HRHohio

Sounds Promising! Good for you! 7psi feels pretty good, huh! Hahaha.

flsupraguy

Great thread!

Where did you get the "Sts style T4 header pipe with 44mm wastegate port"?

Thanks.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

Got it done by an ebay member. Ill PM ya the info for it. he did a good job. I had the flanges welded on by a shop but the header was made and sent to me.

GOT 8 PSI today in the blazing texas heat today!! so its boosting.
I also figured out what that heavy fueling issue was. The old IAT sensor plug kept poping off the sensor. It was old. the "tang" that hold it on the sensor was missing so the vibration kept letting it fall off. so the engine wasn't seeing temps so it was going into safe mode at WOT and over fueling. So a brand new sensor and grommet in and VIOLA!! got full boost at 8psi. Not sure if that my max yet since I was on the street but I got to 8psi before 60mph

So I think I got my boost leak issues fixed. im thinking another fine tune on the dyno and some number are in orders.

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

I would turn the boost up and shoot for 600-650hp. Then leave it there.

HRHohio

^^ This... I agree.
I've been chicken and holding it at 10 psi... hahaha. But I think I can get to 12psi safely. I'm worried about my trans now. (Next project for me lol).

flsupraguy

Thanks!

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

That's kinda the goal lol Im gonna try and get 12psi and hope I get 600ish out of it. ive done some calculations and from my base HP numbers of 301RWHP, 15psi theoretically would give me 608hp. now im no dyno hp savy person but that would be awesome lol however, in reality, id be happy with 500hp if that's all I could get out of 14psi lol but I think ill have it tuned for 14 and then turn it down to 12 for "safety" until I get my cam and the 317 heads in there, ill play it safe.

Total chicken here too lol gonna get mine to 12psi and leave it there lol as for the trans, im looking at getting a bigger cooler since I think the extra texas heat and extra power making the trans heat up

No prob, here to help and learn lol



oh and congratz to me for learning how to use the multi quote function lol

HRHohio

Yes, definitely go with a separate trans coooler. My radiator was hurting more than helping. Haven't checked the trans temp yet this year.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

I already have an external B&M. forgot what size but its not the largest but its a decent size. it fits in front of the radiator. i do have the trans temp sensor in the diagnostic port so i think the temps there are a tad higher there then in the actual pan, but im seeing 185ish pretty consistently on the temp gauge.

not sure if i should separate the cooler form the factory main, but ive only seen these temps that high in texas. its freakin hot here in el paso right now. we saw 105 today

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

You want to see what the fluid temperature in the pan is. Ideally around 180-190 is the highest you want to see.

HRHohio

Yup I disconnected mine from the factory main (Radiator). I ran them together for a while, but when I disconnected it, it helped a LOT!

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

yeah, for ease of installation i used the diagnostic port. later when i do a fluid change on it and a new filter, ill tap the pan for a 1/8 NPT port so i can get a more accurate reading.

i wondering if i should go this route.

HRHohio

Try bypassing the radiator before you go out and buy a new trans cooler. You'll be surprised as to how much it will help. I don't even have a helper fan on mine, just passive, and it was better than running it through the rad+cooler.

HRHohio

For Reference:
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/auto-trans-faq

From Answer#1: "This allows the transmission to have its own cooling system and doesn't allow the engine water temperature to heat the fluid."
From Answer#3: "again staying away from the factory radiator cooler lines."

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

id imagine this is for those of us that are in hotter regions. if you are from a colder region like up north, then keep it hooked up for cold starts. im thinking I might take the stock trans cooler out of the circuit and have the external take over.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

so the cars boost 8psi consistently! car feels AMAZING!!! lol

on a none turbo note, got my new driver side power lock mechanism. havnt been able to lock my driver door over the past year and my security indicator has come on e once. Car wonldnt start once :/ need a new key fob too since I broke mine last week. stupid little things. if it isn't one thing its another lol but at least the turbo works now lol now to get the cosmetic stuff taken care of.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

installed the new powerlock. car finally locks when i push the power lock button

HRHohio

My security light came on and left me stuck a few times. You might think about doing the resistor bypass mod before you get completely stranded sometime. I had a friend of mine (Service Manager for Cadillac) solder in a resistor in my previous camaro and my current one. He said if the wire wears completely out, YOU WILL REGRET it. He did it in his home garage... took about an hour and haven't had an issue since.

Link... if you've never heard of it. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...how-video.html

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

never heard of it but have heard of VATs being a problem sometimes. ive been wondering if I should have my key replaced for awhile

HRHohio

The issue is not with the key. The issue is that the design of the wiring from the ignition to the VATS runs in the steering column. The wiring bends every time you turn a corner. For some reason, our cars are prone to wearing that wire out in a certain spot. When that happens, the first sign is Security light (because the resistance is different on the thinner wire... I think). Eventually, the wire breaks from the back and forth bending. When that happens, you have to get towed and either replace the whole ign switch or solder in a resistor and bypass the ign wire to the key. Better to do it now than get stuck and have to do it later. Mine left me stuck after work 3 times before I was made aware of this issue. That was on my first car (2000 V-6). When it happened the first time on this one, I had it taken care of right away.

Another 2 threads that may be helpful to you: https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...de-please.html
What resistor do I need?: http://www.vatskey.com/vats/lostvatskey.htm

Glad you've got BOOST! LOL Congratulations!