JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

lol i was actually looking at one of those. was considering getting one since it was alittle bigger then what i have. ill stick with the 44mm until i experience any boost creep. of course i gotta get boost first LOL
im gonna see if wyntomn has a 15lbs spring that will work with my 4lbs spring. see if 19lbs or spring pressure can help get me close to 10PSI and then have a MBC to get me to 12psi.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

You should be able to run the lightest spring possible with a boost controller. On my 66mm precision I run the the 6lb spring. Just end this ridiculousness and get a good wastegate.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

looking into that too. im looking at getting a 45mm turbosmart wastegate. i like the cap design.
what im not geting though is that even with the "good" wastegates what spring pressures are people running initially? even with a name brand wastegate im sure id still see the wastegate being pushed open at idle with a weak spring. some starting spring pressures would be nice to know.

HRHohio

My problem is, I just can't see spending $500 on a spring loaded valve (Precision)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Turbo-66mm-Wastegate-WG-V-band-External-PW66-/300625414637?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item45feabc9ed&vxp=mtr
when I can spend <$100 on a spring loaded valve.

60mm Wastegate with springs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/External-POLISHED-Turbo-60mm-Wastegate-SILVER-V-BAND-POLISHED-/300846575415?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460bda6f37&vxp=mtr
My mind tells me that if the wastegate fails, it will fail to HOLD boost. The only possible way to fail the other way is for the spring to suddenly become stronger. Can't justify the cost in my mind. Sorry, I'd rather put that extra $400 towards an electronic Boost Controller, or back in my pockets. But hey... that's just me. lol

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

gotta agree on that one. on top of that, ive heard of failures with all wastegates. name brand and ebay cheapos. the only difference is the warrenty really thats comes with the big name brands. but your still out a wastegate for awhile and half the time, they just try to rebuild the old one. so your not really getting anything new after it fails.
now the plus side of rearmounts is the reduced amount of heat so the valve wont fail as soon.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

Nobody ever said building a turbo car was cheap. That's where most people go wrong. A wastegate can stick, not hold boost suck as the current situation, or many other things. But another cheap one and tell us how that goes. Op, just save yourself the time and effort, you have put a lot of time into this and I hate seeing you disappointed again.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

im saving up for a turbosmart wastegate. i figure a slightly larger wastegate can be a benefit and i can see if the name brand wastegate can be marked off the list of crap thats causing issues.
ANd no, forced induction is not cheap. especially tuning. whats crazy is if you add up all the other odds and ends, they can become almost as expensive as the major components.

but for the timing being i found a larger spring that will fit inside this wastegate. i took the wastegate off the car and inspected it. looks like a chunk of somthing got caught between the flange and the fire ring seat and kept it from sealing completly. im thinking a small welding speck got caught after i got welding done. although im sure it still wasnt staying shut im I still put a larger spring im thinking was rated at 10lbs. it was alittle too tall compared to the smaller 10lbe spring so i cut about a coil and a half off. probly about 8ish lbs now. but it definitly requires alot more pressure to force open the valve now. im guessing its about 18ish lbs worth of spring in there. the cut side is up against the cap so the un cut side sits flush with the valve grooves.

I also pressure tested the charge side and found a leak behind the intake manifold. one was the little plasitc tube that goes into the back. i capped it for now.
im thinking the MAP is also leaking but i cant see for sure. imthinking of making an adaptor for the MAP sensor so i dont have to worry about it leaking back there.
also tightened up some existing vacuum hoses to make sure.
I also put the PCV valve before the catch can and then put an actually check valve after it between the valley cover and the intake manifold port on the side

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

lol you know what ive often wondered about this, how does a wastegate fail and cause overboosting by not opening? id figure the only way it could stay shut is if the valve rust shut or a boost controller got too out of hand and kept it shut. but with jsut spring pressure, it can only open and cause reduced boost pressures. not really a catastrophic engine failure that everyone seems to claim. ive heard more engine destruction from poor tuning or greedy operators with poor prep and too much boost.

HRHohio

My thoughts exactly. I've heard of wastegates failing, but generally it's been a lack of boost and not the other way around. I figure the odds are 1 in a million of that happening... AND the cause of that happening is irrelevant to what brand wastegate it happens to. If a piece of carbon grabs the valve and keeps it shut, it's gonna happen, regardless of what brand is on it.

Just be careful on your first few pulls with the new springs in. Keep an eye on your boost pressure until you know how much you will make.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

To each his own. I have had zero problems out of my gate.

Slow94Formula

iTrader: (18)

How are the vacuum lines run to the gate? Is it seeing vacuum somehow and pulling the gate open? I do agree with Cam72aro on getting a brand name gate, but I can't imagine that it's just the gate causing the issue. Also, if anything, going bigger is going to make a bigger hole for the exhaust to escape through and add to the problem.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

ill be watching my boost gauge very closly at first since im not sure what boost pressure ill be at now. hoping it evens it out to about 8-10psi so i can fine tune it to about 12PSI with a boost contoller.

THe wategate is referenced from the compressor outlet for now. i did have it at the manifold but then i was running into issures so i i shorten the line to the compressor so that its one less thing to wonder about. I did have a MBC on it too but then it "fell off" lol so its just spring regulated for now. i will be getting another to fine tune the boost later.

On a plus note i got rid of that retarded AEM water/meth contoller and just have a simple boost pressure switch set at 7psi. The wiring was SOOO much easier to hook up; Positive, ground, and boost reference port... SIMPLE. ya ya, progression controller...not using this as a fuel adder but as a cooler. ill get a snow performance later. have the nozzle before the iAT sensor. figure anything over 8psi will like some cooling effect in these hot el paso summer days. we already had a 99degree day yesterday AT least my tune can only get richer and cooler at any other area when i leave el paso. The elevation and heat SUCK lol

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

Which side of the wastegate do you have the reference going to? Top, or bottom?

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

wastegate is referenced from the bottom port. top port is open to atmosphere.

Alex553

Almost ready to line up with a boosted six?

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

lol yup! lol im thinking of going to the track this frisday just to see what i can do even with my car in limp mode lol also curious if the extra mph and load on the engine will net me any difference in boost pressure.
Still got leaks around the resonators. is it that hard to weld? REALLY?! god i wish i could afford my own miller machine so i can just do it myself. i can hear them while driving still. gonna try and hav ethem patched up AGAIN tomorrow.
at least the first repair job has my wideband reading more accurate AFR. its not in the 16s anymore.

hopefully i can get this damn exhaust fixed. tired of people not doing their job.

Alex553

Awesome!
I've never been to the track here lol

You should go to another welding shop that is ridiculous

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

im about to if he doesnt fix it this time around. right now im going to the one on Dyer right off Post, and he usually does a good job and his prices are reasonable but for some reason hes just not getting these leaks this time around

HRHohio

I had an issue with my exhaust welder guy. He kept leaving holes at the tops of the welds, near the body, out of sight. I eventually read about people putting a small bit of steel reinforced epoxy stick/putty (JB Weld High Heat at Autozone) over the welds just to plug the holes. Guess what. It works! HA. I did ALL my welds, all the way around. It's a redneck as it gets, but hey, when it works, why fight it. Just an idea. Cost me $10 and one time under the car. Has held ever since, good up to like 450F continuous and 500F intermittent. As long as you're just plugging tiny holes and not using it for structural needs. But if you have a 95% weld, the weld should be strong enough to handle the structural needs.

Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2OZ-High-Heat-Putty-8297-J-B-Weld-/151052910752?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232b7480a0

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

yeah, i might end up doing that if he doesnt fix these leaks today. i also plan on wrapping those spots a few extra times to help seal it alittle more. hopefully this wil be the last time i have to mess with the wrappings lol got another 100ft roll to play with and some bare spots to cover still.