Another Rear mount build, but it was coming anyway :)
12-12-2012, 01:31 PM
#101
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ah, it was just a thought lol, yeah ill keep it as a back just in case.
for now though im just trying to get the system together then up and running.
just trying to figure out where to wire it in. From what i understand im running it like this,
i understand its a fuel pump but same idea, other then its running oil instead of fuel.
wire with fuse ran from +battery to relay, relay has powered switch from original fuel pump + wire that is now not drawing power since its on the Racetronics pump, relay is grounded, and pump is grounded. Sounds about right?
for now though im just trying to get the system together then up and running.
just trying to figure out where to wire it in. From what i understand im running it like this,
i understand its a fuel pump but same idea, other then its running oil instead of fuel.
wire with fuse ran from +battery to relay, relay has powered switch from original fuel pump + wire that is now not drawing power since its on the Racetronics pump, relay is grounded, and pump is grounded. Sounds about right?
12-12-2012, 04:21 PM
#102
TECH Resident
This looks exactly right. My scavenger pump is also keyed to turn on with the fuel pump (via relay). When the fuel pump is running, the scavenger pump is running. Same as what you show.
Looks like you're getting there.
Sweet!
Looks like you're getting there.
Sweet!
12-12-2012, 10:20 PM
#103
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sweet, glad i guessed right lol i was thinking this is the right way, but im alittle rusty on relay operations so i needed alittle help lol
now just to get it done now lol god im tire of not having time to work on my car lol stupid work and school lol
now just to get it done now lol god im tire of not having time to work on my car lol stupid work and school lol
12-14-2012, 12:31 AM
#104
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well, got the a aeromotive 13109 FPR and a EMUSA FP gauge to get it going. SO once it gets in, ill install everything and be one step closer to having the birdy ready for boost.
got the fuel side covered with 60lbs injectors, boost referenced FPR, ractronix Fuel pump and wire kit, and a return line kit.
got the oil side covered with a gear scavange pump, 4an feed, 10an drain, feed check vavle, hobbs switch for a warning indicator, a 45/64 drill and 1/2" NPT tap for oil pan draining, oil catch can, LS6 valley cover, ls6 Pcv routing, pcv check vavle, will be getting oil pressure guage for rear oil pressure
just need an intercooler and some cold piping. got a 60' 2.5" aluminum pipe for the "long strech" lol from front to rear or vise versa
its coming together one piece at a time lol
got the fuel side covered with 60lbs injectors, boost referenced FPR, ractronix Fuel pump and wire kit, and a return line kit.
got the oil side covered with a gear scavange pump, 4an feed, 10an drain, feed check vavle, hobbs switch for a warning indicator, a 45/64 drill and 1/2" NPT tap for oil pan draining, oil catch can, LS6 valley cover, ls6 Pcv routing, pcv check vavle, will be getting oil pressure guage for rear oil pressure
just need an intercooler and some cold piping. got a 60' 2.5" aluminum pipe for the "long strech" lol from front to rear or vise versa
its coming together one piece at a time lol
12-14-2012, 07:54 PM
#105
12-17-2012, 04:10 PM
#109
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you and me both lol
on another none turbo related install,
I got my 315s on, had to grind the bump stops down a bit. need to replace the old worn out ones lol Did slight BFHing but nothing crazy. I have deadblow hammers that dont tear up the metal as much as sledges do. also makes for controling the metal bending better. Alittle undercoat spray and all done! got 17x9.5 and 17x11 black ZR1s on. Im very happy witht he 315s. I got about an inch of clearance between the tire and the bump stop, so no worrys here. Just got some sumitomos on it for now on the backs and something else on the front. Got the rims cheap form a guy junking a C4 convertable that shoud not have been. Traded some 18" BMW rims for it. The BMWs were too narrow.. 225s lol but looked good from the side lol
Also finally had my missing cracked dash pad replaced with a new one i got for a steal on ebay lol got it got for $65!! freakin awsome!
Also replaced my broken fog light switch holder. pretty simple install lol
on a sad note, i finally joined the ranks of failing headlight gears lol got the "grind" going on the drivers side head like.
on another none turbo related install,
I got my 315s on, had to grind the bump stops down a bit. need to replace the old worn out ones lol Did slight BFHing but nothing crazy. I have deadblow hammers that dont tear up the metal as much as sledges do. also makes for controling the metal bending better. Alittle undercoat spray and all done! got 17x9.5 and 17x11 black ZR1s on. Im very happy witht he 315s. I got about an inch of clearance between the tire and the bump stop, so no worrys here. Just got some sumitomos on it for now on the backs and something else on the front. Got the rims cheap form a guy junking a C4 convertable that shoud not have been. Traded some 18" BMW rims for it. The BMWs were too narrow.. 225s lol but looked good from the side lol
Also finally had my missing cracked dash pad replaced with a new one i got for a steal on ebay lol got it got for $65!! freakin awsome!
Also replaced my broken fog light switch holder. pretty simple install lol
on a sad note, i finally joined the ranks of failing headlight gears lol got the "grind" going on the drivers side head like.
12-17-2012, 05:53 PM
#110
My Zr1's came from oe wheels with sumitomos on them and they arent bad at all making the power I do. How much back spacing do your wheels have on the rear. I have the 17x11 zr1's and had to totally remove the stops to clear. BFH mod was a given but I thought the stops only had to be trimmed a lil, wrong in my case. I also have the factory pan hard bar in the rear though.
12-17-2012, 07:17 PM
#111
TECH Resident
That sucks. I remember reading this a while back. Found it again for you.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/
Order form on the bottom.
(Funny Side Note... My licence plate is BAD Z28 !!! Hahaha) No, I don't own the website, unfortunately!)
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/
Order form on the bottom.
(Funny Side Note... My licence plate is BAD Z28 !!! Hahaha) No, I don't own the website, unfortunately!)
12-17-2012, 08:51 PM
#112
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My Zr1's came from oe wheels with sumitomos on them and they arent bad at all making the power I do. How much back spacing do your wheels have on the rear. I have the 17x11 zr1's and had to totally remove the stops to clear. BFH mod was a given but I thought the stops only had to be trimmed a lil, wrong in my case. I also have the factory pan hard bar in the rear though.
on the stops i had to grind one side where the bolt thread thru almost all the way to the hole lol, and then i cut that little lip that dips down and grinded flush agains the flat part of the bumpstop mounting part. i have damn near the whole thing still there other then where i grinded down. wheels sit nice and flush. Ill post some pics up tomorrow on how it looks
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 12-17-2012 at 09:00 PM.
12-17-2012, 08:53 PM
#113
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That sucks. I remember reading this a while back. Found it again for you.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/
Order form on the bottom.
(Funny Side Note... My licence plate is BAD Z28 !!! Hahaha) No, I don't own the website, unfortunately!)
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/
Order form on the bottom.
(Funny Side Note... My licence plate is BAD Z28 !!! Hahaha) No, I don't own the website, unfortunately!)
im gonna get some brass gears and call it a day.
12-17-2012, 11:17 PM
#114
TECH Resident
Oh, BTW, Rumor has it that Nitto 315's will fit on stock 17in rims without BFH mod needed. They grip like crazy too. (I run Nitto NTO5Rs on back). Plus they last much longer than MT's or M&H tires.
12-22-2012, 12:21 PM
#115
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welp, ordered a 4psi hobb switch normally open and a piezo buzzer for oil pump failure alert. Gonna have it plumbed into the inlet side of the scavange pump. Got a 10an coupler with a 1/8 npt port to thread the hobb switch in. So now i have my oil system completely planned out and covered. Also got my 45/65 drill bit and 1/2" NPT tap in the mail this week so i can tap the oil pan and have a 10an right into it.
its coming all together slowly. found a 31" EMUSA intercooler too. so close yet so far away lol
its coming all together slowly. found a 31" EMUSA intercooler too. so close yet so far away lol
12-25-2012, 07:23 PM
#117
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welp, finally got the reest of the cold piping. gonna run it under the car to get it started, but eventually will try a more custom route. i also will not be doing the stupid run around in circle route that STS does on the intercooler setup.
Also got my Aeromotive FPR in yesterday. All i need is the 6an straight oring to 6 an fitting and i can hook up the whole thing up, so close to install.
Im wondering though if i should get a 4psi wastegate spring to safely get started. just a start. better to take baby steps.
Also got my Aeromotive FPR in yesterday. All i need is the 6an straight oring to 6 an fitting and i can hook up the whole thing up, so close to install.
Im wondering though if i should get a 4psi wastegate spring to safely get started. just a start. better to take baby steps.
12-26-2012, 05:10 PM
#119
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got a few pics to share for updates
my oil pump and fitting with 1/8 port for the hobbs swith that will be used.
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with guage, various AN fittings, and 3/8 hardline to run back for returning fuel. got an adaptor fitting to fit it into the stock return line and waiting on a block off plug to fit into the T-block. Not a NPT but an actual oring fitting that will plug properly and will not strip out the thread that alot of people seem to swear by, even though ive never heard of it myself.
my oil pump and fitting with 1/8 port for the hobbs swith that will be used.
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with guage, various AN fittings, and 3/8 hardline to run back for returning fuel. got an adaptor fitting to fit it into the stock return line and waiting on a block off plug to fit into the T-block. Not a NPT but an actual oring fitting that will plug properly and will not strip out the thread that alot of people seem to swear by, even though ive never heard of it myself.
