made sure they were tight.
next, i tighten quite a few of the header bolts. i even found on one spark plug boot had some soot on it. obviously it had some leaking coming out im sure. i again didnt crank on these bolts either, but enough until they stopped turning.
also tighten the wastegate flange a bit. had some soot on the bolt so there was another slight leak im assuming.
also checked all the spark plugs to make sure they were tight. although i need to switch from TR6 to 7 series plugs, i just needed to make sure they are in there. i had loose plugs before that totally killed power. was like i was driving a sunfire with 2 cyclinders.
Then i proceeded to the charge pipeing. Apparently when they took the car off the lift, they scrapped one of the clamps off a coupler.fixed that today. also replaced a clamp.
Also made sure the turbo spins easily. its does. not shaft play or anything. althouhh i has some residue form when oil was coming in the compressor, it didnt have any oil coming out thouh. wiped it clean just in case. turn the car on and the turbo spinns freely in idle and spins for a good second after you give it some gas. revved it to 3500rpm and then wen to take a look at the turbo and it was spinnign pretty good and then slowed to idle speed. pretty good spin though. nothing scraping and nothing in the fins
Then i went to the exhaust side. sprayed all the seems, but didnt get anthing bubbles. HOWEVER!! i did have water coming out of the exhaust pipe so i know i got a leak somwhere. im thinking the exhaust was sucking in the water and then ejecting it out the end. Im thinking certain parts are still leak on the top section by the cats.
so i did find a few leaking spots i could fix, but im taking it to get fixed at an exhaust shop next week friday. im also thinking of just having the cats removed and replace them with the resonators like i was thinking in the first place. after i get everything welded up, gonna wrap everything again on any other bare metal that i didnt get the first time.
#354
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i looked at those too. all nice and tight. they have the same orings as the stockers. got the 60lbs injectors from another member. I also sprayed aroudn those. ive heard about those possibling leaking. nothing there.
#355
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If I were a bettin man (I do live in Vegas, haha), I'd say the problem is on the hotside (possibly the wastegate).
Also, side note on mine... I upped my spring pressure in the wastegate this weekend. Pushing about 14 psi now. Took it out last night and did some street tuning on it with my tuner. We have a dyno day on Saturday, hoping for some good numbers. Will let you know.
Good luck with finding the leak. Pressure test the hotside when you get your leak detector. (Where'd you get the boost leak detector?)
Also, side note on mine... I upped my spring pressure in the wastegate this weekend. Pushing about 14 psi now. Took it out last night and did some street tuning on it with my tuner. We have a dyno day on Saturday, hoping for some good numbers. Will let you know.
Good luck with finding the leak. Pressure test the hotside when you get your leak detector. (Where'd you get the boost leak detector?)
#356
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nice, thats kinda what im looking for. as close to 500RWHP as i can. i know it will be hard to get that number on a dyno with a stalled automatic, but if i can get 490RWHP that definitly means i got over 500HP in the engine
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#357
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Yup. We're definitely over the 500 hp mark on engine. The only thing that bothers me about it is that I make peak hp at like 5200 rpm. Pretty low, given I shift at 6k. It's a little noticeable too, like when going down the track, I feel the power drop off just before the shift and at the tail end of the track. I wonder if either the turbine is too small, or if I need to go with a different cam. In the mean time, I think I'm going to have my tuner adjust the shift points to shift at 5700 instead of 6000. Strange...but this was my goal with the car (daily driver). Rest of my attention now will be on the 72 build.
#358
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i think thats about were my shift points are. i think frost had it set at 5800. which is fine for me since i still have the stock valvetrane and cam in there anyway. when i get a larger cam and springs in there, ill have it set to about 6200. dont need to spin it to the moon when most of the time im on the street anyway.
#360
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I'm actually considering having my tuner lower my shift points to 5500, even though I've got the upgraded springs and LS9 cam. Power drops off dramatically after 5500 for me, so no sense in spinning to 6k with lower power. Would like it to shift just a little after peak hp and get ramping up the curve again.